Why the Athens coast is the new French Riviera
Change is in the air in Athens where a coastal enclave is emerging as a sophisticated playground for travellers – and an alternative to the Greek islands.
Athens is forever reinventing itself. One of Europe’s oldest cities has long enticed travellers with its wealth of historic and euphoric sights, from landmark antiquities to buzzy neighbourhoods and creative spaces. Its latest drawcard? A coastal getaway. Glyfada, gateway to the Athenian Riviera, is barely 30 minutes’ drive from the centre of the Greek capital, yet it remains an underrated destination compared with hotspots such as the Amalfi Coast or Côte d’Azur. Mykonos, Santorini and the like have stolen its thunder, too. “Many people come to Athens and go straight to the islands,” my taxi driver laments on a recent morning. “But you can see there are so many reasons to stay here. It’s beautiful.”
We are whizzing along a stretch of sapphire coastline known as the Saronic Gulf. Even on this autumn morning, the weather is balmy, the light is honeyed and the Aegean is dotted with sleek yachts and humble fishing boats. Glyfada’s history is both gritty and glittery. As the weekend homes in the hills attest, locals have flocked here for generations. There are pretty beaches where windsurfers crisscross the waves, and thermal springs where Athenians seek refuge from the city. Glyfada’s heyday was the 1950s and ’60s when luminaries such as Aristotle Onassis, Maria Callas and Brigitte Bardot would dance away the summer in a haze of glossy hedonism.
Now the opening of One&Only Aesthesis is giving the seaside enclave a major glamour infusion. Built on the foundations of the faded Asteria Beach Club, this tony bolthole is the group’s first foray into Greece, with properties on nearby Kea Island in the Cyclades archipelago, and Mykonos to come. On arrival, the hotel’s coolly modern entrance comes into view from a driveway garlanded with olive trees and lavender bushes. A bell is sounded, paying homage to Athens’s shipping heritage, and staff appear in crisp mint uniforms, white sneakers and navy sailor’s caps. A mosaic pathway connects to a reception lounge decorated with a jaunty mid-century vibe: stone walls, organic ceramics, and plush seating. But it’s hard to compete with the view of Asteria Beach framed by floor-to-ceiling glass windows.
A winding staircase leads down to the lower level, where Alelia bar, Ora by Ettore Botrini restaurant, and the pool terrace are located. The curved central building is the “heart and soul” of the property explains the resort’s general manager, Yann Gillet, a charming French transplant who previously worked in India, Morocco and, most recently, Nice. “It’s actually been designed in the shape of an evil eye,” he adds, in reference to the classic talisman. “The thinking is that it makes sure you are well.” Good vibrations alone were not enough to protect the building – the hotel’s designers were required to adhere to exacting government preservation regulations. “You can only build if you follow the existing footprint of a former building,” says Gillet.
One&Only tapped three architectural firms – K-Studio, Audo and A6 Architects – as well as interior designer Inge Moore of Muza Lab to execute the 127-room lodging with striking precision. The resort spans bungalows, villas and 12 private residences, along with hidden coves, protected forests, and an adults-only beach called Mystiko (Greek for secret), along with a 5000-year-old archaeological site a few metres inland. The entire property is low-rise, discreet and disguised with native shrubbery, such as herbs and succulents, pine trees and bougainvillea.
If the upper level is serene, downstairs is where the party starts with a riot of prints, textures and vivid shades. At the open-air Alelia bar, my eye is drawn to a light installation with olive-size glass pendants in jewel tones of blue and green. A bold mosaic floor of black and pink flows to the exterior where a grown-up playground unfolds before me: eight timber cubes that double as beach cabanas, fire pits, and three pools (one for children, one for adults and one for all). The resort’s private yachts are moored at a tiny nearby island ready to whisk you into the distance, and the tree-topped hills of Ymittos glow in the background.
