US Capitol open to public despite insurrection aftermath
Despite the mob that defiled Washington DC’s landmark in January 2021, visitors can still tour the beating heart of US democracy.
As the US enters an election year, Washington DC presents numerous opportunities to delve into American history and culture. Here are five institutions to visit – and best of all, entry is free.
1. US Capitol
A tour around the Capitol is essential to any DC visit. This is where it all happens. Congress. House of Representatives. The Senate. And yes, site of the incursion of January 6, 2021. Visits start with a cheesy and patriotic 13-minute film, then a volunteer guide takes you through various spaces: a vaulted “crypt” (named for its resemblance to a church crypt; no one is buried here); the Capitol Rotunda, crowned with the 433sq m fresco The Apotheosis of Washington, depicting the first president in godlike glory; and the Greek-revival-style National Statuary Hall, which displays statues from the 50 states. Occasionally, you’ll see members of Congress wandering around, identifiable by their lapel pins. After the tour, explore the exhibits in the vast underground visitor centre. Learn about the functions of Congress and the history of the building itself. There’s also a cafeteria. Passes are required to sit in the galleries of the Senate and the House and watch Congress in session. International visitors can ask about these at the Capitol Visitor Centre. Passports required. Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm.
2. National Gallery of Art
This amazing gallery consists of the neoclassical West Building and the I.M. Pei-designed East Building. Befitting for each architectural style, the former holds older European art, up to the cusp of modernism, from Da Vinci to Van Gogh, while the latter showcases modern art, starting with a massive Calder mobile suspended in the lobby. Given the gallery’s size and scope, the only problem is how to tackle it. Don’t try to do it all in one visit. Just grab a map from reception and cherry-pick by theme, year or artist. My favourites include Picasso’s Family of Saltimbanques and Pollock’s Number 1, 1950 (Lavender Mist), as well as the room full of Rothkos. Architecture fans may wish to simply wander through the buildings. But be sure to go through the underground walkway that connects the two. It’s ignited by Leo Villareal’s dazzling light sculpture Multiverse. Excellent volunteer tours are available. Mon-Sun, 10am-5pm.
3. National Museum of Natural History
DC’s most visited museum is a favourite for kids and kids at heart. It’s so crammed with items it’s hard to suggest highlights. One literally big draw is the massive Tyrannosaurus rex skeleton that lords over the dinosaur hall. A small butterfly pavilion (a rare extra charge) draws in the juniors, while adults tend to hone in on the megalodon jaws and the fossil lab on the first floor. Anyone with a morbid streak will like the Egyptian mummies on the second floor. And among the (again, literal) gems is the Hope Diamond, the largest cut blue diamond known in the world. One quirk of navigation: you can’t walk all the way around the rotunda, so must retrace your steps or use an elevator. Consider it an opportunity to acknowledge the (yes, literal) elephant in the room: Henry, 11 tonnes of taxidermy that’s been on display since 1959. Mon-Sun, 10am-5.30pm.
4. Library of Congress Thomas Jefferson Building
Near the Capitol, and linked to it by an underground tunnel, the Library of Congress occupies three buildings crammed with more than 164 million items or put another way: 1349km of shelves of books, maps, photographs and manuscripts. For visitors, the beautiful Italian Renaissance-style Thomas Jefferson Building is the main attraction, with its marble floors, stained glass, cherubs, busts and allegorical murals. It was constructed between 1888 and 1897 to house Jefferson’s books, which he donated after the British burned the Capitol, where the original library was located, in 1814. You can see the replica of Jefferson’s library, along with many of the original books. You can also eyeball two 1450s Bibles from Germany: the handwritten Giant Bible of Mainz and the Gutenberg Bible. Another highlight is the main reading room and its masterful dome. Tues-Sat, 8.30am-5pm.
5. National Museum of African American History & Culture
Time for only one DC museum? This is it. Clad in striking ornamental bronze-coloured lattice, the unmissable building houses exhibits about the African American experience, from before the nation existed up through contemporary times. The route proceeds chronologically from the ground floor, where you enter first into the sobering Slavery and Freedom area. The windowless space can feel claustrophobic, but this intentionally evokes the sensation of being in the hold of a slave ship. As you wind your way up the levels, the tone lightens. You come face to face with celebrated sports folk, musicians, and artists via hi-tech screens and interactive exhibits. Don’t miss Carl Lewis’s track shoes, life-size hip-hop performers, and Chuck Berry’s Cadillac. The entire museum experience encompasses facets of an essential American story and culture that continues to change over time. The museum is popular, so reserve a timed-entry pass online. Mon-Sun, 10am-5.30pm.
This is an edited extract from Beyond the Monuments in Washington, DC by Kate Armstrong, published by Hardie Grant Explore. Available in stores nationally, RRP $34.99. Photography by Kate Armstrong, The National Library of Congress and others.
