The making of Koomilya McLaren Vale wines
Three of the best shiraz from Koomilya McLaren Vale.
Steve Pannell has always thrown himself in at the deep end. His darting eyes and rapid speech are the signs of a prodigious intellect fired with unquenchable optimism. Since 1990 Pannell has made wine in Burgundy, Bordeaux, Italy and Spain, while at home he rose from winemaker-manager at Hardys Tintara winery (1994-’99) to group red winemaker at BRL Hardy Wine Company (1999-’03), both in McLaren Vale. His crowning domestic achievements, unequalled by any other winemaker, have been winning the Jimmy Watson Trophy twice, the Max Schubert Trophy at the Adelaide Wine Show, and the Bushing King Trophy for best red wine four times (2011, ’15, ’16 and ’18).
It’s ironic that some of Pannell’s successes were a reflection of his use of new French oak – lots and lots of it. He was well aware of the trap that he set for himself: seductive wines that looked great at night, but not so the following morning. It was cynical winemaking that he privately abhorred, and has long since been mentally thrown in the trash can.
In 2015 Steve and his wife Fiona purchased Koomilya, a near mystical part of McLaren Vale’s Upper Tintara district that is revered by those who have worked with its shiraz. The move was a clear signal of his change of approach, and much time and expense has been poured into the rejuvenation of the vines and encircling native bush. Koomilya is split into three contiguous blocks, each vinified separately, but sharing some aspects with one or both of the other two blocks. The common bonds are wild yeast fermentations in oak and alcohol levels between 13.5% and 14%; new French oak zero to 20%; all 16 months’ maturation; and whole bunch zero to 23%. Each carefully calibrated measure is designed to focus on this unique place, the winemaker its servant.
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