Where to eat in Melbourne
Attica isn’t the only thing tying the New Zealand-born chef to Melbourne.
He’s the owner and chef behind the world-class menu at Melbourne’s finest eatery. But ask Ben Shewry why he would never leave Melbourne and you’ll discover his restaurant Attica isn’t the only thing that compels him to stay put. Instead, he says, it’s the supportive nature of Victoria’s vibrant capital city that keeps him firmly in place.
“People here really get behind creative projects and that makes for a wonderful place to work and live in,” he says.
Attica is a good case in point. According to Shewry, the initial years following its 2005 opening was a slow burn notwithstanding Shewry’s strong, creative side.
“Despite the early challenges I’ve always felt wanted here and that early affirmation buoyed me on. The openness of this city to new ideas and the consistent support of those ideas … take shape into something more meaningful. It’s the reason why I could never leave.”
Originally from the town of Waitara in New Zealand’s North Island, Shewry first opened Attica in the suburb of Ripponlea, a 9km drive from Melbourne’s CBD, 17-years-ago and has since featured on lists of the world’s best restaurants for a decade. And while his famous $310 tasting menu draws people in from around the globe, Shewry’s go-to local haunts are just as enticing.
Below, the renowned chef shares his favourite places for all things food as well as his top recommendations for where to stay and what to do while you’re in Melbourne.
EAT
First things first, coffee: Like any righteous Melburnian the first thing Shewry does is seek out the best coffee in the city. Brother Baba Budan on Little Bourke Street in the CBD is “some of Melbourne’s best” with the added bonus of being served by friendly staff. “I don’t care how good the coffee is if the staff aren’t lovely,” he says.
Another all time favourite is Market Lane, a company which responsibly sources its coffee from growers in Guatemala, Bolivia, Rwanda and Brazil and has multiple locations, including Prahran Market, Carlton and Brunswick East.
Next stop, lunch: Forgoing breakfast is made easier with another cup of coffee, a trick Shewry recommends trying while you wait for Lulu’s Char Koay Teow in Hardware Lane to open at 11am. “My formative twenties were spent over plates of Char Koay Teow in Malaysian restaurants in Wellington, New Zealand and this dish formed a special place in my heart,” he reveals. Lulu’s is the best Char Koay Teow Shewry’s had in Australia, but be prepared to queue if you arrive late . “It’s most definitely worth the wait.”
Never say no to pasta: If you’re looking for something a little more sophisticated he recommends dining at Tipo 00 pasta bar in the CBD for some delectable Italian cuisine. Rigatoni made with Sher Wagyu beef, tomato and confit chilli and cacio e pepe tortellini with cauliflower and black garlic are crowd favourites.
Under-the-radar lunch spot: Shewry recently had a “lovely” lunch experience at Cambodian restaurant Phnom Penh Thmei in Springvale where the “passionate and caring” staff guided him and his partner, Kylie Staddon, Attica’s operation manager, through the menu, which features it’s signature Phnom Penh noodle soup. “I profess I’m completely ignorant when it comes to Cambodian food. What a revelation and we can’t wait to go back.”
Traditional is best: Shewry says the best way to end the day is with a meal at traditional Cantonese restaurant Flower Drum. Located in the city, the sprawling red-carpeted restaurant serves up handmade pan fried dumplings, E-fu egg noodles with roast duck and shiitake mushrooms, and braised Wagyu beef cheek.
Nightcap: After dinner, the option to sip on a gimlet from Gimlet at Cavendish House, the only Aussie spot named in the top 100 restaurants in the world this year, is a no brainer.
STAY
Old school luxury: If you’re looking to splurge, Shewry recommends staying at The Sofitel Melbourne On Collins where the “views over Melbourne Park and the MCG were spectacular.”
“I had the pleasure of starting at one of the suites a couple of years back. It was a tremendous stay – the sort that makes you not want to leave your room, despite the attractions of Collins Street and Flinders Lane being right below you,” he recalls.
The hotel’s newly refurbished rooms and suites feature contemporary furniture which add to the hotel’s traditional French ‘Salon’ style with sweeping views of the city skyline. Guests also have the chance to enjoy the hotel’s No35 Restaurant, which is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as Atrium Bar on 35 where mojitos, manhattans and martinis will be shaken each night.
Fit for a family: W Hotel is great for families says Shewry, who has previously taken his three teenage children there for a city weekend stay. But the real draw card is a little less childproof. The fantastic underground bar called Curious with its spectacular undulating ceiling is the hotel’s main attraction. “You’ll need to book a seat at the bar before your arrival as it fills fast.”
Guestrooms are categorised as WOW, Extreme WOW and Fabulous, so prepare to be impressed. Accommodation features floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the skyline. The fit-out and artwork reference the city and the pool also sets it apart from its competitors.
PLAY
Treasure hunting: One of Shewry’s favourite things to do is trawl for antiques. His go-to shops include Armadale Antique Centre in Armadale, Camberwell Antiques Centre in Camberwell, Radar and Angelucci 20th Century in Fitzroy, and Gallery Midlandia in Collingwood, “to name a few.” Shewry says his taste in vintage items range from mostly modernist design from the 50s to 70s to antique toys.
Mid Century Modern tour: Shewry recommends booking a walking tour of the Mid Century Modern housing enclaves of the bayside suburb of Beaumaris, the inner-Melbourne suburb of Kew and Caulfield North in the city’s south east.
Surf’s up: Hitting Urbnsurf, Australia’s first surf park, near the airport for an hour of intense surf action – “trust me, one hour is enough unless you are a pro”– is perfect for any keen surfers or those travelling with kids. With ocean-like waves suitable for beginner and seasoned surfers, visitors will have access to wetsuits, surfboards and lessons. “You can even grab lunch from Three Blue Ducks right on site,” Shewry adds.
Time to explore: One of Shewry’s all time favourite parts of Melbourne to explore is Springvale, a local secret he says is often missing from tourism guides. “I’ve been visiting this Vietnamese and Chinese community and its endless range of restaurants and food shops ever since I moved here in 2002. I discover something new each time I return. Recently I’ve loved the Vietnamese desserts at Che Desserts.”
Ben’s top five
- Coffee at Brother Buba Budan
- Lunch at Tipo 00
- Play at Urbnsurf
- Dinner at Flower Drum
- A gimlet at Gimlet