The Mandarin Oriental hotel in Mayfair, London, hides luxury and style
This new property is an example of quiet luxury in Mayfair and perfectly located near Soho, Knightsbridge and Belgravia. But is it worth the price? We find out.
The first newbuild hotel in London’s Mayfair in more than a decade, the latest Mandarin Oriental, is almost hidden on Hanover Square. On arrival, I walk straight past it, searching for a grander exterior.
Red brick seems too restrained for one of the world’s most luxurious brands. The entrance is set back from the street, with cars parked in front on the footpath-cum-driveway. The only giveaway, a stylish doorman who gives me a knowing nod that I’m at the right place.
Designed by RSHP, renowned for London’s Millennium Dome and the Centre Pompidou in Paris, the architect’s brief was “contemporary townscape” to fit in with the historic urban grain of neighbouring Georgian terraces. As the city’s second Mandarin Oriental, it bears little resemblance to its extravagant sister at Hyde Park. This new property is smaller but spacious, modern and more affordable, largely because it lacks knockout views (although a rooftop bar, opening on November 11, will fill that void).
The beauty lies within Mandarin Oriental Mayfair, and its location is supremely central. Soho is to the east, Knightsbridge and Belgravia to the west, Fitzrovia and Marylebone to the north, Piccadilly and St James to the south. Between Bond and Regent streets, it’s moments from flagship designer boutiques, swanky clubs and restaurants. Art lovers will find more than 50 galleries and the Royal Academy within a 10-minute stroll.
Freshly revitalised Hanover Square serves as its front yard and inspiration. Established in 1717, the historic garden influenced the choice of green Ming marble for the lobby’s spiral staircase and the subterranean spa. Even the guestrooms’ silk wallpaper is handpainted with magnolias as a tribute to the trees across the road.
Another tantalising drawcard is the Korean-Japanese cuisine of the hotel’s two restaurants by Akira Back, whose empire spans more than 25 locations from Dubai to the Bellagio, Las Vegas. Born in Korea and raised in Aspen, the former pro snowboarder turned to carving it up on the culinary scene in Seoul, where he earned his first Michelin star.
This outpost uses the same name, Dosa, for its 14-seat private dining room, tucked behind a closed door on the lower ground floor. The venue doesn’t need to be booked out by one group, allowing people to reserve individual spots at the counter-style table set around an open kitchen. The sole sitting at 7pm presents an eight-course tasting menu (£185/$360), which can be optionally matched with wines, sake and a pear cider (£145).
A larger restaurant, simply called Akira Back, sprawls across a triple-height atrium. During the day, sunlight beams through the glass roof to brighten this striking space by Tokyo-based design firm Curiosity, before dimming to a glam ambience in the evening. An abstract artwork behind the bar was created by the chef’s mother, artist Young Hee Back.
Breakfast features Asian delicacies alongside British classics. My recommendations are the warm kimchi, ham and cheese roll, or the pine-nut porridge with mushrooms and spring onion. An exquisite bento box contains salmon teriyaki, spinach salad, onigiri, egg castella, sliced fruit and berries, plus a cup of miso soup.
Lunch and dinner have similar menus of sharing plates and mains. The signature entree is tuna sashimi pizza on a wafer-thin crust topped with umami aioli and truffle oil. Dishes exclusive to Mayfair include lobster with pickled shimeji, a Cornish seaweed salad, and Highland wagyu striploin with yuzu kosho jus. On a busy night, the efficient waiters and sommelier keep our orders flowing. We also love the opportunity to sample interesting wines, from Austria to Iran, by the glass.
In the adjacent ABar Lounge, DJs play on Thursday to Saturday nights, and bartenders wear funky shirts embroidered with dragons. The cocktails and international collection of whiskies are highlights. Try a Suika Sour of lemongrass vodka and watermelon sake, or My Fair Geisha blending Roku gin, shiso, Campari and champagne.
A true sanctuary, the spa is underground to avoid wasting prime real estate. The 25m pool is the longest in Mayfair, enchantingly surrounded by lantern-style lights. Intended to evoke the shore of a beach, the tiles graduate from light to dark blue, creating the illusion of shallowness at one end.
A vitality pool has a neck massage jet and underwater seating to comfortably recline in the bubbling, heated water. After a session in the sauna and steam room, I bliss out for 90 minutes with a personalised massage and facial.
Among other treatments is binaural vibroacoustic therapy (£80 for a strangely specific 22 minutes), where you lie on a heated waterbed, wearing headphones to listen to soothing beats for stress release, mindfulness or a power nap.
Studio Indigo designed the 50 elegant guestrooms and 77 serviced apartments, which can be rented out by the residents, especially if it’s their second (or third) home. This is the first Mandarin Oriental where the private residences are so connected to the hotel, sharing communal spaces such as the gym and spa.
A serene sense of home permeates the suites, with muted tones of cream and blue, and a subtle touch of chinoiserie to reference the brand’s heritage. Comforts include a super-king bed, separate living area, complimentary minibar, floor-to-ceiling windows, and a marble bathroom with tub, walk-in shower and Japanese toilet.
Mandarin Oriental is so cool its logo is a fan, and Mayfair has its own version handcrafted by the nearby House of Vivienne Westwood. The original hangs at the entrance, while in my room it’s replicated on postcards and a shopping bag. It’s safe to say I’m a fan, too.
In the know
Mandarin Oriental Mayfair is at 22 Hanover Square, London; rooms from £1000 ($1940) a night. Some of the 77 residences can be booked for a seven-night minimum stay. The Elizabeth Line connects directly from Heathrow to Bond Street Station in 30 minutes.
Louise Goldsbury was a guest of Mandarin Oriental.
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