What to do and see on WA’s Coral Coast
From swimming with sea lions to admiring the vast West Australian landscape, this is a road trip with plenty of distractions.
1 Indian Ocean Drive
Winding north up the coast from Perth to Exmouth, it can be tempting to keep trucking for three or four hours – some lunatics smash the whole 1200km in one day – but the Indian Ocean Drive is a gem-packed first quarter. This southern gateway to the Coral Coast in Western Australia opens with one of the country’s iconic natural wonders, The Pinnacles. Thousands of these otherworldly rock spires rise from the dunes of Nambung National Park, which also reveals beautiful beaches beyond its desert landscape. Up to 5m tall, the limestone formations are best viewed at sunrise or sunset for the eerie shadows cast across yellow sand. Half an hour north is Jurien Bay, where swimming with sea lions could be the most playful experience on your road trip.
2 Geraldton Air Charter
In Geraldton, take a break from the highway and flee to the sky on a scenic flight. Geraldton Air Charter explores some of the most spectacular sights on the Coral Coast of Western Australia: Houtman Abrolhos Islands; the pink lake of Hutt Lagoon; and Kalbarri’s cliffs and gorges. An aerial perspective provides a better understanding of the scope and beauty of this region, with some tours including a landing on East Wallabi Island for a gentle walk and snorkel. In town, the waterfront Museum of Geraldton is a more grounded way to learn about the local landforms, the culture of the Yamaji people, and infamous shipwrecks along this unforgiving coast, such as the Batavia, Zeewijk and HMAS Sydney.
3 Kalbarri National Park
Kalbarri National Park is regarded as one of the world’s top places to find traces of the first life on Earth, thanks to its position at the lower reaches of the Murchison River, which has flowed through the sandstone site for 400 million years. The subsequent deep red canyons can be dramatically observed from the Kalbarri Skywalk, where two 100m-high lookouts project beyond the rim of the Murchison Gorge. The traditional owners’ heritage can also be explored through signage and artwork throughout the park. Winter is wildflower season and a great time to spot migrating whales.
4 Shark Bay World Heritage Area
Stromatolites, the oldest and largest living fossils on Earth, dating back 3.5 billion years, are found in Hamelin Pool, within the Shark Bay World Heritage Area. Resembling big, misshapen potatoes, these marine stromatolites are considered to be the best-preserved and diverse examples of their kind. Coral Coast Helicopter Services offers an exclusive tour to a roped-off section of this incredible destination, landing on Shell Beach, which is made of millions of tiny white cockle shells. Enjoying the deserted paradise and its waist-deep, ultra-clear water, it’s easy to inspect these ancient creations, with or without snorkelling. Astonishingly, the colourful scenery of the helicopter flight is even more spellbinding, with meadows of seagrass and mangroves painting pretty patterns underwater.
5 Fresh produce
The fertile oasis of Carnarvon supplies much of Perth’s fresh produce. On the Fruit Loop Drive Trail, try black sapote ice-cream from Morel’s Orchard, a mango smoothie from Bumbak’s Plantation or anything from the roadside, cash-only honesty stalls. Mundillya Homestead’s goat pies are also gaining fans at Gascoyne Growers Markets, held on Saturdays. Continue driving north to the Quobba Blowholes to see the jagged cliffs get relentlessly pounded and gouged by ferocious swells from the Indian Ocean.
6 Connect with Country
Darren “Capes” Capewell, a guide with Wula Gura Nyinda Eco Cultural Adventures, wants people to feel nature, rather than see it; to fill their spirit instead of their eyes, and deepen their connection to country. At Francois Peron National Park, he describes the strong desert energy, the Indigenous and French history, and the significance of Shark Bay’s UNESCO recognition. An afternoon stroll along an isolated beach, where the desert touches the ocean, reveals red cliffs rising from white sand. Before sunset, Capes gathers oysters from the rocks and roasts them over a sandalwood fire. After slurping the smoky, juicy goodness from the shells, be moved by the stirring sounds of his didgeridoo as the daytime energy transfers to night. Camping is also an option.
7 The Kimberley
The Kimberley has its horizontal waterfalls, Dirk (Wirruwana or Dirk Hartog Island) has a horizontal blowhole. Catch the sight, if conditions are right, with Island Life Adventures. Board a small vessel in Denham, spotting dolphins, turtles and rays along the way, before crisscrossing WA’s largest island in a four-wheel-drive. Watch sharks hunting prey in the Surf Point marine sanctuary, kayak around a bay bursting with bird life, and check out an old shearing shed for a glimpse of pastoral history. Return to 1616, an ecological project aiming to restore the environment to the state in which it was “discovered” by its namesake Dutch explorer, has seen introduced animals removed and native mammals reintroduced.
dirkhartogisland.com.au/islandlifeadventures
8 Ningaloo Reef
Believe the hype: Ningaloo Reef is worth the trek because then everything is easy and exceptional. The near-shore reef can be reached from the beach, wading in from the sand, or by small boat for half-day expeditions. On our trip from Exmouth with Live Ningaloo, the first whale shark appears before we finish the safety briefing. After 10 swims with up-close sightings, we encounter a massive manta ray and a dugong, but the jaw-dropping jackpot is a humpback whale, carrying her newborn calf on her back, passing gracefully beneath us. To ensure such moments are not missed, Live Ningaloo limits its group to 10 people – the maximum permitted in the water at once – so nobody has to wait their turn.
9 Coral Bay
At the southern end of Ningaloo’s 5000sq km is the obviously named Coral Bay. According to locals, it’s a quieter alternative to Monkey Mia but similarly family-friendly. Head to Robinson St to locate the sheltered Bill’s Bay for safe swimming around exquisite coral gardens teeming with fish. A unmissable location on the Coral Coast in Western Australia. Whale-watching cruises (June to November) and glass-bottom boat tours are popular, while fishing charters will deliver turquoise waters full of marlin, tuna, mahi mahi and sailfish, and the more commonly caught cod and bream.
10 Best beds
Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef Safari Camp is remarkable for its absolute reef-frontage on a secluded sliver of the North West Cape. Step from your safari tent on to the sand and into the water to paddle around Ningaloo, with no boats or transfer required. No less appealing is the bushland backdrop of Cape Range National Park that seems to detach the camp from the outside world. The simplicity of Sal Salis slows you down from the minute of arrival. Guests are picked up in a buggy from the car park. Champagne appears in an ice bucket. Your hammock awaits. Invitations are extended to join a guided kayak-snorkel, gorge hike or beach yoga. Each evening, everyone dines at a shared outdoor table, creating an instant dinner party under the stars. As an official Dark Sky area, Sal Salis tops off the night with unforgettable views of the Milky Way.
Louise Goldsbury was a guest of Tourism Western Australia and Australia’s Coral Coast.
This article was originally published in November 2021 and has since been updated.