If this is the new-look Athenian Riviera, I’m sold. The fact you don’t need to contend with a domestic flight or ferry transfer to reach the Grecian islands is a plus. “Athens is more vibey than ever,” adds Gillet, as we eat lunch by the pool at Ora. “And we’re so close to the centre of the city. Here you have this warm, crystal water in the lagoon out the front, great beaches, and fantastic food.” Ora, by Greek-Italian chef Ettore Botrini, is a mod-Med confection with inspired updates on classic dishes, from cured meat to stewed fish. Cheeses are labelled according to region, local varieties of honey star, and the peppery but fruity Dr Kavvadia olive oil is delivered to the table in an apothecary-style bottle. Blended for the resort, the antioxidant-rich elixir becomes my daily medicine of sorts.
Joining Ora is the pop-up El Bar de Paco Morales, an outpost of the Michelin-starred Spanish chef’s Moorish-meets-Mediterranean concept. It’s akin to a synthesis of bar snacks and fine dining. Think calamari rolls, chicken croquettes and a sublime rendition of beef tartare paired with quail egg, parmesan and pickles. Next door, at the resort’s beach club, Manko will offer Peruvian-inspired fare and pisco-infused cocktails when it opens in April. There is also an excellent room-service menu, with moussaka and galaktoboureko among the delicious hits. The resort bottles its own water from its well, while the minibars are stocked in partnership with Athens’s Line bar (number 12 in the World’s 50 Best Bars ranking), with full-sized local and international spirits and wines.
And what of the rooms? Crafted from local marble, natural timbers and woven leather, the accommodations are thoughtful and peaceful. Sliding glass doors and skylights bathe the interiors in sunshine, with a subtle interplay between light and shade courtesy of deep slatted patios and contemporary claustras (screens). Bungalows have plunge pools, and there are hats to borrow for sunny days, two types of robe (linen and waffle), lifestyle books to flick through, artisan chocolates to snack on and easy touchpads to control lighting and temperature. Full-sized Montroi toiletries in the resort’s signature Riviera Nostos scent tempt with a melding of leather, amber and birch.
The signature suite, the two-bedroom Villa One, comes with Callas-level flourishes. It’s equipped with incredible art, a private infinity pool, rooftop barbecue patio, and indoor gardens that resemble a terrarium. It can be connected to several other villas for large groups to holiday within a compound. The bungalows are configured in a communal way, too, almost like a nostalgic summer camp. They’re ideal for multi-generational travellers, groups of friends, or even solo guests seeking privacy. Every guest has two round-the-clock hosts to cater to every whim.
As befits the riviera locale, water sports are king: private sailing trips, diving adventures, and snorkelling tours across the Aegean. Sybarites would appreciate the multisensory offering at the resort’s Guerlain Spa – the first in the Mediterranean – from floral foot baths to body treatments with rose quartz stones and remedial massages using hot spheres containing aromatic oils. Nearby Lake Vouliagmeni beckons with its thermal spa experience, or guests can sign up for tours of the Acropolis, the Benaki Museum or a Greek sandal-making lesson with local artisans.
As I walk back to my bungalow one evening, the scent of citrus and pine in the air, I’m transfixed by the golden-hued gloaming hour. Aesthesis really is a sun-dappled feast for the senses. Adding to the area’s lure, the Four Seasons Astir Palace arrived in 2019, on a pine-studded peninsula. Offering the opportunity to draw tourists well beyond the crowded summer months, the Athenian Riviera is a new focus for the Greek government. The transformation of its beachfront is an investment so vital that prime minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis attended the inauguration of Aesthesis. “It always seemed odd to me that a city with 50 kilometres of coastline didn’t focus on resort development along the coast,” Mitsotakis told local press. “And this development is not only happening here, but also many other projects that are under way.”
On my back to the city, my taxi driver proudly points out the $8 billion Ellinikon site, a large-scale urban regeneration of the decommissioned Athens International Airport that will transform the area with parks, residences, hotels and a marina. It’s Dubai-like in its ambition, for sure, but, as my stay at Aesthesis confirms, the Greeks never forget to add a hearty splash of philoxenia – homegrown hospitality that spoils visitors. “It’s so much more than a warm welcome,” says Gillet. “You are made to feel like a cherished member of the family wherever you go.”
The writer was a guest of One&Only.
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