Why Mildura’s a shining star of regional tourism
Anchored by the Murray River, the Victorian town is cementing its credentials with great food and impressive art.
Anchored by the Murray River, the Victorian town is cementing its tourism credentials with great food and impressive art.
1 In the spotlight
A 540km drive northwest of central Melbourne, Mildura is best known as a major producer of citrus, grapes and dried vine fruits. Now, with Queensland’s Sunshine Coast recently added to its direct flight connections by newcomer Bonza, this food-loving city on the Murray River is gaining momentum as a travel destination. Mildura’s holiday beacon will shine brighter when Trail of Light is switched on next year. This is the latest installation by Bruce Munro, creator of Uluru’s Field of Light and Kings Canyon’s Light-Towers. His latest site-specific work will include more than 12,550 firefly-like lights, reflected in Lake Cullulleraine and illuminating a purpose-built walking trail. The Light/State project’s other half, Munro’s Fibre Optic Symphonic Orchestra, will also glow up the NSW side of the border from 2024.
2 Stefano branches out
Italian-born Stefano de Pieri arrived in Australia in 1974 and put this town on the foodie map during the 1990s with his eponymous restaurant and book and TV show A Gondola on the Murray. Dining at Stefano’s is still de rigueur, but also consider daytime meals at his cafe. In a space brightened by contemporary art and a store of gourmet foods – including de Pieri’s pasta sauces, preserves and more – choose from classic Australian breakfast dishes, Italian-leaning small plates and hearty mains. Another top daytime option is light and airy Brother Chris. Good coffee with chilli crab scrambled eggs or creme brulee French toast give way to globetrotting lunches such as “schnitty bao”, perhaps with a Sunraysia Spritz.
3 Wine time
The Sunraysia region’s irrigated land is predominantly planted with grape vines, but it’s not known for wine as most fruit is eaten, fresh or dried, or becomes bulk-export plonk. There is a handful of boutique vineyards, however, established by those who figure that if this Mediterranean-style climate produces good grapes, it can produce good wine, too. Trentham Estate is leading the charge. Estate-grown vino, including uncommon varieties such as nero d’avola and verdejo, is among the extensive selection at the cellar door and casual restaurant. Its tile-and-timber design is slightly passe, but deck and lawn seating offer Murray River views that call for a second glass.
4 Designated drivers
Visit three vineyards without driving worries on Discover Mildura’s small-group winery tours, with bonus paddleboat cruising on the all-day option. Or take its in-depth taste of the diverse food production either side of the river border, including at Orange World, where juice is as fresh as the tourist experience is delightfully dated (including giant prop fruit for kooky photo ops). Discover Mildura’s other tasty tour highlights include the usually off-limits Murray River Salt harvesting site, an otherworldly place of salt-edged ponds and salt mounds. It also specialises in tours to UNESCO World Heritage-listed Mungo National Park, an even more extraordinary landscape of dunes and sculptural geological formations.
5 National parks
Among Murray Offroad Adventures’ tours are two that explore unsung Victorian national parks. Peter and Jeanie Kelly know this region like their backyard, so as we approach Murray-Sunset National Park in their 4WD van, a grumpy grazier’s DIY sign is merely good for laughs: “The bloody park is 15k that way.” In this low landscape of scrub, golden sand and so many shallow lakes that most are unnamed, they take us straight to a naturally pink lake, then reveal bones and petrified wood atop a dune. In Hattah-Kulkyne National Park, where vegetation is more prolific and lakes larger, our attention is drawn to waterbirds such as grebes and egrets. On all their tours, which might take in a winery, brewery or silo art, Jeanie’s home-cooked catering is a highlight.
6 Pizza the action
Melbourne-based boutique pizza chain 400 Gradi must have noticed Mildura’s star rising, as its sixth restaurant opened here last year. It’s also the largest, seating 300, but thoughtful design makes it feel intimate. Spaces are separated by banquettes, low partitions or the glass-enclosed wine wall, and black terrazzo tables are warmly lit. I figure the many patrons on an ordinary Wednesday night are here for the pizzas. Made according to the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana’s guidelines, they have earned several international awards such as the Australian gong at the 2023 World Pizza Championship. They are indeed excellent but there is more to like, from smoky negronis to creamy, truffly mushroom pasta.
7 Art in the city
Browse the CBD’s expanding outdoor gallery of murals, or discover them all, including several tucked down laneways, with the self-guided walking tour available online. Painted by Australian and international artists, these large-scale artworks include a vibrant celebration of Mildura inspired by nostalgic advertising posters, and a long, lively mural reminiscent of mid-20th century Italian graphic design. The latest addition, painted in April, beautifully showcases the region’s rainbow-coloured native birds and flora. Don’t miss the impressive Mildura Arts Centre Gallery, which boasts its own mural plus an Edgar Degas pastel and a significant collection of Anglo-Irish artist William Orpen’s paintings.
8 Gin wins
Even before the first sip, Fossey’s distillery bar makes you feel at ease. The erstwhile Mildura Settlers Club’s inter-war lounge is enlivened with contemporary quirks, such as vivid patchwork upholstery on fireside armchairs, while the courtyard is a bower of grape vines and fairy lights. The drinks list includes 16 gins made in the copper still, some using local ingredients such as oranges, shiraz grapes or saltbush, while Christmas pudding is the festive gin’s defining flavour. Other options include house-made whisky and non-alcoholic gin, plus snacks such as cauliflower with gin aioli.
9 Fine dining
Stefano’s isn’t the only Italian fine-diner in town.The Province recalls the best of restaurants from the not-so-distant past, including soft surfaces to reduce noise and white tablecloths. Chandeliers and sepia photographs of the old country add to its dignified charm. The wine list favours those from Italy, Victoria and South Australia, while food is deliciously rich, from handmade pasta to flavoursome meats like marinated quail and braised goat. Share antipasti such as burrata with braised fennel, king oyster mushrooms, pea puree and truffle oil, or there is no hope of dessert.
10 Best accommodation
The quintessential Murray River accommodation, houseboats are made for slow holidays with family or friends. With a boat or driver’s licence, take the helm and tootle along or stop as you please, including in Mildura where houseboats can moor a short stroll from the CBD. All Seasons Houseboats’ 15-strong fleet includes vessels ranging from budget to indulgence. This Victorian Tourism Awards Hall of Famer’s premium option is Iconic Luxury, which launched last year. It offers six bedrooms, each with king bed and roomy ensuite, and several spots for lounging, including an eight-person outdoor spa. A staircase leads to the large open-plan upper deck with pleasures such as panoramic windows, gas log fire and kitchen appliances. This posh pad’s three-night minimum starts at $4800 ($133 a person a night).
Patricia Maunder was a guest of Visit Victoria.
