The enduring allure of Capri
The rich, famous and fashionable have long been inexorably drawn to the jewel-toned Italian island. Fashion designers Nicky Zimmermann and Rebecca Vallance share their insider guide.
This story appeared in issue 7 of Travel + Luxury magazine. Explore the full digital edition here.
Capri has long been a magnet for the literati and glitterati, the well-heeled and well-robed, the famous and infamous (the emperor Tiberius ruled Rome from here). And it’s given us memorable fashion moments. See Brigitte Bardot atop Casa Malaparte’s monumental red-brick staircase in 1961’s Le Mépris or the paparazzi snaps of Jackie O sauntering around in white Capri pants and oversized sunglasses. This rocky outcrop leaps out of the Mediterranean with elegant cliff-side hotels, peak jet-set style and an air of exclusivity.
Camille Miceli, Emilio Pucci’s new artistic director, recently chose the island’s pebbly shoreline to launch her first collection for the Italian brand – Pucci created Capri pants, after all. Titled La Grotta Azzurra, it spilled forth with swirling prints, fringing and towelling textures across everything from mini dresses to beach cushions. Miceli’s extravaganza followed Dolce and Gabbana’s Alta Moda haute-couture presentation, and Chanel’s 2021/22 cruise show that became the house’s first digital presentation owing to the pandemic.
The island is a lodestar for countless designers. “Capri is such a breathtaking place – it has a natural beauty, a sense of fun and freedom,” says Nicky Zimmermann, who located her first Italian boutique on its fashionable Via Vittorio Emanuele. “It’s all about lazy days by the sea, long lunches, sunset aperitifs, and evenings wandering through the blissful streets,” she says. Rebecca Vallance is another avid fan. “Everything about Capri is fabulous, from aperitivo hour to the incredible little walkways with restaurants hidden in the alleyways,” she says. “It is Italian culture at its best, and offers people-watching at its finest.”
On Car-pree, as the Euros say, you quickly learn that the spirit of La Dolce Vita era rules. That means leave anything dark-hued, edgy or stiletto-heeled at home and instead embrace exuberant prints, flat jewelled sandals, espadrille wedges and plenty of linen. And don’t forget your real jewels and timepieces. There’s nothing low-key about Capri. On arrival at Marina Grande, ascend to the town centre on the funicular railway. It zips uphill through lemon groves and deposits you in the Piazzetta – the central square. Insiders suggest tapping the local porters’ cooperative to whisk your luggage up to your hotel.
But which hotel? Visitors are spoilt for choice. Traditionalists swear by the Capri Palace in Anacapri. “It’s the perfect place to unwind in style away from all the noise,” says Vallance. Those seeking a more boutique property and a rare strip of sandy beach head to J.K. Place. Or, to be right in the heart of the action, Capri Tiberio Palace is conveniently just off the main square. The freshly refurbished La Palma, relaunching 200 years after it first opened its doors in 1822, is another polished option. The 50-room hotel has swish interiors by Francis Sultana, while the hotel’s Bianca restaurant and bar and La Palma Beach Club are sure to create a Slim Aarons-worthy milieu this autumn.
Then there’s my preferred address, the unearthly paradise that is Punta Tragara, which clings to the clifftop overlooking the Faraglioni rock formations and La Fontelina beach club below. Zimmermann agrees. “Punta Tragara is my favourite hotel in Capri. The views are incredible everywhere you look.”
Beaches by Australian standards aren’t really a thing, but beach clubs offer ocean bathing and plenty of people-watching. At Anacapri’s Lido del Faro and Il Riccio (owned by the Capri Palace), it’s smart to book a bed well in advance. After a rosé-fuelled lunch at Il Riccio, wait for the boatloads of day-trippers to vanish before visiting the Blue Grotto, the island’s famed turquoise cave. Or hire a traditional gozzo boat from the marina to explore the island’s myriad grottos or stop by Bagni di Tiberio beach. Still on the water, take a transfer for lunch at the buzzy beach club Conca del Sogno in nearby village Nerano, which draws superyachts from all along the Amalfi Coast. “It has incredible food and music,” Vallance says.
“It’s all about lazy days by the sea, long lunches, sunset aperitifs, and evenings wandering through the blissful streets.”
Back on Capri, Zimmermann recommends Lo Smeraldo for a casual seaside lunch: “It feels a bit more local and has some of the best seafood,” she says. Its Marina Grande setting makes it a good option for lunch before departing, too. Come aperitivo hour the island’s narrow alleyways beckon. “Between 7pm and 9pm, stop for a drink in the Piazza Umberto followed by an evening walk,” says Vallance. “Some of the best walks include Belvedere Cannone, which is worth the extra effort compared to some of the more famous viewpoints on the island. From this lofty perch you can gaze down at the cream of Capri’s sights, including the Faraglioni, Augustus Gardens and the Certosa di San Giacomo monastery.”
For dinner, everyone adores local institution Da Paolino. “Alfresco dinner in the fragrant lemon grove is a must,” says Zimmermann. “The restaurant is known for its homemade mozzarella and lemon ravioli. And, in keeping with the citrus theme, their limoncello is amazing.” For something off the beaten track, she recommends Da Gelsomina. “It’s a traditional-style restaurant in Anacapri. It’s family-run, the food is great, and it has lovely evening views,” she adds.
Whether you visit for a day from Positano or luxuriate for a week, the hardest thing about Capri is always leaving. Buon viaggio!
Eat, Stay, Do
Eat: Dine at Da Paolino for homemade mozzarella and limoncello or Da Gelsomina for something off the beaten track.
Stay: “Punta Tragara is my favourite hotel in Capri. The views are incredible everywhere you look”, says Zimmermann.
Do: Walk Belvedere Cannone and gaze down at the Faraglioni, Augustus Gardens and the Certosa di San Giacomo monastery.