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Get your Greek on at this slick new Bondi restaurant

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Topikos — meaning "local" — is the latest sparkling opening for the Point Group, the brains and talent behind Shell House, the biggest Sydney City hit of 2021.

In a bright, light, white and blue-themed dining room and bar, pale wood-and-wicker chairs, dusty-blue napkins and matching banquettes, and waitstaff in Grecian white enhance a Hellenic look and feel. 

Along with its ocean-facing meze bar and outdoor tables next door, lots of smiles, cheery greetings and local staff (ex Totti's, the Bucket List etc) certainly set this newbie up for success.

So does the food. Sticking tightly to the Greek script, you can enjoy smooth and punchy taramasalata topped with fish roe .

Thanks to a wood oven out back, house-baked pita is a warm, fragrant, toasty puff, begging to be dipped, scooped and dipped again.

While wood-fired ockie with spanaki (spinach) sauce is straight from the textbook and stickily melting, a little bowl of spanner crab mixed with herby rice is fun.

Drawing on the best contemporary Greek vintages and blends, the wine list is definitely something to explore, with the help of savvy staff.

There are Greek digestives and ouzo, and judging by lots of seriously energetic shaker action behind the full-length bar, those cocktail creations are getting a workout. 

All in all, Topikos offers a pretty fine time. Tables heave with the ntopioi (Greek for "locals") plus large groups sharing slow-cooked lamb shoulder.

There's atmosphere a-plenty. Enough to imagine you might be on Mykonos, if only for an hour or two. And feeling like a local.

Author: Joanna SavillPhotography: Instagram @topikos__Producer: Simone Kealy

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Original URL: https://www.theaustralian.com.au/web-stories/free/the-australian/get-your-greek-on-at-this-slick-new-bondi-restaurant