Pavilions at Lenswood: a romantic South Australian getaway
These six pavilions, nestled on a private Arcadian enclave, have become one of the smartest places to stay.
The name Swamp Road may sound unpromising. But it just happens to be one of the lovelier thoroughfares in the Adelaide Hills, a region not short on picturesque byways.
The road tracks from outside Balhannah to pretty Lenswood, a town known for fine wine and apples, then dips and weaves along the valley floor through an Arcadian idyll of cherry, pear and apple orchards, past steeply terraced vineyards and hills cloaked in forests of towering eucalypts and pine trees.
In the little township of Lenswood amenities are low key, there’s a footy oval, apple vending machine, and nestled into the hillside a collection of six pavilions, on a private enclave that’s become one of the smartest places to stay in the Hills. And despite the very rural locale, it is only 30 minutes from Adelaide’s CBD.
I’m booked for a brief staycation in Fika. It’s name is Swedish and roughly translates roughly as taking a break and having a cuppa.
Fika is purpose-designed to do just that, clearly offering the ultimate bucolic weekend away. Adults only, the retreat sleeps up to four in two ensuite bedrooms with extensive living areas indoors and out, an incredibly well-equipped kitchen, minibar stocked with Adelaide Hills wine and spirits as well as a sauna and a lovely plunge pool overlooking the property’s small lake. My nearest neighbours are Harold and Earl the hairy coos (otherwise known as Highland cattle) and a small herd of alpacas, the latter housed in a field beside Fika. Breakfast with these cute, curious creatures is an optional extra where a table is set up in the paddock. I cannot, however, attest to the alpacas’ table manners.
The Pavilions at Lenswood opened just before the pandemic with two villas and has expanded to include a total of six architecturally designed retreats, spaced out to provide plenty of privacy. Each is styled differently, variouslyreferencing Swiss chalets, Japanese ryokan or in Fika’s case a riff on Scandinavian hygge, or cosiness. All but Fika sleep one couple and have a wood or gas fire, king bed and large bathroom with freestanding tub.
Fika is the largest pavilion at 130sq m over two floors, the bedroom areas connected by a floating staircase. The mood is cosy; timber floors scattered with cow hide rugs and sleek furniture. There’s a large gas fireplace and a huge sofa in front of a giant television. The downstairs bathroom is enormous and includes its sauna features a picture window overlooking the lake.
The pavilion is fully self-contained (access via a key code), so the kitchen is readied for all eventualities, a coffee pod machine for breakfast, an ice-maker for evening cocktails. A generous breakfast basket covers the first morning. Otherwise, you’ll need to bring all provisions or head out foraging.
The Adelaide Hills is a famous food basket, so this is an easy matter; there are markets and wonderful providores nearby, selling everything from ethically sourced seafood to locally grown fruit, vegetables and meat.
And fine wine, of course, from small-scale cellar doors tucked away in the most gorgeous settings, several less than 10 minutes from the retreats. Head to Anderson Hill Winery for some of the region’s best pinot noir.
Back at Fika I’m planning my day. A bath? Indoors or alfresco? Because there’s a second bathtub in the garden, which seems to be a thing these days. I opt instead for a dip in the large plunge pool overlooking the lake and little boathouse. Galahs and black cockatoos wing overhead across a peerless blue sky while my alpaca buddies enjoy a rigorous dust bath.
Swamp Road is delightfully quiet with a sleepy rural outlook, a few cows on the hillside, the brow of the ranges fuzzy with cypress.
The property’s gardens are relatively new but establishing quickly and will soon sink the pavilions into a sea of deep green. There is also a bocce court and lovely formal garden, perfect for a picnic.
My many ruminant neighbours are always up for an over-the-fence chat, so in the morning I take the bucket of animal food provided in Fika and make a tour of alpacas, goats and Harold and Earl, who barrel down the hill like oversized puppies.
For city slickers The Pavilions offer a slice of country life, if country life were to be styled by Ralph Lauren, with world-class wine and food on the doorstep. And a community of delightful Dude Ranch companions thrown in for good measure.
TO-DO LIST
Eat
Two excellent restaurants with cellar doors lie within five minutes of the pavilions: Mt Lofty Ranges Vineyard offering intimate views to a steep-sided valley, and the panoramic Pike & Joyce, at one of the highest points in the Hills.
Drink
Hills winemakers are establishing this region on the world stage. The nearest cellar door, Tagai, is a small, under-the-radar outfit a short walk up the hill from the Pavilions. The Pavilions’ owners have also partnered with several nearby cellar doors, including Cobb’s Hill Estate and the Applewood Distillery, to offer complimentary tastings.
Try
In season pick your own apples and cherries. Or rent an e-bike at the Pavilions and tackle some of the roads featured in the annual January Tour Down Under, the first race of the UCI World Tour season.
Browse
The galleries and boutiques of pretty Stirling or Hahndorf, each town a 20-minute drive. In Stirling, be sure to visit Matilda Bookshop; in Hahndorf, Tinker is great for affordable vintage furniture, and Comida for tapas.
Essentials
Fika at Pavilions at Lenswood sleeps two couples. Rates from $655 a night; minimum two-night stay on weekends. Chef-prepared meals and in-house massages are available.
Christine McCabe was a guest of Pavilions at Lenswood.
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