Dappled Wines proves fault-free natural wines do exist
They show it is possible to make high-quality wines with minimal interference in the natural process of fermentation, a world away from the usual do nothing, fault-ridden natural wines.
Winemaker Shaun Crinion opens the Dappled Wines website with: “I started Dappled in 2009 with a view to make high-quality, unadulterated wines from special patches of dirt at realistic prices. I make these wines first and foremost for my family and friends, so a hand-crafted, minimal intervention philosophy just makes perfect sense to me.”
The story really began in 1999 on a surfing odyssey to California, and the need to earn enough to subsist. Back home, Crinion had an uncle who was a winemaker working in a Central Coast winery. With this background, it didn’t take Crinion long to realise this was to shape his life, way beyond a simple need to work enough to keep body and soul together. He began to work vintages in a veritable who’s who of small to medium wineries in both hemispheres. The dust settled for Crinion in the Yarra Valley in 2007 with employment at Domaine Chandon. By 2009 he was ready to establish his own part-time winery. More importantly, he had met partner Catherine Avilov months before moving to Wagga Wagga to commence his formal training, later becoming part house-husband as two daughters arrived.
The label designs of Dappled are as beautiful as any I have seen, encapsulating the calm retreats of corners of the Yarra Valley. Catherine and Shaun’s daughters are nine and 12 now, “finally old enough to help with the odd bottling and picking,” Catherine says.
The wines? They show it is possible to make high-quality wines with minimal interference in the natural process of fermentation, but maximum attention to detail, a world away from the usual do nothing, fault-ridden natural wines. Shaun has the last word: “My wines are very close to my heart, profit is certainly not my first priority, and I find myself extremely lucky to be making wine and liken it to being an artist, happy in being poor.”
2022 Dappled Limited Release Tradition Yarra Valley Cabernets
Sourced from cabernet sauvignon grown by Simon Peirce on his Steels Creek Vineyard planted in 1981. The inclusion of 20% whole bunches (and 5% cabernet franc) creates a fragrant symbiotic blend of velvety cassis, cigar box and ripe tannins; the wine with length, balance and depth.
97 points, drink to 2054, 13% alcohol, diam, $38
2022 Dappled Sur La CrÊte Single Vineyard Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay
The non-interventionist book of rules has been followed, and it’s a wine with instant appeal, full of pink and white grapefruit and white peach. It has excellent length, hints of cashew and almond adding to that length – and appeal.
96 points, drink to 2034, 13.5% alcohol, screwcap, $55
2022 Dappled Appellation Yarra Valley Chardonnay
From sites across the Valley. It’s opulently powerful and layered, and breaks all vinification conventions with its do-nothing credo: next to no SO2, no temperature control, wild ferment, no batonnage, mlf not encouraged, not fined, not faulty.
95 points, drink to 2034, 13% alcohol, screwcap, $38
To join the conversation, please log in. Don't have an account? Register
Join the conversation, you are commenting as Logout