The best restaurant in Italy according to a chef
Italian-born Australian-based chef Rosy Scatigna shares her favourite places to eat in her home country as well as some hidden gems in Barcelona.
It wasn’t until Rosy Scatigna was studying law at the University of Turin in northern Italy that she discovered her passion for cooking. Now based in Australia as Development Chef for hotel group Accor, she has fond childhood memories of enjoying focaccia and cakes baked in the wood-fired oven of her family home in Ceglie Massapica in southern Italy’s bountiful Puglia region.
But while Scatigna used to watch her mother – the “queen of the kitchen” – prepare meals, she says she never worked beside her. “So when I went away to uni I realised I didn’t know how to cook. I started calling my mother and asking her ‘how do you do this and how do you do that?’. And she would say ‘I do everything by my eyes Rosy, it’s so simple’,” Scatigna laughs.
Determined to learn, Scatigna threw herself into researching food and wine. “I realised the creativity that came from cooking was what I was looking for – it made me feel very happy and satisfied. Law was a bit boring for me.” As soon as she completed her law degree, Scatigna headed to Italian cuisine school ALMA to study, graduating with first-class honours. After spending a further two years mastering pub food at a two-Michelin-star pub The Hand & Flowers in the UK, the chef migrated to Australia.
Living at Sydney’s popular Manly beach, the energetic Scatigna learnt to surf while continuing to advance her career. “Many chefs start working when they are 16 but I started at 24 so I always felt I had to really focus if I wanted to achieve my goals,” she says.
Scatigna was appointed Chef de Partie at Sydney’s Aria, before following the restaurant’s Head Chef Joel Bickford to Shell House where she became Senior Sous Chef. In 2023, Scatigna achieved her dream of becoming a head chef by the age of 30, taking the top job at Accor’s Hotel Morris in Sydney. She became Development Chef at Accor last year – a position that draws on her creative skills as she oversees the opening and relaunch of a range of venues, including Hacienda Bar & Lounge at Pullman Quay Grand hotel overlooking Sydney Harbour.
My work at Hacienda Bar & Lounge
When I first stepped into Hacienda it felt like being on holidays without being on holidays – it’s where the energy of Latin America meets the urban cool of Sydney. It’s vibrant but approachable, so I tried to put this feeling into the food with dishes like manchego arepas (corn and cheese pie) and a lobster prawn tostada. Plus I created a crab linguine with a charred habanero oil that we make in-house – because I couldn’t skip a pasta dish!
My favourite Italian island
Last year I sailed the Aeolian islands north of Sicily in Italy. On the island of Salina, we ate at the one-star Michelin restaurant in the amazing luxury hotel Signum. Another thing not to miss on Salina is the ricotta granita with candied capers (pictured) from Pa Pe Ro, a little bar in the port of Rinella – it’s the best.
Where I eat in Barcelona
Barcelona and San Sebastian. I love their food scenes but both cities also have a magical atmosphere and everyone seems very relaxed all the time. Last year I stayed at the beautiful W Hotel on the main beach in Barcelona (pictured).
I loved eating at Bar Canete which has traditional Catalan dishes including a great squid bocadillo and Bar Brutal, which has an interesting punk rock atmosphere and amazing natural wines. Barcelona is a great destination for bars and I was lucky enough to get a spot at Paradiso, which is one of the top 50 bars in the world. I love their Brunch in the Moon cocktail which includes oyster leaves.
Hidden gem in Barcelona
One of Barcelona’s hidden gems is the garden behind the gothic Pedralbes Monastery. It’s like a secret garden – very serene and beautiful. Pack some vermouth, chorizo and bread and go there for a picnic.
My favourite restaurant in Italy
Without doubt, Lido 84 in Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda. It’s a beautiful restaurant and the two brothers who own it have a seamless way of hosting people. When I ate there I had their rigatoni cacio e pepe cooked and served in a pork bladder and a roasted black garlic risotto served with a red fruit coulis – they were both beautiful. I can still remember the exact flavour of the meals because they made such a big impression.
Where I holiday in Australia
I think it’s really important to recharge, especially between jobs. Recently I visited Gaia Retreat, a super cool yoga retreat near Byron Bay in northern NSW. I really like their attention to their food and beverage – one of my favourite dishes there was the quinoa salad with a carrot puree. I also fell in love with Bar Heather in Johnson Lane in Bryon Bay – it has a seasonal menu and it’s one of the best places to dine in the town.
Travel tips
I can’t travel without a really nice sleep mask. I have an MZOO mask for side-sleepers which is super comfortable. I also spray a beautiful sleep mist from Blue Mountains Lavender on my pillowcase when I’m travelling. If you sleep well you’re full of energy and you can beat jet lag faster.
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