Where to eat, drink and stay on the Left Bank
Writers, artists and thinkers made this part of Paris their home and we show how to follow in their footsteps.
Writers, artists and thinkers made this part of Paris their home and we show you the best places to visit.
1. The best neighbourhoods
The capital’s Latin Quarter is the perfect entry point to the Left Bank; cross over the Seine at Notre Dame for ease of access. The Latin Quarter is the location of the first Roman settlement in Paris, in 52BC, in what was then called Lutetia, a winding labyrinth of cobblestone streets. From ancient Roman baths to a hidden 1st-century amphitheatre, early history mixes with modern creativity and some unexpectedly good independent shopping. The Sorbonne University is at the epicentre of the Latin Quarter, which is a great place to gravitate towards and get your bearings. With winding streets on either side of Boulevard St Germain, flanked by the Seine and Jardin du Luxembourg, wander streets filled with buskers and cafes, and stop for lunch at Polidor, founded in 1845 and well-known for its famed clientele, including writers Ernest Hemingway and Jack Kerouac.
2. The best views
Panoramic 360-degree views in Paris are few and far between for those without the luxury of a penthouse apartment. There’s no better way to remind oneself you’re in Paris by sipping on Champagne overlooking the sparkling Eiffel Tower, sunset on cue. The trendy Hotel Dame des Arts’ rooftop bar and terrace provides all this in spades; an essential first port of call for sundowner drinks, it’s open to guests and non-guests alike, including loads of locals. Its Left Bank position in the 7th allows for prime views of the glittering dome of Les Invalides, Montmartre, Sacre-Coeur, the (partially rebuilt) Notre Dame and, of course, the Eiffel Tower. Be sure to book ahead; this gem isn’t likely to be off the radar for too long.
3. Where to eat
The Left Bank’s popularity with writers, artists and intellectuals means there’s a story behind almost every restaurant, cafe and street corner. There are plenty of options to join in the footsteps of some of history’s most revered, including at the ever-popular Cafe de Flore, fancied by Pablo Picasso and fashion designer Yves Saint-Laurent, but expect long lines during peak times (hot tip, go for an after-dinner espresso to beat the queues). Or head across the road to Les Deux Magots, the preferred haunt of Jean-Paul Sartre. Deeper into the 6th, La Closerie des Lilas brasserie is a more in-the-know option, dishing up classic French favourites and once a preferred haunt of Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald and Henry Miller.
4. Why Musee Rodin should be on your radar
One of the city’s most photogenic spots, Musee Rodin’s sculpture garden displays Auguste Rodin’s most famed masterpieces, including the Thinker. The large collection sprawls across manicured gardens and the salons of historic Hotel Biron, where Rodin lived and worked, which feels more like a high-end atelier than a gallery. Bonus points for spotting the Van Gogh and Monet pieces once belonging to the master sculpture. Perfectly set up for wandering aimlessly or immersing oneself in the Rodin world, the museum is one of the most romantic ways to spend a few hours in Paris.
5. Where to shop
What’s Paris without a spot of shopping? The world’s most fashionable city has plenty in the way of grand luxury, most of which can be found on the right side of the river on fabled streets such as Champs-Elysees and Rue Saint-Honore. But tucked away in the 7th is Le Bon Marche, arguably Paris’s coolest department store, which also happens to be its oldest. With the usual fashion house suspects (Dior, Chanel and Loewe are all here), the building really shines in its beauty and skincare department, which features dedicated perfumery outlets from local heroes Celine, Diptyque and Frederic Malle, plus cult French favourites such as Biologique Recherche and Violette FR. Our favourite is the building’s array of ever-changing pop-up spaces, which display offerings from boutiques and regions from across the country.
6. Where to get the best French food
Steak frites, tartare, bouillabaisse, escargot … eating like the French means commitment to the cause, and luckily in Paris there’s no shortage of white tablecloth-clad dining spots to feel fully immersed.
The Left Bank’s dining scene is one of the best in the city, filled with in-the-know locals, perching alfresco with a Chablis in hand. Our pick of the bunch is Le Petit Lutetia at Hotel Lutetia. Perhaps the best spot in the city for people-watching, this Rive Gauche establishment is a hotspot for trendy Parisians crossing from the Right Bank and for long-time locals’ regular gatherings. Closer to the Seine in the 7th is Le Voltaire, housed in former horse stables; here the equine aesthetic translates to the decor, with booths, which were once stalls, now partitioning off diners. For something more low-key, head to Le Vin en Bouche on Rue l’Abbe Gregoire for a casual tipple on a boutique-filled backstreet of the 6th.
7. Where to get the best ceramics
The Left Bank is famously home to some of the city’s most exciting homewares flagship stores, with many installations from design fair Maison et Objet popping up in the Saint Germain area each January and September.
While bringing home a set of fabulously crafted Rococo chairs might not quite fit in the carry-on, a beautifully crafted keepsake from one of the area’s many ceramics shops might be just the tonic. Eric Goujou’s La Tuile a Loup boutique sells an array of handmade, local tableware pieces which tap into a modern French aesthetic; oozing with colour and intriguing prints from artisans all over the country. Karen Swami’s gallery space in Montparnasse houses the artist’s unique vases, which blend art and design.
8. It is all about Musee d’Orsay
Musee d’Orsay is Paris’s second most-visited museum (after the Louvre), a favourite for artists and amateurs alike. Housed in a renovated Beaux Arts train station and with seemingly endless galleries to explore, Musee d’Orsay’s shining claim is its collections of Impressionist work, which span masters including Cezanne, Degas, Morisot and Manet. As always, an audio guide is essential for a deeper understanding, but for something more personal, semi-private tours can be booked online via local operators.
9. Where to get the best souvenirs
Whether it’s vintage clothes you’re after, or perhaps an antiquarian or rare book, the Left Bank has it all. The famous Shakespeare & Co. is the stuff of dreams for history buffs and lovers of literary fiction, but around the corner at The Abbey Bookshop there’s an array of English second-hand and rare books, and usually without the queues of tourists. Deyrolle’s unique collection of taxidermy and museum pieces is also worth a visit just to gawk or maybe even grab an unusual souvenir. Also check in for seasonal brocante, or flea markets, which can yield an array of eclectic antique jewellery and art.
10. Where to stay
Tucked away in the picturesque Saint-Placide corner of Saint-Germain-des-Pres is the newly opened Hotel des Grands Voyageurs. Designed by Fabrizio Casiraghi, known for his unique takes on luxury small spaces, the hotel’s 138 rooms and restaurant meld sophisticated Parisian elegance with a touch of playfulness.
Deep wood panelling, creams and pops of soft fern-green mix together for a relaxing home away from the bustle of the city. The restaurant’s semi-nautical theme plays into the trans-Atlantic menu, which spans French and American food in a delicious way. Equally beguiling sister hotel Hotel Dame des Arts is just down the street.
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