The $14.6m NZ farmstay where Hollywood likes to holiday
Showcasing exquisite New Zealand craftsmanship, this luxury homestead is the ideal retreat for privacy, pampering and wild wanders.
Tyne is an old lady with a gleam in her eye. Her hips are not what they used to be, nor is her stamina. Invite her out for a run, however, and she’s up in a flash, raring to go, especially when there’s a paddock of New Zealand sheep that need pulling into line. Her four-legged cohorts are a border collie called Hinny, which is a Geordie word for “darling”, and Wear, a black and tan Huntaway, so it’s no surprise to learn their master hails from northern England, with an accent to match.
Sean Ellis is stock manager at Flockhill, a 14,600ha sheep and cattle station hunkered among the fractured mountains of the Craigieburn Valley, northwest of Christchurch. Earlier this year, the property unveiled a stunning $14.6m, four-bedroom lodge, replete with home cinema, infinity pool and hot tub. Sean, a former member of the British Royal Engineers, is showing me his dogs’ shepherding skills; it’s one of the experiences offered to Flockhill guests. The pooches respond to a repertoire of tweets and toots emitted from Sean’s greenstone whistle, and they successfully funnel a flock of skittish Merino-Romney into a yard.
Mission accomplished, Sean then presents me with my own whistle, made from compressed wool. He advises how to position teeth, tongue and lips but I can barely extract a squeak from the thing. It’s not even a case of whistling in the wind; just a bit of spittle and a lot of hot air. Mission abandoned, I return to my sumptuous quarters.
Designed by architects Warren and Mahoney, Flockhill Homestead sits in a wildly beautiful corner of Aotearoa, bordered by the scree-sprinkled Craigieburn and Torlesse ranges and the Waimakariri River. The aptly named Winding Stream weaves across its plains, while its slopes are scattered with lumps of greywacke that look like they could have been tossed from above. Boulderers, a special breed of rock climbers who eschew rope and harness to tackle short climbs, flock (as they would) to this renowned site. On a guided hike to the station’s stony landmarks, I’m awed by vast vistas under moody skies, the grey rocks matched by encroaching rain clouds and contrasting with honey-hued tussock grass.
So dramatic is the scenery that the makers of the Narnia movies chose Flockhill’s escarpment as the site to film the final great battle between good and evil. During my visit, another production crew is taking advantage of the visual splendour. And I discover, with a little independent digging for clues – Flockhill managers Andrew and Sandra Cullen are bastions of discretion – that Hollywood stars are drawn to the place even when not on a shoot. It seems Ryan Gosling and Eva Mendes stayed at Flockhill before me; I wonder if I’m sleeping in their bed.
The couple could have taken their pick of the accommodation with no need for argument; all four spacious bedrooms are virtually identical and deserve equal billing. Floor-to-ceiling windows deliver views down to Lake Pearson and pointy Purple Hill from the king bed, bath tub and private patio. New Zealand craftsmanship is evident throughout, from bespoke Nodi rugs (Auckland) and alpaca blankets by Masterweave Textiles (Masterton) to Treology’s cypress side tables (Christchurch). Bed frames were made from timber salvaged after the 2011 Christchurch earthquake, while diners can perch at a table fashioned from rescued matai wood, gently illuminated by hand-blown pendant lights that glitter like jewels.
There are armchairs upholstered in blanket-stitched NZ wool, and ceramics fashioned by a local artist using sediment from the lake. Statement works by Kiwi artists hang on walls of painstakingly poured situ concrete, which is softened by timber beams overhead and beech panelling. Objects of desire from overseas include Vietnamese lacquerware, two rare brass lamps by the late German designer Tommi Parzinger, and a pair of midcentury Danish walnut armchairs. It all comes together in a lovely blend of natural and homely textures and textiles within an almost brutalist concrete shell. There’s more to come, too, as a central “Farmhouse” with restaurant and 14 villas are set to open at the end of next year on the flats beneath the homestead.
After my hike, I draw a deep, hot bath and enjoy a soak as clouds engulf Purple Hill and the rain sets in. I emerge in time to find chef Craig Martin conjuring a relaxed five-course omakase-style dinner in the kitchen. Andrew and Sandra’s son, Taylor, has taken over the kitchen since my visit, but Craig’s menu is divine. It begins with a fluffy whitebait butty and ends with perfectly pink slices of Black Origin grain-fed wagyu perched on a creamy onion soubise. Dessert is pandan panna cotta with marinated lychee, mango sorbet and a homemade Bounty Bar. I request a nip of Waitui single malt whisky from the bar in the sitting room, and slowly sip while watching the flames flicker in the open fireplace.
On the day of my departure I retreat to the Den. It’s far too damp to go outside exploring. Anyway, I’m more interested in discoveries of the sonic variety on this cool and misty morning. Aside from its 85-inch flat-screen TV and enormous green woollen modular lounge, the Den is kitted out with an impressive Thorens turntable, high-quality surround-sound speakers and a democratic selection of vinyl. With a choice of David Bowie, Miles Davis and a couple of Bobs (Marley and Dylan), plus more contemporary tunesmiths – Amy Winehouse, Billie Eilish and Lorde – I’m in my happy place. I turn up the volume and browse the bookshelves, filled with tomes on facts, flora, fauna and fantasy holiday homes. I note down the details of several impressive abodes for future reference, but none seems on paper quite as idyllic as the one in which I’m currently ensconced.
As I leave, the cows are lowing for their calves. It’s weaning time and their moos are a reminder that Flockhill is, first and foremost, a working farm, albeit one that is forging a new path. I recall my conversations with Sean, who found a stress-free life as a shepherd in this beautiful spot after “24 years and 185 days” in the army. He’s living proof that it’s never too late to reinvent yourself. You just may have to master a sheepdog whistle first.
In the know
Flockhill Homestead is 1 ½ hours by road from Christchurch; chauffeur transfers available. Guests can also arrive by helicopter or by train to Arthurs Pass, with transfers. The Homestead is available for sole use, minimum two nights; seasonal rates from $NZ9200 ($8515) to $NZ22,425 for five to eight guests (four bedrooms). Prices also available for two bedrooms, up to four guests. Tariff includes private chef and house attendant, nightly canapes and dinner, daily breakfast and lunch, station tour, and the use of swimming pool and jacuzzi, e-bikes and mountain bikes. Other activities available to guests are heli-skiing, golf, fly-fishing, wine tours and more.
Penny Hunter was a guest of Flockhill Station.