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What do you look for in a mid-range CBD hotel?

After a major revamp, does this four-star property have what it takes for a Sydney city stay?

Seating in the lobby of the Novotel Sydney Centre.
Seating in the lobby of the Novotel Sydney Centre.

Hotels in CBD locations are not necessarily known for wit and whimsy, especially in the mid-star bracket. But Novotel City Centre, owned by Salter Brothers, managed by Accor and formerly branded as Mercure Sydney Wynyard, is full of surprises, and I mean that in a good way. But let’s get the few minuses out of the way up front. The name is misleading as the location is at the northern end of York St, closer to the Sydney Harbour Bridge freeway than the NSW capital’s business hub. But there’s one drawback that has been thankfully remedied. The hotel opened late last year when its sister property was still operational. Unhelpfully, the sibling’s name was Novotel Sydney Central. Go figure. But at least we have closure on that dilemma and taxi drivers surely are relieved too.

Novotel Sydney City Centreis at the northern end of York St.
Novotel Sydney City Centreis at the northern end of York St.

There has been significant investment in new interiors and facilities and all done with clever thinking. The broad, light-filled foyer encompasses myriad seating options, from bentwood chairs to sofas, and workspace areas, plus smart check-in terminals as well as reception desk staff eager to assist. Good lighting, statement art pieces, jolts of colour and greenery all add to a welcoming, almost residential feel. But the piece de resistance on this level is Birdie Bar and Brasserie, officially launched with all elements in place in January and already a neighbourhood hit, not least for its cocktails, many based on locally distilled dry gin, and six named for Australian birds. Hail the sulphur-crested cockatoo mix, which comes with lemon meringue foam and shortbread crumble. Order a satin bowerbird and the glass’s rim will be adorned with blackberries to mimic the nest-decorating habits of the species. Check the busily patterned wallpaper and spot the rainbow lorikeets and full-crested cockies.

Head chef John Lyons is at the helm of Birdie Bar and Brasserie.
Head chef John Lyons is at the helm of Birdie Bar and Brasserie.

Head chef John Lyons, ex well-known Michelin-starred restaurants in his British homeland, has created an excellent menu with distinctive playful touches and key Japanese flavours such as koji, miso, dashi, wasabi and black sesame. Hand on heart, I would not have thought a “flight of ducks” could be anything but a bad wall ornament in a Coronation Street front parlour. Yet here we have three moulded yellow duckies that look fit for a baby’s bathtub but are artistically perched on a plate, rich and buttery outside and filled with duck liver parfait. Accoutrements from good cutlery and plateware to bistro-style lamps at each table create a very pleasant atmosphere.

If seeing is believing, then the 283 guest­rooms are not as bland and identikit as Accor’s typical family-friendly four-star properties. The overall refurbishment investment was $20m and there’s a slightly bewildering array of categories, but the overall look, conceived by Sydney-based hotel and hospitality specialist agency Dezign on a theme of “echoes of nature”, is very contemporary, featuring timber panelling and muted forest colours. Some styles have plank floors; others have locally made customised carpets in mossy, earthy tones. It’s pleasingly cohesive, with no jarring missteps (save for the absence of Nes-presso machines).

Novotel Sydney City Centre superior king room with balcony.
Novotel Sydney City Centre superior king room with balcony.

My pick would be a third-floor king balcony configuration with outdoor seating and slanted views towards Wynyard Park. Despite double-glazed windows, there’s a constant stream of traffic but it’s more of a determined whoosh than a roar. Or splurge on a one-bedroom suite on the uppermost levels 21 and 22. Throughout, the beds are super-comfortable, lighting and USB ports are intuitive, and the pale grey and bright white ensuites are well-configured and equipped with Deep Nature vegan amenities. Big ticks for recycling bins and digital compendiums. Vertically ribbed leatherette upholstery in greens and greys on bedheads and behind the seating area is durable and nifty tables are designed at optimum heights to easily convert to desks, with plenty of leg room if using the sofa as a chair. There’s a potted plant in each guestroom, too, which may seem an insignificant touch but is a welcome addition in such an urban environment.

This is the first Novotel in Australia to be designed according to Accor’s “Hypothesis” formula of reducing waste in environmental practice and space. It has been an ambitious project but has worked well. Affordable tariff, various transport options a stroll away and ducks all in a row. What’s not to love?

Birdie Bar and Brasserie in the Novotel Sydney City Centre.
Birdie Bar and Brasserie in the Novotel Sydney City Centre.

IN THE KNOW

Novotel Sydney City Centre is at 7-9 York St. The property is family-friendly, with 33 interconnecting rooms and late checkouts available on Sundays. Children up to 16 stay free if sharing a room with parents or guardians. Standard twin configurations are larger than the norm and feature two double beds. Rooms from about $282 a night, Monday-Thursday, if booked via All Accor (free membership program). Birdie Bar and Brasserie offers tasting menus, weekday lunch specials and a la carte.

Susan Kurosawa was a guest of Accor.

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Original URL: https://www.theaustralian.com.au/travel/what-do-you-look-for-in-a-midrange-cbd-hotel/news-story/50bd15d1699e7b7a5d85344be82cdb07