Things to do in Capri, Italy: from where to eat, drink and shop
The Italian holiday isle is a magnet for the rich and famous but there are still places to go for an authentic taste of la dolce vita.
When Holly Star travelled to Capri for the first time in 2013 she was somewhat overwhelmed. The Melbourne lawyer had taken a break from her punishing 18-hour daily schedule and had no idea of the island’s reputation as a playground for the rich and famous. Like a scene from the best-selling novel Eat, Pray, Love, Holly fell in love with restaurateur Gianluca D’Esposito, whom she met when he served her dinner.
Holly followed her heart and moved to Capri. The couple married, had two children and started the Michel’angelo cooking school on the island, one of Italy’s most popular tourist destinations.
While Capri has long attracted Hollywood stars and A-listers, including Beyonce, Kylie Jenner, Jennifer Lopez and Leonardo Di Caprio, it’s now drawing travellers who want to learn more about the local cuisine, with dishes such as ravioli capresi and the flourless hazelnut torta caprese of particular interest.
Holly and Gianluca offer pasta-making classes and limoncello workshops, as well as gourmet picnic packages for couples, friends and families who want to explore Capri’s rugged mountains, sandy coves and hiking trails.
Over the past decade the couple has welcomed guests from around the world and conducted 2000 cooking classes in Capri and abroad, often in collaboration with Eataly, a network of Italian restaurants and providores in New York, Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles, Las Vegas and Toronto.
What travel means to me
Travel for me is about opening your mind to new experiences, cultures, cuisines and potentially a new life, just like what happened to me. I was on a seven-week trip around Italy when I met Gianluca, the love of my life, and I moved here to be with him. I relocated to the other side of the world and now we have two children. So I have to say travel totally changed my life.
My tips for flying
I always take my eye mask, my earphones and a good book. My favourite author is Kevin Kwan. His latest book is Lies and Weddings, and I can’t wait to take it on my next flight. I drink water all the way as I need to stay hydrated. I don’t really watch movies; I sleep. If I’m with the kids, I also try and keep them entertained, making sure they’re happy, especially on a long-haul to Australia. The last time, we did homework the whole way. That was a fun flight.
The place for coffee
When I go into Capri, I love having a coffee at Il Piccolo. When it’s busy, I head up to the balcony on the top floor, which has a view over the main piazza. It’s nice and quiet up there, and you get to see the world come and go.When it’s not so busy in the winter months, we huddle by the heaters downstairs. The piazza is the meeting place of Capri, the living room of the world.
Travel changed my attitude to food
Before I met Gianluca, I didn’t cook at all. Now I’m lucky to have a husband who cooks for me. He has totally changed my perspective on food and now we even grow our own produce. We are passionate about the local cuisine and want to make the island more sustainable, because agriculture has declined so much since Capri became a tourist resort. It was food that brought us together and we want to share that with the rest of the world.
Favourite for shopping
I don’t shop much, but when I do, I want something of quality that will last a long time. My favourite buys are the beautiful tailor-made dresses from La Parisienne. The sisters who run the store are lovely. They still do their tailoring on site and have beautiful fabrics.
It’s a special place. On the walls you can see photos of Jackie Kennedy, who had her famous Capri pants made there. I go for the beautiful prints and their unique tailoring.
My secret spot on Capri
No matter how busy Capri is, there are places where you can still feel like the whole island is yours. I love the Cetrella Valley. If you take the chairlift to Monte Solaro you can walk down to a beautiful picnic area. There is a church perched on the cliff and you feel like you are half way to heaven, between the sky and the sea. They have a Chestnut Festival there in October, and it’s a beautiful place for a community event.
Dining on the mainland
A Figlia di Marenaro is in a local neighbourhood of Naples (about 90 minutes by ferry from Capri) and I love the atmosphere. You don’t need to make a reservation and it’s always bustling, even at 11pm. The owner, Assunta, is always there, so that makes it much more personal. The seafood is great. Neapolitan musicians come and play around the tables. I love it.
A place in my heart
Marina Piccola is a picturesque, pebbled beach where Gianluca’s family has spent their summers for three or four generations, and where my children now spend theirs.
I look at my children growing up against the backdrop of the Faraglioni rocks and it’s so sentimental for us. That’s my favourite nook on the island. So many of our memories are there, especially in summer, and in the winter we walk down there after long Sunday lunches. It’s invigorating in the summer, and sometimes wild in the winter.
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