Things to do in Marseille, France
The sunniest major city in the country, magnificent Marseille is full of endless wonders.
At the crossroads of history and modern glamour is the glittering port city Marseille. Dating back to 600BC, it is the oldest city in France and has developed its own distinct culture and traditions. From its thriving arts and culinary scenes to the natural beauty of its Mediterranean location, Marseille is a city worth savouring.
Les Grandes Halles
These days every aspiring Euro hotspot has a covered market showcasing its sharpest cuisine, produce and drinks. After the runaway success of Madrid’s Mercado San Miguel and Lisbon’s Time Out Market (among others), in December Marseille debuted Les Grandes Halles, bringing the city’s culinary treasures under one roof at the epicentral Vieux Port. Take a seat at a counter or on the terrace to savour everything from Camargue oysters to Middle Eastern snacks, pastries and pizza, paired with Provençal wines. Opening times are extremely social; Les Grandes Halles operates daily from 9am until midnight (2am at weekends).
Museum of the Civilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean
As cultural institutions go, the Museum of the Civilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean is a marvel. Opened to coincide with Marseille’s star turn as 2013 European Capital of Culture, MUCEM melds a 17th-century harbour fort with a cubed exhibition space laced in mashrabiya lattice by Algerian-French architect Rudy Ricciotti. Exhibitions emphasise the port city’s pivotal role in the Mediterranean, with a focus on its African bloodlines. MUCEM’s rooftop restaurant, by star chef Gerald Passedat, combines restaurant, bistro and kiosk. Alternatively, BYO picnic to the perfumed Mediterranean gardens or shaded amphitheatre, both with blinding blue surrounds.
Le Panier
Marseille was first settled by Greek sailors around 600BC. That original Greek quarter, Le Panier (The Basket), is arguably France’s oldest neighbourhood and a delight to visit today. A short stroll from MUCEM, Le Panier looms above the Vieux Port in a tangle of tall buildings and alleys that jag sharply up and down. Admire the street art, the shady Provencale squares and the decorative “conversation bars” on street-level windows. Historic shopfronts now accommodate artisan stores and designer boutiques, while packed cafes line the pocket-sized squares. Rue du Panier is a good place to start exploring.
Parc Valmer
For a break from this non-stop city and its blazing summer heat, escape to the network of parks and gardens laced along the coast. Parc Valmer’s densely shaded seafront gardens enclose a 19th-century Renaissance palace which, according to the entry sign, “symbolises perfectly the ambitions of the bourgeoisie of the 19th century”. The bountiful grounds of Parc Borely house an impressive chateau, French garden, English-style parklands and even a racecourse furnished with grandstand and stables.
Corniche John F. Kennedy
Marseille’s lifeblood is the Corniche John F. Kennedy, a panoramic boulevard curving south along the coast from Catalans Beach, with its underwater museum of statues, to the sandy shorelines of Prado, with its replica of Michelangelo’s statue of David. Playground of the leisured classes, the corniche is lined with lovely mansions, favourite swimming spots (mine is Malmousque Bay), eateries and bars, and elegant historical monuments such as the World War I memorial arch to the “army of the East and distant lands” with its giant bronze statue of Victory. Join the locals for morning exercise – walk, run, cycle, swim – ogle the architecture and the shimmering forms of the Frioul islands, sip cocktails at the cliff-hugging Bistrot Plage or book in for Michelin-class meals at Passedat and L’Épuisette.
Bouillabaisse
The definitive dish of Marseille is bouillabaisse, the hearty fishermen’s stew laced with garlic and saffron. From humble origins it’s become very much a tourist dish, requiring a minimum two people and a day’s notice to order, and priced from 60 euros a bowl (about $90, bibs included). Far cheaper and easier to feast on seafood at specialist restaurants like L’Hippocampe, in the sleepy fishing village of L’Estaque, where the day’s catch is sourced straight from the net. In the city centre, former fishmonger Fabien Rugi has insider access to the finest poissons, prepared by chef Celine Bonnieu in their quirky maritime-themed bistro La Boite a Sardine (2 Boulevard de la Liberation). At Les Goudes in the south, Grand Bar does a similar line in super-fresh fish and crustaceans served with views over a petit working port. Their bouillabaisse is one of the best.
Maison Empereur
There’s no shortage of design stores in Marseille but none matches the romance and wonder of Maison Empereur, France’s oldest hardware shop. Founded in 1827, it’s far more than a depot for plumbing and building supplies. Over time it has morphed into more of a “grand general store”, in the words of the Empereur family; a treasure trove of ancient cabinets and shelving brimming with more than 50,000 products ranging from Provençal soaps and homewares to children’s toys, clothing, Basque espadrilles, table linen and perfumes Its latest additions are tea rooms and a tres chic second-floor “museum apartment” available for overnight rental through Airbnb. Pop next door to Maison Blaize, an 1815 apothecary famous today for its hand-blended tisanes (herbal teas).
Noailles
Outside Maison Empereur lie the narrow streets of Noailles, a vibrant Arab quarter fragrant with Maghrebi spices and snacks. Every ethnicity from the former French empire (and more) is represented at this semi-al fresco souk where footpaths are stacked with fruits and vegetables and sacks of spice, dried fruits and an entire taxonomy of chillies. Graze your way through North Africa’s favourite snacks including Algerian chickpea flans, kebabs and date and semolina slice makrut, the perfect morsel with a piping-hot mint tea. You can pick up brightly glazed Tunisian pottery, wickerware and striped fouta beach sheets. Food identity Julia Sammut’s Épicerie L’Ideal is the more gentrified side of Noailles, selling specialist foodstuffs.
Apero
Apero is a daily ritual as French as the midday meal. But the obsession seems more pronounced here, possibly because Marseille’s year-round climate and abundance of terraces are an irresistible invitation to evening cocktails. The drink of choice is pastis (“flai’’ in local dialect), best enjoyed at bars lining the Vieux Port or buzzy Cours Julien. The rooftop of the InterContinental Hotel is a fancier option. And art deco Longchamp Palace makes up for its lack of sea views with a pleasant courtyard and streetside tables facing the ornate Palais Longchamp, a belle epoque folly built to celebrate a 19th-century aqueduct.
Best Beds
It’s no longer the top hotel in town – not since the InterContinental opened in a lavishly renovated 18th century hospital – but Sofitel Marseille Vieux-Port’s location, is, as the French say, formidable. Anchored on a promontory above the harbour and forts of Saint Jean and Saint Nicolas, more than half its 134 guestrooms capture dazzling sights of golden stone and azure sea. Rooms are modern and comfortable in beiges and blues, and, on levels two and three, balconies and terraces. Gastronomic restaurant Les Trois Forts and cocktail bar Dantes have expansive outlooks. Downtown is a 15-minute walk; the Pharo Park and popular Catalans Beach lie just behind. Rooms from $460.