Red Rock Hut king island: luxury and isolation in Tasmania’s coast
This Tasmanian treasure with a population of just 1600 is wonderfully underdeveloped for tourism and yet home to a growing number of high quality experiences.
In an overcrowded, overburdened world, it’s invigorating, almost shocking, to have an entire stretch of coastline to yourself, as far as the eye can survey. And not just for an idle wander, to experience fleetingly before heading back to the madding crowds. But to live, breathe, explore and contemplate for days on end. On King Island, a Bass Strait extremity in Tasmania’s northwest, such idylls are no rarity. Long stretches of unpopulated coastline are ubiquitous; neighbours are often out of sight, out of mind.
I’ve come to Red Rock Hut, a tiny house perched on a 13ha property fringed by towering dunes, white sandy beaches and wild, rocky shores. My base for island exploration has the appearance of a converted shipping container but don’t be fooled; it’s cosy, comfortable and cannily custom-designed on the inside, and externally unobtrusive on the land. The real opulence, though, is evident in the adjacent timber sauna and hot tub. Both handsomely designed, wood-fired indulgences offer a constant temptation to luxuriate not only in warmth but in the scenery.
Winner of a silver medal for “new tourism business” in the Qantas Australia Tourism Awards, Red Rock Hut is the kind of inspired initiative that appears to be taking root right across this foot-shaped 110,160ha island, home to about 1600 people. The longer I linger here, the more it seems there’s something in the air – claimed to be the world’s freshest – other than salt spray and March flies. I find a “can do” spirit of entrepreneurship in those I meet, including brickies turned chefs, sparkies turned distillers, marine biologists turned brewers, and corporate types turned hands-on accommodation developers.
The island is wonderfully underdeveloped for tourism and yet home to an increasing number of high quality experiences, particularly of the culinary and alcoholic variety. Wild Harvest Restaurant and Cooking School is among the former. Perched on a hill commanding ocean views at the hamlet of Grassy on the southeast coast, this rustic eatery specialises in island produce. Highlights of a degustation feast include “pulled crayfish” – delicate strips of moist lobster – as well as abalone with seaweed. From the island’s rolling bush and farmlands come flavoursome, if naturally a little tough, wild bush turkey, as well as more traditional seared, aged and tender King Island scotch fillet. Personable head chef Ian Johnson (that former brickie) escapes from the kitchen of his atmospheric restaurant to explain the dishes and how they relate to his island-centric, foraging and fresh philosophy.
King Island is home to two world-class golf courses, and I dine on my second night at Cape Wickham Golf Links. Again, the views are astounding, this time taking in Australia’s tallest lighthouse. And again I feed my addiction for the island’s crayfish, this time served with linguine with a rich but not overpowering sauce, as well as wholesome homemade fish cakes.
Visitor who prefer to do their own cheffing should head to the excellent butcher at Currie and purchase some local lamb. The cutlets are super-sized and unsurpassed. It’s possible to burn off those calories with any number of wonderful coastal walks. Disappointment Bay, in the northeast, belies its name and is a joy for a swim, stroll or rockpool fossick. Or take a lighthouse tour or tackle a round of golf. The prestige options for the latter are Cape Wickham or Ocean Dunes Golf Course, near Currie, which remains open while a $35m redevelopment, including hotel, is under construction.
Between meals or after exertions, thirsts can be quenched at King Island Brewhouse or one of the island’s two distilleries. For the hard stuff, King Island Distillery Bass Strait’s new tasting room and cafe at the airport, just north of Currie, has a surprisingly smooth Martha’s Moonshine, several sublime gins and a zesty, summery limoncello. Head distiller Jason Forbes is “living the dream” after turning his back on an electrical career; the operation is creating waves far and wide with its white spirits, pending maturation of its whiskies.
Not far away, island distilling pioneer Heidi Weitjens offers an impressive array of home-crafted spirits at her King Island Distillery (the island, it seems, is big enough for two distilleries with similar names). It’s worth trying Heidi’s barrel-aged gin and espresso martini, while fans of the long-lost Fantail lollies have a chance to relive past joys with her Funtail Fantasy.
Beer lovers shouldn’t leave the island without trying a tasting paddle at Corey (mechanic) and Sarah (marine biologist) Brazendale’s brewhouse in Pegarah, a short drive east from Currie. I’m greeted by the invigorating aroma of freshly brewed ginger beer, but I vote for the flavoursome Red Session Ale, while a brew featuring (non-THC) cannabis flavour is another surprising favourite.
For all this grazing and guzzling across the island, it’s a joy to return to Red Rock Hut, accessed via a long, bumpy and roo-ridden dirt track off the North Road. From this eyrie, watching the waves and a windswept landscape accentuates the feeling of being “on island”.
The property, which also has a restored home that can accommodate up to seven guests, was purchased online by Melbourne-based, self-described “city kids” Deb Scott and Adrian Deehan during Covid. Neither had been to the island but it kept popping up in their online search for an affordable lifestyle property. “We took a risk and it paid off,” explains Adrian.
Their investment in restoring the house, Buttons by the Beach, and installing Red Rock Hut, is paying off handsomely, as an increasing number of mainlanders discover the jewel on their doorstep, only a short flight from Melbourne.
“The tiny house has taken off, I think because people want to get away for a luxury escape, to unplug and get back into nature,” says Adrian. “It really feels like the edge of the Earth. We want people to come here and truly appreciate the natural raw beauty this place has to offer.”
For some, being surrounded by water at the bottom of the world might feel too isolated, but it’s liberating to place a very large moat between you and your to-do lists. You’ll find much to eat, drink and do on King Island, but don’t forget just to be.
In the know
Red Rock Hut is on the west coast of King Island, about 20 minutes’ drive from Currie. Two-night minimum stays from $960, twin-share.
Wild Harvest is open seven days a week and offers a six-course degustation on Saturdays; $150 a person.
Matthew Denholm was a guest of Tourism Tasmania and Red Rock Hut.
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