The best of winter in NSW and South Australia, from the mountains to the coast
Whether you embrace the cold or want to escape it, there’s no shortage of options, from fireside perches in the Snowy Mountains and Barossa, to a rainforest retreat up north.
Whether you embrace the cold or seek to escape it, there’s no shortage of options for local holidays in the cooler months. We’ve scoured the country for prize picks and must-see events. Here’s where to go in NSW and South Australia.
NSW
Sydney
The NSW capital might be considered the ultimate Aussie summer destination but its allure remains strong across the cooler months. Bondi Beach swaps bikinis for beanies during a two-week festival (July 5-21) replete with theatre, comedy and live music, ice-skating rink and ferris wheel. You can get your skates on, too, at the Darling Harbour Winter Festival (July 6-21), which features a program of adventure films plus DJ beats. Choose a hotel with a top-notch spa for the perfect defrost – The Langham, Crown Sydney, Capella and QT Sydney hit the spot.
Northern Beaches
It’s a dream fit: whale-watching from a balcony of the historic Jonah’s hotel at a Sydney beach named for the cetacean (with a headland that resembles one). June-July-early August is the peak time for the northern migration of the humpbacks from cold southern waters to the warmer Pacific, with mums and their calves returning south in October-November. Jonah’s, a hospitality mainstay at Whale Beach since the 1920s, offers stylish “Hamptons meets French Riviera” accommodation and top-notch dining.
Riverina
The window seat of a guestroom at Gundagai’s Flash Jacks, boutique lodgings in a converted 1888 convent, is perfect to nestle in the winter sun. But there’s much to explore in this town, roughly halfway between Sydney and Melbourne on the Hume Highway and a place at the heart of Aussie folklore. Think: dog on a tucker box, tracks to the Murrumbidgee River and a visit to the restored Niagara Cafe, an Art Deco gem. Pencil in Sunday roast lunch at Three Blue Ducks, Nimbo Fork Lodge.
South Coast
Berry, a heritage village two hours’ drive from Sydney, is the perfect spot between the green rolling hills and the sea. More than just a break on the way to Jervis Bay or the Southern Highlands, the town has been a foodie destination since the Berry Donut Van started serving hot jam and cinnamon donuts in 1974. Customers have been queuing regularly outside Milkwood Bakery since 2012, with its pies, sausage rolls, croissants and sourdough bread worth the wait. There are restaurants, pubs and a weekly farmers market – perfect for stocking up for a weekend away at the retro Berry View hotel or one of the multitude of holiday rentals in the area.
Hunter Valley
The state’s best-known wine-growing area, a hop northwest from Sydney, shines year-round. Aside from the attraction of cellar-door visits, food is a parallel focus, including award-winning chefs presiding over restaurants set amid the vines. For a gourmet gallivant, consider chef Troy Rhoades-Brown’s Muse at Hungerford Hill Wines. Other highlights include farms specialising in the likes of llamas or lavender. Hide away at The Cedars, a broad estate with five fully equipped villas at Mount View in the Hunter’s southern realms.
Central Tablelands
The city of Orange in the central west blends country charm with sophisticated shopping, wineries and dining. For retail therapy consider the brightly hued fashion and homewares at Jumbled, the eclectic collection at Mary & Tex Curious Emporium, and designer labels at Cint Boutique. Wineries making their mark in the region include Rowlee, Printhie Estate and Borrodell. Find fine dining at Lucetta and the Peacock Room or stock up on supplies from the bulging shelves at the Agrestic Grocer. Stay in the self-contained Sona, a smartly renovated former bank that sleeps 10 in the nearby village of Molong.
You can have fun practising your fire-master skills at Wilga Station, a picturesque 81ha sheep farm just 12 minutes’ drive from Bathurst. Two hilltop stays – one a grass-roofed couple’s retreat with a newly installed outdoor bath and shower, the other a five-bedroom, Australiana-infused getaway fashioned from a corrugated-iron shearing shed – include wood-burning stoves. Wander down to the willow-lined creek or strike out for Mayfield Garden near Oberon. Afterwards, enjoy lunch at The Rockley Pub where celebrity chef owner Matt Moran just might be working the floor.
Snowy Mountains
Located halfway between Jindabyne and Thredbo resort on the Alpine Way, Tinkersfield puts you in the heart of the Snowies, surrounded by pristine bushland. The ski slopes are a short drive away but the mountains remain accessible to those who favour more leisurely pursuits. Take Merritts Gondola up to a hut for a Bavarian-style feast or ride the Alpine Coaster. Further afield, browse the outdoor stores in Jindy, sip schnapps at Wildbrumby Distillery or take a drive to the historic hamlet of Dalgety. Tinkerfield’s six cabins can accommodate two to 11 guests, with cosy interiors featuring wood burners, clawfoot baths and kitchen facilities – no need to brave the cold if you don’t want to.
Outback
Winter is outback season – in other words, it’s the optimal time to explore Broken Hill, where summer temperatures wilt even the hardiest visitors. The Silver City’s most luxe digs are in the south end of town, on the airport side of the monolithic mullock heap and across the road from the retro Bell’s Milk Bar. Don’t drop your lime spider when you first crack open the door to Broken Hill Outback Church Stay. The Romanesque former house of prayer features a jaw-dropping, double-height, all-white living area.
