Perth property is Quay to the city
There’s a surprising connection between this Perth hotel and the story of The King and I.
Things are developing on the revamped Elizabeth Quay, which syncs Perth’s CBD with the Swan River. Restaurants, cafes, apartments, retail and transport hubs are making this a place to be. And sitting just across the way, among the skyscrapers spruiking the champions of WA’s mineral wealth such as BHP, Rio and South32, is Quay Perth.
This is the little hotel that can. Quay is the first foray into Australia by the Louis T Collection, a group that also includes five Asian hotels (led by the venerable Galle Face in Colombo) and a Paris property.
Louis T(homas) Leonowens’s mother, Anna, gave the world The King and I story. The adult Louis established a trading business and acquired the Oriental Hotel in Bangkok. A century after his death, the company is back in the hotel business.
The Quay opened in June 2019, after the old hotel on the site, the New Esplanade, was gutted. Two floors were added, providing restaurant and co-working facilities to serve Quay’s assortment of 80 guestrooms. They peak with a dozen Luxury Studios that make the most of this location.
The sunny Sunday we arrive, Perth is sparkling outside our seventh-floor studio in the top category. Past the canopy of a plane tree is the 29m high Spanda, a landmark piece of civic art formed by a shrinking series of six ellipses. Its shape is reflected in the metallic twin arches of the Elizabeth Quay footbridge, under which small pleasure craft, river ferries and even a gondola move in and out.
All of this is being observed from the daybed in the bay window that projects subtly out of Quay’s facade. It’s big enough for two to stretch out and tinkle toes together.
With such an outside, there’s been no need to over-dramatise the inside. White walls are offset with blonde Victorian ash, while the fittings and furnishings stick to black, white and grey, contrasted by a pair of tan leather chairs. Cleverly, they haven’t compromised the room’s openness with a closet. Instead, hanging space, drawers, desk, the tiny fridge and safe are part of an open shelving unit. This room is more than 41sq m and feels it.
The vast bathroom is impressive, with a walk-in shower with both handheld and rain heads, a vanity with oodles of space to lay out one’s unguents, and an egg-shaped bath.
Quay has no gym or pool. This is a place to sleep soundly and, once rested, eat well. HQ restaurant sits on the 10th floor, with a terrace running the full width of the building. COVID has cut its opening hours to Thursday to Saturday evenings but staff find me a menu and point out the bestsellers. To start, bao buns with either mushroom, pork or barramundi, followed by smoked duck breast or short beef ribs with pickled eggplant and black beans. It’s back to bao buns for dessert, this time filled with lemon meringue gelato and sliced fruit. You can have these three courses for about $70 and throw in a good WA wine for about the same.
Quay can still seriously cure your hunger on any given day in its street-level cafe Community, where breakfast, which is a la carte only but available all day, includes one of the best dishes I’ve enjoyed at any hour.
It’s a sweet potato fritter with pumpkin hummus, halloumi, poached egg, sauteed spinach and dukkah.
The other side of the table is so engrossed in her button mushrooms with marinated mushy peas, shaved Grana Padano and poached egg on rye, we break the habit of a lifetime and forget to sample each other’s choice. Only a rare establishment can do that.
In the know
Quay Perth is at 18 The Esplanade, Perth. Compact rooms from $136 a night; Elizabeth Quay Luxury Studios from $225 a night.
The hotel is close to many of Perth’s historic public buildings and parks.
Their stories, and many other discreet aspects of this otherwise booming city, can be revealed on a Two Feet and a Heartbeat walking tour. Guides can tailor a tour to specific interests, be it food, art or history.
Jeremy Bourke was a guest of Quay Perth and Tourism WA.