Hahndorf Hill wines
The stories of two brave winemakers breaking into the world of fine wine reveal an unexpected connection: the Austrian grape variety grüner veltliner.
The world of fine wine moves to the beat of its own drum, while that of commercial wine fits easily into the rules of FMCG – fast moving consumer goods. It is a hunting ground for auditors, ever on the lookout for slow-moving stock. Fine wine does not fit easily into this paradigm; agreements are often unwritten and may involve multiple generations. If a business is in its infancy, financial decisions may be inspired or ruinous. The stories of two brave individuals touch on this, along with an unexpected connection that has played a role in key decisions of each: the Austrian grape variety grüner veltliner.
The first story concerns Larry Jacobs, a permanent resident and co-founder of Hahndorf Hill in the Adelaide Hills, and formerly of the very successful Mulderbosch Vineyards in South Africa.
Since establishing Hahndorf Hill in 2002, he has imported six clones of grüner veltliner, two clones of St Laurent, and another Austrian red variety, blaufrankisch. Seven years ago, Jacobs planted, cheek by jowl, a field blend of 12 varieties, harslevelu in top place with 18% of the total plantings, muscadelle last with 2%. The other 10 varieties were pinot blanc, welschriesling, riesling, savagnin, grüner veltliner, chenin blanc, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, muscat blanc and gewürztraminer, all fermented together.
The second story is about Bert Salomon, the eighth generation owner of Salomon Undhof, a 231-year-old Austrian family business. Brother Erich was the winemaker, younger brother Bert working for Schlumberger, a marketing and distribution giant, introducing Penfolds into the Austrian market in 1988. In 1995-2002 he became head of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board; Australia had become a home away from home. When Erich died suddenly in 2007, Bert became winemaker in both countries, for he had established Salomon Estate in the Southern Fleurieu in 1997.
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2022 Hahndorf Hill White Mischief Adelaide Hills Grüner Veltliner
Hand-picked, chilled 24 hours, free run juice separately fermented. Tropical fruits play a role in the complex, gently honeyed flavours, juicy acidity just when and where it’s needed.
13.5% alc, screwcap
94 points, drink to 2032, $25
2019 Salomon Undhof Ried Lindberg 1ER Otw Grüner Veltliner
80yo vines face south and south-east on hard gneiss bedrock covered with calcareous, sandy loess soil. Exceptionally fine and balanced, it’s only on the finish and aftertaste that the power of the variety is displayed, led by white pepper (and some luscious stone fruits).
14.5% alc; cork. Available in Australia via buzzwine.com
95 points, drink to 2038; $110
2022 Hahndorf Hill Brother Nature Adelaide Hills Field Blend
It took seven years for Hahndorf Hill’s field blend to produce its commercial release. The key is what Larry Jacobs describes as “the luminous natural acidity” of the blend; its perfume floating airly out of the glass, and the palate’s cleansing acidity, calls for the second glass.
12% alc, screwcap
94 points, drinks to 2032, $39