Top walks: 12 Apostles; Bay of Fires; Cradle Mountain; Maria Island
Australia is full of wondrous multi-day hikes with upmarket and eco-friendly lodges.
Australia’s island, desert and bush trails are unique and extraordinary, yet international walkers are more likely to explore New Zealand. Even Australians tend to head overseas in search of adventure: 70,000 of us leave the country annually on walking holidays. Of tourists coming in, a mere 10 per cent are here to walk our trails. New Zealand’s lodge culture may be making the difference.
Despite the Red Centre, Tasmanian islands, the West Australian coast and so much more, New Zealand ranks third as a world adventure destination, Australia a dismal 15th. Vast distances and the country’s often harsh beauty mean trails can be tough. Increasingly sophisticated travellers want stunning walks combined with luxe accommodation and discriminating comforts.
The Australian Walking Company, launched last year by Virgin Blue (now Virgin Australia) co-founder and former chief executive Brett Godfrey and former Qantas chief executive Geoff Dixon, has its finger on the pulse. Twelve Apostles Lodge Walk on the Victorian coast is the AWC’s first offering. Tasmanian Walking Company (linked with AWC) operates two established Tasmanian lodge walks plus a third sail-walk itinerary.
“Australia has been great at getting people to come as passive tourists,” Godfrey says, but it’s less successful at marketing our extraordinary adventure opportunities. Tourism Australia managing director John O’Sullivan also sees adventure tourism as “a relatively untapped market”.
People of all ages want to discover the country, Godfrey says. More women are doing walking trails alone and value the security of lodge support. People aged 50+ want to do the legendary walks but also want the “creature comforts” they’re used to.
Launched in late 2012 with seven founding members, Great Walks of Australia (greatwalksofaustralia.com.au), backed by Tourism Australia, represents walks in the Northern Territory, Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania, and is committed to making our trails more accessible. The website lists Australia’s top 10. AWC’s Twelve Apostles Lodge Walk and TWC’s Bay of Fires Lodge Walk and Cradle Mountain Huts Walk are on the list. The only state not represented is NSW.
There are extraordinary locations in NSW, but Brett Godfrey says there has been an official nervousness about permitting organised accommodation in places such as Blue Mountains National Park. AWC guides are guardians of the landscape, he says, taking out everything that goes in with a scrupulousness that independent walkers (allowed to camp overnight in tents) may not always share.
Blue Mountains trails often also cross roads, while AWC aims for total immersion in the landscape. It is searching for Blue Mountains options, and is also in talks with Uluru’s Anangu elders on ideas to develop a luxury walk linking Uluru and Kata Tjuta. “We have a long way to go,” Godfrey says, but “we’re talking to the elders and they will make a decision next year. We would touch the land lightly, with world’s best eco practice — no earthworks, waste helicoptered out.”
These are the issues that concern 21st-century walkers: eco sustainability, comfort, security, while exploring the farthest reaches of a country like no other.
TEN TO TRY
Twelve Apostles Lodge Walk, Victoria
The Great Ocean Walk stretches from Apollo Bay (2½ hours’ drive from Melbourne) to the Twelve Apostles. AWC’s Twelve Apostles Lodge Walk is a four-day, 40km guided hike from Castle Cove to the Twelve Apostles through wetlands and forested valleys, via unfrequented beaches, Southern Ocean seascapes and the wild headlands of Great Otway and Port Campbell national parks. An eco-guide leads small groups (with vehicle support), explaining wildlife and coastal history, from dinosaur prints to shipwrecks. Overnight eco-lodge stays include all meals and morning and afternoon teas, with a scenic helicopter flight over the Apostles.
More: twelveapostleslodgewalk.com.au.
Bay of Fires Lodge Walk, Tasmania
Edging Mt William National Park in the northeast, this is a four-day, 27km guided trek along Bay of Fires wilderness coastline, among birds and marine life, with views to Bass Strait islands. First day: Quamby Estate to Forster Beach Camp (9km), overnight in twin-share rooms with timber floors, canvas roofs, kitchen facilities (guides cook dinners and breakfasts; walkers pack lunches from a provided buffet), private wash areas and composting toilets. Day two takes you 14km to Bay of Fires Lodge, overnight; day three in and around the lodge; day four returns you to Launceston (4km).
More: bayoffires.com.au.
