This surprising city has some of the best food in the US
One of only two locations in North America to be designated as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, this town is packed with delicious restaurants, food halls and bars.
One of only two locations in North America to be designated as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, this town is packed with delicious restaurants, food halls and bars.
1. Tex-Mex
Tex-Mex may sound like a culinary crime in a rhyme, but this cuisine has authentic cultural roots. Meals such as breakfast tacos and steak fajitas are adapted from the home-cooking of Tejano people (Texans of Mexican heritage). Chilli con carne was the first dish to reach a wider audience at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair, where the hearty bowls were sold at the San Antonio Chili Stand – run by a collaboration of women who had been serving it in downtown plazas for decades. This legacy lives on in more than 1000 cantinas, cafes, kiosks and food trucks across San Antonio. Among the most iconic is Mi Tierra Cafe y Panaderia, open 24 hours a day in Market Square. The landmark is covered in colourful bunting, pinatas and murals. A roving mariachi band pushes the festive atmosphere over the top.
2. Next in line
The evolution of this local cuisine is known as Tex-Next, where heritage meets innovation. One of the chefs leading the trend is Johnny Hernandez, who owns seven venues in the city. After travelling to Mexico, he decided San Antonio needed Mexican street food and drinks presented in a more contemporary way. Hernandez’s latest contribution is Casa Hernan Cantina, a conversion of his former residence, which opened last year. The eye-catching bar-top is carved from a tree trunk that he brought back from a trip. Take a seat in an equipale wicker chair from Guadalajara, admire the quirky art adorning every surface, and select from the list of agave-based spirits. My recommended cocktail, La Pasion, is a handcrafted mix of mezcal, Damiana liqueur and passionfruit. Pepinos is a shot of cucumber-infused vodka served in a fresh, peeled cucumber with a chilli-lime rim. Tapas-style snacks include a tasty quesadilla with Oaxaca cheese, chorizo and guacamole.
3. Taste the difference
Food Chick Tours guide Julia Celeste takes me on a thoroughly entertaining journey through three food scenes: an outdoor taco hut, a barbecue pit, and a drive-through fruit stand. “Our food scene is under the radar but it’s more sustained than other cities where trendy places open and close. Most places in San Antonio are run by families, couples or high school friends, and there are no chains,” she says. At Lala’s Gorditas, the corn is ground on site in a century-old grinder invented by the owner’s great uncle. I try the city’s famous puffy taco which is a fried, bubbly shell with a curiously soft crunch. Then we move on to 2M Smokehouse, one of the legendary barbecue pits of Texas. It’s the highlight of my week, devouring an extraordinary meat-fest of juicy brisket, ribs, pulled pork, chicken tortillas, smoked turkey and a dozen decadent sides including cheesy chargrilled corn and chicharron macaroni. For takeaway dessert, a cleansing cup of fruit salad is picked up from the window at Fruteria la Mission.
4. Variety show
The Pearl has been instrumental in changing the stereotyped culinary landscape. This former German brewery, built in 1883, has been transformed into a dining district with more than 20 bars and restaurants, a weekend farmers market, and the Culinary Institute of America, which has a student-run restaurant, Savor, open to the public. Other unusual choices include Peruvian-Asian and Italian-Texan. Southerleigh Fine Food & Brewery taps into the building’s past life with a rotating selection of 14 beers, complemented by chef Jeff Balfour’s Gulf Coast specialties such as fried snapper throats and crab macaroni and cheese. Supper, a farm-to-table American eatery, is within the onsite accommodation, Hotel Emma. In the old bottling department is San Antonio’s first upscale food hall, dishing out everything from elderflower donuts to kale salad. The Pearl also houses a day spa, fashion boutiques, bookstores, modern art shops and a vintage souvenir shop.
