Puglia, Italy: Lady Athena McAlpine’s guide to the hotspots

The ‘heel of Italy’ has enchanting villages, spectacular coastal views and history galore.

Lady Athena McAlpine, owner of Il Convento di Santa Maria Costantinopoli.

The ‘heel of Italy’ has enchanting villages, spectacular coastal views and history galore.

GO: Step back in time and explore beautiful Puglia, the “heel of Italy’’. I love walking through its valleys and along coastal paths surrounded by landscapes of red earth, olive groves and vineyards. A few more tips: discover unique dry-stone cottages in Alberobello; explore the caves in Matera; wander through the enchanting maze of narrow streets in the “white city’’ of Ostuni and visit the elegant baroque city of Lecce; viaggiareinpuglia.it/hp/en.

VISIT: The small walled city of Otranto has a rich and dramatic history. In the 15th century it was sacked by the Ottomans who beheaded 800 of its most important citizens. Its main attraction is the 12th-century cathedral, which has a remarkable mosaic floor depicting the Tree of Life. The Strait of Otranto connects the Adriatic Sea with the Ionian Sea.

STAY: Love and fate brought me to Puglia. My late husband, Lord Alastair McAlpine, bought Il Convento di Santa Maria Costantinopoli, an ex-Franciscan monastery, before we were married and he gave it to me as a wedding present. It was a 500-year-old heap of rubble that we brought back to life. Now guests can wander corridors and rooms filled with textiles and art from Asia and Africa; admire Sidney Nolan paintings and Aboriginal drawings; walk barefoot on Moroccan carpets or relax in the library. Il Convento has only eight guestrooms. Guests can relax by the pool or join me on an early morning swim in the small bay of Acquaviva, just a short walk through the olive groves; essentialitaly.co.uk.

TASTE: The essence of Puglia can be found in the small villages, tasting amazing wines, dining in traditional restaurants and enjoying locally produced cheese. I love to visit Torre Sant’Emiliano early in the morning and watch ricotta and pecorino being made; it’s so pure and fresh. And I recently spent a whole day in the countryside making fresh tomato salsa, crushing the ripe fruit with my bare hands, stirring the salsa in large pots over an open fire and then bottling it.

SHOP: I adore shopping at Tessitura Calabrese in Tiggiano with its handcrafted bed linen, tablecloths, towels and accessories. It’s a family business and they take great care to help clients choose the right fabrics, colours and trims. They can embroider your purchases and, best of all, arrange shipping all over the world; tessituracalabrese.it.

Athena McAlpine will host an 11-day walking and cultural journey exploring Puglia, which includes four nights at Il Convento di Santa Maria Costantinopoli, departing September 19. More: 1300 720 000; worldexpeditions.com.