Sydney Harbour National Park: next to nature in the city
It’s possible to stay in a national park without skimping on creature comforts.
Australia’s national parks are calling me. I need a dose of mother nature without giving up my comfortable bed, bathroom amenities and solid walls. Like a lot of travellers, I am guilty of not spending enough time exploring my own backyard, so a weekend in Sydney Harbour National Park is the perfect opportunity to make amends, in comfort.
Hugging the waterfront, this national park comprises North Head around to Manly Cove, Dobroyd Head, plus a swath of coastline east of Mosman. On the other side of the harbour, it encompasses South Head, parts of Watsons Bay and Vaucluse and a couple of islands.
At Middle Head is the historic Officers Quarters, built in 1881 as two semi-detached cottages and recently brought into the 21st century by NPWS with a stunning renovation to create guest accommodation, which can be booked separately or as a whole.
The word “cottage” does not do justice to their scale, with 3.5m high ceilings and oversized bedrooms. The kingsize master has French doors opening on to a deck that spans the rear of the building and takes in water views. Quality interiors and furnishings are sympathetic to the property’s state-heritage listing and the natural environment. Home cooks will love the gourmet kitchen. Mosman village is a 10-minute drive away and has fabulous providores such as Fourth Village market and deli with its walk-in cheese room, and Penny’s Quality Butchers.
The cottages offer the chance to stretch the legs on well-maintained tracks that promise not only spectacular views and swims in quiet coves inaccessible by car, but the reward of delectable dining at the end. We are still in Sydney, after all. Mosman and Balmoral Beach are packed with establishments offering everything from fish and chips to fine cuisine.
The Bradley’s Head to Chowder Bay walk is a two-hour trek that begins below Taronga Zoo and follows the foreshore. Those with an interest in military history will enjoy exploring the battery at Bradleys Head, put in place after four American warships arrived in the harbour undetected in 1839. Middle Head is also known for its military history, and is riddled with fortifications, such as the 1801 fort, built in response to a feared French invasion.
But you don’t even have to leave the Officers Quarters to delve into the past. The building was once home to Major General Sir William Throsby Bridges, the first commander of the Australian Imperial Force. Sadly, he didn’t get a chance to return to the house’s harbour vistas after World War I. He was killed by a sniper in Gallipoli.
In the know
Middle Harbour Officers Quarters is at 3 Governors Road, Mosman, Sydney. Each cottage comprises two bedrooms, with one king and two singles; $328 a night, per cottage (up to four guests), weekdays; $492 a night, on weekends (two-night minimum).
Simone Henderson-Smart was a guest of NSW National Parks.