Cradle Mountain Huts Walk, Tasmania
Choose between four and six-day guided walks in World Heritage-listed Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. Nights are spent in private twin-share ecologically sustainable huts (rainwater, self-composting systems, hot showers, gas and solar lighting, heating and cooking) tucked away off the main trail, with books, games, meals including afternoon teas, freshly baked bread with breakfasts. An eight-day Overland Track Winter Walk is planned for August.
More: cradlehuts.com.au.
Maria Island Walk, Tasmania
Ninety minutes from Hobart, off the east coast, the four-day Maria Island Walk (October 1-May 1) guides groups through beach, rainforest and mountain settings, via the millions-of-years-old golden sandstone Painted Cliffs and embedded corals of Fossil Bay, convict sites and the largest stand of Tasmanian blue gums. Stay two nights at purpose-built Casuarina and White Gum camps; then a gourmet stay at heritage-listed Bernacchi House, Darlington convict site. Walkers can add two nights at Saffire-Freycinet (Luxury Lodges of Australia), transferring from the island by chartered plane, helicopter or boat. On a three-day Winter Escapes option (staying at Bernacchi House, September 9 to end September), walkers can summit mountains (Maria, Bishop, Clerk) or take gentler tracks, explore historic penal colonies and commune with wombats, Cape Barren geese, kangaroos and Tassie Devils.
More: mariaislandwalk.com.au.
Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail, South Australia
Based at Southern Ocean Lodge, independent or privately guided walkers take 7km, 9km or 12km looping trails along clifftops with views to Remarkable Rocks or through back-country marshlands via lagoons, encountering birds, wallabies and kangaroos, returning to the lodge. The newly opened Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail gives guests the option of a four-hour (13km) Remarkable Rocks to Southern Ocean Lodge Walk (guide optional) via coast, bushland and inland Mallee forests, finally joining the Coastal Clifftop track returning to the lodge. There are plans to support the full walk, with provisions, drop-offs and pick-ups.
More: southernoceanlodge.com.au
kangarooislandwildernesstrail.sa.gov.au
Cape to Cape Walk, Western Australia
A 135km coastal-ridge trail between Cape Leeuwin and Cape Naturaliste lighthouses, via spectacular clifftops, bush paths and sand dunes. Walk into Luxury offers guided, small-group segments on their Margaret River Cape to Cape Walk (four days, total 41km) with private pool-villa stays at Injidup Spa Retreat (Small Luxury Hotels of the World), Margaret River produce and wines, and massage options.
More: walkintoluxury.com.au.
Cathedral Gorge, WA
One or two-day guided tours in Purnululu National Park with East Kimberley Tours include walks into Cathedral Gorge (3km), the “beehive” Domes (1km) and other 2-5km walks, supported by 4WD, with helicopter flyover, and an overnight stay option in private cabins at Bungle Bungle Savannah Lodge.
More: eastkimberleytours.com.au
kimberleyaustralia.com/the-bungle-bungles.
Larapinta Trail, Northern Territory
In West MacDonnell Ranges desert country, Larapinta Trail runs 223km west from Alice Springs, from Simpsons Gap to Mt Sonder. World Expeditions operates a three-day supported version, the Larapinta Experience in Comfort, a round trip from Alice, averaging 15km a day, “tramping, not glamping” (as John Borthwick reported in Travel & Indulgence in November). You’ll visit Ormiston Gorge, Inarlanga Pass and the Ochre Pits, meeting desert wildlife and retiring at dusk to one of three World Expeditions campsites. Roomy, high-ceilinged tents have floors, windows, solar lamps and two stretchers. 4WDs deposit walkers at the trailhead each day and gear to campsites. Guides cook dinners, such as barramundi fillets with fresh vegetables. Epicurious Travel also offers small-group Alice Springs round-trip Larapinta walks, 9-16km daily, with safari tent, three-course meals and wines.
More: worldexpeditions.com
Fraser Island Great Walk, Queensland
This series of tracks covers 90km (six-eight days’ walk) from Dilli Village to Happy Valley on the east coast. Two shorter walks head out from five-star Kingfisher Bay Resort. A 23.5km track (eight to 10 hours) runs to Lake McKenzie. The 6.6km walk from the resort to McKenzie’s Jetty and Fraser Island Commando School takes two to three hours return. The resort arranges guests’ hiking support, including transport and lunch packs.
More: kingfisherbay.com
Riesling Trail, Clare Valley, SA
This tranquil, safe 33km trek for walkers and cyclists on the old railway line from Auburn to Barinia (rail terminus) offers views, vineyards, cellar doors, farmland and historic sites, with many diverting side visits. Independent walkers have various accommodation options.
More: rieslingtrail.com.au
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