Want a quieter alternative to Bali? This island in Vietnam is the answer
This relatively unknown lush tropical destination is perfect for relaxation and culinary indulgence.
The women drummers of Trong Dong Group, resplendent in red and putting heart and soul into their performance, seal the deal on this being an unbeatable evening, so to speak. Their setting is poolside amid lush tropical vegetation on the Vietnamese island of Phu Quoc.
The percussionists are the finale to An Odyssey to Vietnam at Regent Phu Quoc resort, one in a series of pop-up Taste Studio “interactive dining experiences” showcasing art, design, fashion and cuisine.
It gives the resort’s house and guest chefs a chance to go to town on their culinary creations, along with a “mood therapist” (cocktail mixologists are so yesterday), and performance painter turning contributed doodles into works of art with the help of paint, water, fire and glitter (move over, Mr Squiggle).
But the great gasps go to the mesmerising effects that creative technologists AC3 achieve throughout the night with a light show on the long, white banquet table, pinpointed to (carefully positioned) individual plates.
Psychedelic lava flows, rainbow ripples, moving clockwork parts herald the theatrical arrival of courses (styled as “acts”) featuring succulent oysters, scallops, lobsters and wagyu beef. That’s with a sticky toffee and banana pudding to finish. A simple tablecloth will never suffice again.
While a Taste Studio evening is an occasional event (keep an eye on the resort website for dates), Regent Phu Quoc’s offerings in accommodation, cuisine, wellness facilities and, above all, friendly and efficient staff, are a cut above. Think, a long white-sand beach, turquoise water, hammocks strung between palms, inviting pools, the greenest of gardens (including herbs and spices for the kitchens) tended meticulously – all an invitation to unwind and do nothing much.
Phu Quoc not readily on the radar? It’s Vietnam’s largest island, shaped like a miniature South America, but only 150km around the coastline. Located south of the Vietnam mainland in the Gulf of Thailand, it’s near the Mekong delta and, indeed, due south of Cambodia.
About half of the island is a rainforest-rich national park, part of a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 2016. Beside tourism, its mainstays are seafood, pepper, pearls and the production of fish sauce. Duong Dong, the main town, hosts a lively night market. More darkly, captured north Vietnamese soldiers and Vietcong were held in a prison camp on the island during the Vietnam War.
Regent Phu Quoc opened in 2022 as part of a refreshment of the Regent brand within the IHG Hotels & Resorts portfolio. It’s an all-suites-and-villas property (302 in total, many with private pools), the work of hospitality design group BLINK. The look is relaxed luxury, with use of cream colours and cypress and references to traditional Vietnamese architecture.
On arrival I am escorted by an amiable room “agent” along a wide timber colonnade fringed by ponds (home to healthy, multi-coloured koi fish), sculptures and gardens. We’re off to an upper level of Sky Wing where my host explains the workings of my suite – there’s quite a bit to take in. It’s after dark and, unfolding a resort map, he assures me, “You’ll understand it all in the morning.” Indeed I do. As well as Sky, there’s Ocean Wing, both overlooking ground-level villas, neatly grouped around two lagoons on either side of a spine of restaurants, Taste Gallery. Beyond that are pools, sun lounges and the Ocean Club, opposite Long Beach and blue waters.
It’s all very enticing, but I have this magnificent suite to acquaint myself with first. Check out the entrance area, with adjacent powder room, leading to a marble-topped dining table and on to a living area with fully equipped kitchen, island bar and stools. I could cook up a storm here, but the restaurants beckon. Fresh flowers and fruit (love the lychees, dragon fruit and Vietnamese apples, and the passionfruit are from heaven), a bottle of Billecart-Salmon champagne and chocolates add a welcoming touch.
On to the bedroom, with comfy king bed, and bathroom, with twin vanities, tub and shower recess. Robes with colourful illustrations of a legendary local emperor, black pearls and peppercorns capture the spirit of a holiday in an exotic location.
But here’s the clincher: the curtains open to a private terrace with infinity pool and view to the sea, giant elevated daybed and a decadent array of towels and cushions. I top up a tray with treats from the well-stocked minibar and only one thought is in my brain: “Such (should be) life.”
The weather is warm and humid, but not unbearably so; I am visiting at the tail end of the wet season, Vietnam’s summer. A private pool is perfect for spontaneous refresher dips.
Breakfast and other meals are in Rice Market, with food departments serving a multiplicity of cuisines: Vietnamese, without saying, but also Thai, Chinese, Indian, Korean and Western. There’s an excellent bakery and more of those fresh fruits, including whole coconuts with inserted straws. Similar menus are available throughout the day in the stylish confines of Regent Club, atop Sky Wing, with adjacent lap pool and Fu Bar, where gin-based cocktails are the go. In the Ocean Club, the menu is Mediterranean-inspired and based on fresh seafood. Rum is a neat complement here.
At Oku, chef Andy Huynh, Vietnam-born but California-raised, prepares a Japanese omakase dining experience with a French twist. After hours, push on a speakeasy door to enter Bar Jade, a nook with a knack of serving end-of-night gems. Try an Emerald, with splashes of apricot-infused vodka, hazelnut liqueur, limoncello, pistachio and mint.
If there’s ever a hint of guilt, the Health Club atop Ocean Wing has a well-equipped gym, yoga pavilion and 50m pool. At the Spa, from a range of treatments I select a Tam Quat Reviver (soft pressure, thanks), which is inspired by traditional Vietnamese healing techniques.
It’s that type of indulgence that inspires the relaxation of a resort holiday.
The question is, how long into a stay before the magic mood kicks in, surmounting humdrum concerns?
A sunset sail on the Regent catamaran frees my spirit. The vibrant orange sun takes its time departing. Fishing boats are heading out for their nightly work. On shore, light is fading on the white sand and green hills. It’s sublime – and then a tray of champagne and canapes arrives. The vessel’s name is Serenity.
In the know
Regent Phu Quoc has rooms from about $560 a night but the website details special offers.
Vietnam Airlines flies from Sydney and Melbourne to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). Connecting flights to Phu Quoc take about an hour. Either Vietnamese Airlines or Vietjet Air flies direct to Phu Quoc from Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Seoul, Hanoi and several Chinese cities.
Graham Erbacher was a guest of Regent Phu Quoc
