Top-class service is well worth the wait

WE take off 90 minutes late, the delay attributed to "quarantine issues".

Susan Kurosawa's boarding pass for Virgin's V Australia flight VA007 Brisbane to Los Angeles.

WE take off 90 minutes late, the delay attributed to "quarantine issues".

Cabin crew member Phoebe introduces herself and apologises for the inconvenience with such sincerity that only the most churlish of passengers could stay cranky; we get the feeling that if Phoebe thought she could have pushed the aircraft into the air on time, she would have given it a shot.

Unfortunately, a passenger in my proximity is most churlish. Because of the lateness, she will miss her tight connection from Los Angeles to Chicago and she is not pleased. She is so not pleased that she bangs on and on until the purser appears and calms her down. I find it extraordinary that travellers consider it a personal affront when planes are delayed, whether for operational or security reasons.

Do they really expect the captain to be cavalier enough to take off with blinking red lights on his panels, unidentified luggage in the hold or, in this case, perhaps a health issue to be dealt with? Luckily, a couple of glasses of Moet et Chandon grand vintage 2003 (appropriately, the tasting notes wax on about this champagne's "assertive personality") send Miss Important Pants to sleep and she is not heard from again until an hour before landing when she awakes with a start and gives the purser another earful.

Meantime, Phoebe is busily attending to lunch orders from a menu that includes a main-course recommendation from Australian celebrity chef Luke Mangan (who is one busy chap; he also has a restaurant franchise on board the Pacific Jewel cruise ship).

Mangan's tip is green curry of prawns with jasmine rice and grilled eggplant partnered with a glass of West Australian white, a Barwick Estate Pemberton 2007 viognier from the winery's Collectables range. There's also a roasted lamb rack, pan-seared chicken and a delicious vegetarian option of sun-dried tomato gnocchi with asparagus and parmesan. Many airlines are now serving a snack selection as well as, or instead of, hot meals and on this flight there are finger sandwiches with three fillings, vegetable bisque with croutons and a cheese plate with a trio of varieties, a dollop of quince paste, dried apricots and crackers. Ice cream is by Serendipity, in vanilla bean or death by chocolate flavours, perfect to spoon up cinema-style while watching the entertainment system (which I fail to do, being halfway through Colm Toibin's Brooklyn and unable to put it down).

Trays cleared, Phoebe is now making sure passengers are nice and snug. She makes up the flat beds as efficiently as a nurse attending to hospital-standard sheet corners. The beds are ultra-comfortable, with an underlay and quilted cover.

V Australia, in tune with the out-there Virgin ethos, likes to be seen as quirky and its aircraft features reflect the fun factor. There's a ladies-only loo at the front of business class, a small cocktail bar at the rear with loungey lighting and seating. Lift your cup and you'll be greeted with a message: Look, a flying saucer. The menu suggests "cooked brekkie", the Vegemite is forthcoming and there are espressos, lattes and cappuccinos from fair-trade coffee supplier Republica.

"Would you like a coffee before breakfast to get you started?" Phoebe asks. "A cup or a mug?" This almost granular regard for detail is what makes flying V Australia a treat.

As for MIP? Did she make her connection? Don't mistake me for someone who gives a flying fig.

Bouquets: Would someone give Phoebe a service award, please?

Brickbats: Pillows could be a tad larger and softer; cabin is a bit too warm during the flight.

Insider tip: If flying on to New York, this V Australia service connects well with Virgin America flights, which depart from the adjoining terminal at Los Angeles. More: www.virginamerica.com.

Best deal: Book by December 7 for discount fares to Los Angeles valid for travel February 1 to March 31; from $1059, economy class. More: www.vaustralia.com.au.