Reims: Champagne; Musee de la Reddition; Our Lady of Reims; Beaux Arts
Charge your glasses for a toast to the unofficial capital of Champagne.
Charge your glasses for a toast to the unofficial capital of Champagne.
01 Just 45-minutes east of Paris Gare de l’Est by TGV train, Reims (pronounced Rahns) is the unofficial capital of the Champagne region. Around 60 per cent of the old centre was destroyed by the Germans during World War I and, as a result, France’s 12th largest city now has some lovely examples of art deco architecture as well as a clutch of unique attractions including four UNESCO World Heritage sites. To get a feel for the place, take one of the English-language guided tours offered by the tourist office, from about €9 ($14.30). Discovery Walk and Reims by Night are on foot, while the Reims City Tour takes in the main sights by bus. For a free tour led by a local resident on the theme of champagne, art deco or world wars, contact Greeters en Champagne;
02 The first record of sparkling wine dates back to 1531 in southwest France, but it wasn’t until the 17th century that it emerged in the north, and the methode champenoise we have today was created, by accident, in the 19th century. Now around 300 Maisons de Champagne and 16,000 independent producers, mainly based in and around Reims and nearby Epernay, sell more than 300 million bottles worth €4.9 billion across the world. In 2015, “Champagne hillsides, houses and cellars” were granted UNESCO World Heritage status. The oldest house is Ruinart, established in 1792, and you can book a small-group tour of its magnificent Gallo-Roman chalk cellars, a historic monument, followed by a two-glass tasting for €70 a person. Other big brands offer cellar tours with tastings from €20;
03 Our Lady of Reims, the city’s gothic cathedral, is one of the most important religious structures in the country as 25 kings of France, from Clovis I in 496AD to Charles X in 1825, were crowned on this site. Despite being heavily bombed and rebuilt after World War I, the cathedral retains some medieval stained glass; however, its most interesting windows are a set of three by Marc Chagall from 1974 in the axial chapel. At Christmas, the cathedral square hosts one of France’s most attractive seasonal markets. You can find out more about the royal history and see statuary, tapestries and the remains of the treasury next door at the 17th-century Palais du Tau, the former archbishop’s palace;
04 On a quiet street behind the railway station, in a section of Lycee Roosevelt, is one of the city’s most important sites. This unassuming building was formerly headquarters of General Dwight D. Eisenhower, Supreme Commander of the Allied Expeditionary Forces in Europe, and where the Germans surrendered to the Allies on May 7, 1945. Musee de la Reddition (Museum of Surrender), as it is now called, retains the map room exactly as it was when the treaty was signed, and there’s a fascinating exhibition featuring uniforms, English-language press reports, plane wreckage and other relics from the time. A short film as you go in puts it all in context;
05 Leonard (Tsuguharu) Foujita (1886-1968), one of the most important Japanese artists of the 20th century, and who lived in Paris from 1913-31, converted to Catholicism from Buddhism in 1959 and was baptised in Reims cathedral. His friend and godfather Rene Lalou, chairman of GH Mumm, offered Foujita the opportunity to design and decorate a chapel in the grounds of the champagne house; it’s now open to visitors. You can also see a collection of his art, usually depicting women, himself and cats, on the first floor of Musee des Beaux Arts;
06 Mustard has been produced in the city for centuries, traditionally made with lots of seeds and champagne vinegar; both condiments are made by Clovis. The largest collection of champagnes in the city is at La Cave des Sacres, which stocks more than 850 labels, including local favourite Daniel Dumont. Buy some biscuits roses (pink biscuits) from Biscuits Fossier to accompany a glass. Halles du Boulingrin (50 rue de Mars; Wednesday, Friday and Saturday mornings), an art deco covered market with a distinctive curved roof, is the place to go for fresh produce, including jambon de Reims (a chunky ham terrine) from Aux Gourmets des Halles and Chaource cheese;
07 Reims is home to the 13th best restaurant in the world, according to prestigious French food guide La Liste. L’Assiette Champenoise, with three Michelin stars, is owned and run by chef Arnaud Lallement, who uses the finest local and national produce to create beautifully seasoned and cooked culinary works of art. Expect to pay at least €95 for lunch and €185 for dinner. For something a bit more low key and quirky, L’Alambic is housed in a champagne cellar and serves regional cuisine, featuring bubbles with almost every course. Lunch is from €16 and dinner from €32. You’ll also eat well in the restaurants around Halles du Boulingrin (see No 6);
08 Unsurprisingly, Reims has several good champagne bars where you can usually get a glass of bubbly from €5. Golden Bulles (9 place Drouet d’Erlon), a slick, contemporary space in the main night-life area, has about 90 labels from big brands and independent producers. Cafe du Palais has been owned and run by the same family since 1930, and thanks to its art deco interior, is classed as one of Europe’s great historic cafes; the excellent champagne list features half bottles. For a drink with a bird’s-eye view of the cathedral, head up to the seventh-floor bar of the Holiday Inn-Reims City Centre; there’s an outdoor terrace that opens in summer;
09 About 20 minutes south of the city by road is a hilly area known as Parc Naturel Regional de la Montagne de Reims, covering about 540sq km, half of which is covered with forest and dotted with champagne-producing villages including Hautvillers, where Dom Perignon lived in the abbey. The area is well equipped for walking and mountain biking, as well as other outdoor activities; a good place to start is Maison du Parc in Pourcy, which has an information point and an exhibition. Particularly interesting is Le Phare de Verzenay, an eco-museum surrounded by vineyards, where visitors can learn about the history of champagne-making and enjoy tastings;
BEST BEDS
10 Since most of the old centre was destroyed during World War I, Reims generally lacks characterful accommodation, but there are a few exceptions. The city’s smartest address is Les Crayeres (pictured), a traditionally furnished five-star hotel with a two Michelin-star restaurant in a 19th-century chateau surrounded by parkland. On a city-centre street, Les Telliers is a comfortable two-bedroom B&B in a 1920s townhouse, whose friendly foodie owners will advise on the best places to eat and drink. In the village of Hautvillers, La Chevalee offers four stylish suites in an 18th-century wine producer’s house, as well as horse rides through the vines and natural park;
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