The Dubai side trip everyone should experience
A landmark desert lodging on the outskirts of Dubai is reborn as a luxe oasis with polished villas, world-class restaurants and spirited activities like camel-trekking.
If you’ve ever fancied bedding down like a Bedouin – a bohemian Bedouin with access to plush linens, plunge pools and oud-scented lotions – venture 45-minutes outside of Dubai. Out here the urban sprawl of the megalopolis reverts to undulating sand dunes, grazing camels and twitching falcons. It’s home to Bab Al Shams Desert Resort, a legendary bivouac with crenellated walls, wooden gates and a storybook fantasy world swirling within. The United Arab Emirates has a cluster of oasis-like lodges but none as venerated as this one.
Launched in 2004, the resort was recently reimagined by Kerzner International, the parent company of One&Only, with a more is Moorish ethos. Kerzner updated the communal zones, spiced up the culinary offerings, and instilled the 115 rooms with midnight-blue and jewel-toned accents. This season, the group has also unveiled eight new villas. With their controlled palette and subtle celestial theme, they are a stylistic departure from the hotel. “The villas are all about the moon, the stars and the light that shifts beautifully throughout the day,” Jacques Le Roux, the resort’s general manager, told me.
As we toured the polished pods, with one- and two-bedroom configurations, Le Roux pointed out their sky oculi, clerestory windows, and curvaceous walls informed by nomadic tents. Dubai-based studio Anarchitect designed the exteriors to blend into the dunes, while interiors maven Delfina Cortese ensured the living spaces entice guests with earthy hues, ombre rugs, alabaster sconces and walnut furnishings. Set back from the property, they are equipped with private pools, outdoor fireplaces and an air of splendid detachment. “There is a client who prefers privacy,” added Le Roux.
But even the most reclusive guest would be remiss in not exploring the resort’s pool, spa and exceptional eateries. All-day Zala serves flavourful fare, such as freshly baked za’atar manakish, Ninive excels at pan-Arabic dishes such as fattoush salad and slow-cooked lamb, while Anwā is a rakish rooftop lounge with Asian-inflected bites and mezcal cocktails. Al Hadheerah, meanwhile, is fine-dining as theatre. The mezze had barely appeared before the performances lit up its outdoor stage – from a spinning Sufi to a high-kicking quartet to a riveting set piece that involved men on horseback reenacting a tribal battle. Bigger – and wittier – than Ben Hur.
On the edge of the Al Marmoom Desert Conservation Reserve, a sprawling nature sanctuary, Bab Al Shams makes the most of its location. Hot-air ballooning, horse-riding, camel-trekking, fat-biking, as well as whimsical pursuits like falconry and archery, are on offer. One morning, I hopped into a jeep with recreational manager Willem Du Plooy, a hale South African with a lead foot. We raced by Arabian oryxes, sand gazelles and a dromedary pen strangely empty of its residents. Eventually, we encountered a caravan of camels, feasting on dry grass with faraway expressions. “They’re wanderers,” said Du Plooy with appreciation. Maybe there was a lesson to be learned in breaking free of the herd for a decadent adventure. babalshams.com
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