New England
The sense of arrival is magnified when guests clap eyes on the arresting landscape surrounding the off-grid Gabarraa, 15km from Tenterfield. Flames are already warming the hot tub, and wine begs to be poured. Gabarraa means “sacred stone” in the language of the Gamilaraay people, and granite formations dot the 60ha property. Do little but watch the morning mist rise, or a lot, exploring the surrounding national parks, mountain biking and stargazing. Private yoga, massages and picnics from Stonefruit bar can also be arranged.
Tweed Region
Set within the Gondwana rainforests, the adults-only bungalows and lodges at Crystal Creek Rainforest Retreat have been elegantly refurbished for the perfect winter getaway. Deep baths and in-room dining by a new chef add to their allure. A recently opened wine bar, stocked with more than 1000 bottles, creates a laid-back gathering place. From here, explore the rainforest tracks onsite or use the retreat as a reward after tackling the new 42km Gidjuum Gulganyi trail in the Tweed-Byron hinterland. For more placid pursuits, head to Tweed Regional Gallery, where Ben Quilty’s portrait of Margaret Olley is showcased.
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Adelaide
Sydney doesn’t have a monopoly on clever urban light displays. The South Australian capital’s Illuminate festival (July 2-20) blends technology, art and music, sending luminous visions across landmark buildings. Firepits create toasty meeting points for drinks and street food at Base Camp in the laneways district.The Botanic Garden will be transformed by the lasers and projections for Night Visions; top off the evening with a specially designed menu at Botanic Lodge. Meanwhile, Hundreds of drones will take to the sky for a one-off performance at Adelaide Oval on July 18. For a stay with French flair, try the Sofitel.
Kangaroo Island
Nature eclipses all else on this magic isle, from the 500 million-year-old wind-gouged granite formations known as the Remarkable Rocks in Flinders Chase National Park to the colony of basking seals at Admiral’s Arch, dozing koalas at Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, and sturdy sealions lolling at Seal Bay Conservation Park. Book an adventure with Kangaroo Island Touring Co. Drop into Kangaroo Island Wool on the northeast coast to stock up on merino garments and accessories. Snuggle down at Southern Ocean Lodge on the rugged southwest coast.
McLaren Vale
Winter is the best time to taste the spoils of McLaren Vale’s diverse geology, when vines are lush and green. Pair wine and art in one of Rare Earth Retreats’ three hilltop villas. Named Stone, Clay and Slate for the stratum beneath, the off-grid abodes have been crafted with bespoke pieces by JamFactory artists. Outdoor baths overlook the Willunga basin, while interiors feature French linen, local coffee and curated artworks. Set on the grounds of Mollydooker Wines, stays include a premium tasting, with chef Luca Guiotto available to prepare a private six-course feast.
Barossa Valley
The cooler months in the Barossa call for a crackling log fire and glass of red, and there are plenty of cellar doors to fit the bill. Throw in a little slice of Provence and winter blues are soon banished. At Le Mas, in the heart of the valley, Geraldine Frater-Wyeth runs a chic four-room hotel, fringed by some of the world’s oldest grenache vines. Dinner courtesy of executive chef Ryan Edwards is a standout. The food has a French flavour, naturellement. As does most everything else – Hermes unguents, creaking armoires and breakfast pastries. Wine and gin are estate grown; juice is freshly squeezed from the orchard; the rose jam made by Geraldine’s elegant mother Marie-France. Electric bikes stand at the ready for a spot of touring along a 40km trail.
Flinders Ranges
This is walking season in the ancient Flinders Ranges. Mornings are crisp and megawatt sunsets set the rocky ramparts aflame. Sometimes a cloud waterfall spills from Ikara-Wilpena Pound. The iconic Arkaba hosts one of Australia’s best guided walks. Bush dinners are served at linen-dressed tables by the campfire. Elevated swags are snug and warm. And velvety night skies are so low you can almost touch the stars. Expect plentiful wildlife, profound silences and cinematic landscapes. And if there have been winter rains, the normally dry riverbeds may be running – a special treat.
Eyre Peninsula
Reasons to visit the remote Eyre Peninsula in winter? Oysters. The country’s finest are at their plumpest in the colder months. And the chance to play Robinson Crusoe on a private island only a short ride from Port Lincoln via amphibious vehicle. Phase one of the $50m off-grid Rumi resort sits side by side with a rewilding of the 180ha Louth Island (phase two is set to open year’s end). Come to fish, kayak or sail. And twitch. The birdlife is wonderful: eagles, Cape Barren geese, rock parrots, pelicans, quail, sometimes little penguins. An outing to Coffin Bay to don waders for a feed of just-shucked oysters is a must.
Coonawarra
From Mount Gambier airport it’s a 40-minute drive north to Coonawarra, the historic wine region known for its heroic reds and 25 snug cellar doors. Many big names have vineyards here, including Penfolds and Yalumba, but it’s family-owned wineries such as Redman and DiGiorgio that offer the warmest welcomes (tours at the latter end with homemade meatballs and tastings straight from the barrel). For families, nearby Naracoorte Caves are a trove of prehistoric fossils, from giant wombats to whales. Stay vine-side at Yalumba Menzies Retreat.
Contributors: Christine McCabe, Susan Kurosawa, Penny Hunter, Milanda Rout, Graham Erbacher, Katrina Lobley, Kendall Hill, Celeste Mitchell
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