5. Fresh is best
One of only two locations in North America to be designated as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, San Antonio has six official chef ambassadors. Chef Jaime Gonzalez was recognised for his skills and commitment to South Texan flavours at Carriqui, which is in an abandoned, pre-Prohibition saloon. The all-day menu celebrates the state’s fresh produce from Rio Grande Valley to the coast. Try the Texas Gulf shrimp, country fried quail or smoked beef cheek barbacoa. Another novelty is the individually made nachos, in which each corn chip is tidily topped with the perfect amount of beans, cheddar cheese and jalapenos. Ask for a tour of the custom-made pit, grill and smoker, fuelled by native oak, pecan and mesquite. The “barbecue whisperers” love to show off what’s cooking.
6. City sips
Texas is the fourth largest wine-producing state in the US, home to more than 400 wineries. Texas Hill Country wine region sprawls in a loose triangle from Austin to Fredericksburg down to San Antonio. The easiest introduction to its home-grown vintages is to sample a sommelier-selected flight of wines at Re:Rooted 210 Urban Winery. This stylish tasting room is in the city’s Hemisfair neighbourhood, where knowledgeable staff provide tableside service and tasting notes. An advanced kegged system allows these world-class wines to be enjoyed by the glass. On a sunny day, sit outside and pair your albarino or aglianico with a cheese and charcuterie board.
7. Cream of the crop
The Creamery is a new complex in a redeveloped Art Deco dairy warehouse. Opened in January, each of the five venues has a distinct vibe, so you can move around according to your mood. Lunatique, despite its name, is an elegant rooftop garden bar to see the sunset or views of the San Antonio Riverwalk. In the basement, DJs pump 80s and 90s hits at Easy Baby Underground, a sexy space with VIP tables and neon-lit walls displaying nostalgic memorabilia. Amelia Social Lounge is more sophisticated, specialising in classic cocktails, wine and jazz. European-inspired Creme is best for a quiet coffee or prosecco. No reservations are required for the casual dining concept, Hook, where food and drinks are ordered at the bar.
8. Jump to it
Technically, Hopscotch is an immersive art gallery, but it’s a fun place to get all your senses buzzed. Strobe lights, mirrored rooms and mind-bending installations enhance the experience. Sprawling across 1800sq m, Hopscotch has 14 exhibits and a bar, and visitors are encouraged to bring their drinks through the galleries. Wander through a cave made from 86,000 upcycled plastic bags; paint walls with laser graffiti; play in a LED-lit ball pit; dance in your own music video; and listen to people’s shocking secrets (or record your own) on retro payphones in a dark, creepy room. Finish on the patio, which often hosts live bands and food trucks. Signature cocktails and mocktails have names inspired by the art, such as Altered Dimension, Parallel Universe and Celestial Unicorn. Tickets must be booked in advance.
9. Fast fixes
For a quick bite, head to one of the food-truck parks with a permanent collection of gourmet vans. The Block, near the University of Texas at San Antonio campus, has top chefs serving tasty dishes prepared from fresh ingredients. Choose from Venezuelan snacks, chicken and waffles, or a spicy burger with blue cheese and sriracha. Vendors often experiment with silly crazes, so this is your chance to try a Hot Cheetos sandwich, a purple margarita, or pizza topped with peanut butter, bananas, raspberries and white chocolate. The covered courtyard has a bar and big screens to watch popular sporting events.
10. Bed beds
The 162-room Thompson San Antonio-Riverwalk is conveniently situated on the riverside path that connects major attractions such as the Alamo and San Antonio Museum of Art. Weekly events at the hotel include pool parties, poolside movies and aerobics classes, chef’s table dinners and wine-tasting sessions. Amenities include a spa with a nail salon, hair studio, eucalyptus steam room, sauna, and a pool surrounded by cabanas. Landrace is its award-winning restaurant with seating on an outdoor patio or adjacent to the chefs’ semi-open kitchen; the 34-ounce (almost 1kg) dry-age tomahawk ribeye is the jewel of the menu. The Moon’s Daughter rooftop lounge, with a stunning skyline vista, also gets lively in the evenings. Spacious suites have floor-to-ceiling windows with city or river views, luxurious beds, bespoke furniture and freestanding bathtubs. From $US333 ($500) a night.
hyatt.com/thompson-hotels
Louise Goldsbury was a guest of Texas Tourism.
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