Over the crowds and cost of Aspen? Go skiing here instead
This region in Japan was once known as a destination for backpackers but thanks to new hotels and restaurants, it is now a rival to Aspen. And it’s only half the flight-time.
A day after everyone has declared the end of Niseko’s ski season, 30cm of snow falls overnight. The legendary Japow (Japan powder) is our fluffy white welcome mat to Tsubasa Chalet, snuggled on a high ridge, cuddled by a forest of silver birch trees. Wrapping around the three-storey property, floor-to-ceiling windows face Mount Yotei, a snow-capped volcano resembling a smaller Mount Fuji. As a non-skier, I see no reason to leave this perfect alpine view. We have a natural onsen downstairs, with indoor and outdoor baths steaming up a storm. There’s a bottle of sake on the kitchen counter, a grand piano next to a fireplace, and a team of chalet attendants preparing snacks. The party is right here.
Our group has different agendas. The skiers are raring to hit the slopes of nearby Hanazono, someone wants to go shopping, and the rest are keen to head into the village for lunch. I like the sound of snowmobiling, followed by cocktails at the new Mandala Club pop-up bar. With a chauffeur at our disposal, we decide to go our separate ways and meet up for drinks before dinner.
Until a few years ago, Niseko was better known as a destination for snow-loving Australian backpackers, but more recently has been touted as the Aspen of Asia. Luxury accommodation, dining, bars and private tours have changed the scene.
In 2020, Park Hyatt Niseko opened in the heart of Hanazono, and Higashiyama Niseko Village was launched under the Ritz-Carlton Reserve brand. Last year saw the launch of ski-in ski-out hotel Niseko Kyo and a five-star hotel-condominium, Setsu Niseko. In August, Rosewood Hotel Group is set to unveil the New World La Plume Niseko Resort, while Aman has announced a mountainside property to open in 2027.
Our chalet is managed by The Luxe Nomad, a holiday rental management company with extensive listings of private chalet and luxury apart-hotels. New Zealand-born founder Stephanie Chai says Niseko is Asia’s “standout” ski resort.
“From Jack Ma owning homes to Mark Zuckerberg spending a family holiday there, Niseko has become the playground for the high-net-worth guest. Having said that, it is still far more affordable than skiing in parts of the US and Europe, which is why we have had a huge influx of tourists this past season, as the yen has dropped over 20 per cent from early 2023,” she says.
Niseko is also popular as a reliable destination where it almost always snows. “This past winter was sadly challenging for many ski resorts around the world with the El Nino effect, and although we did have a few odd days where it was a bit warm, the snow was consistent in Niseko,” Chai comments. “If anything, we had a longer winter, with the snow dumping until late March. As a result, we have seen a very international clientele in town, from Australia, to the US to Europe and of course Asia.”
Tash Sarmiento, an Australian working in Niseko for the past nine years, is hotel manager at Nisade, a property management company in Hokkaido. She says many luxury travellers are lured by the boutique accommodation and high-end amenities.
“We have seen Niseko shift from a traditional ski resort with pensions and hotels to a resort mostly made up of condos and chalets. As the area attracts more visitors, the need for dining choices has increased, leading to a surge in restaurants and bars,” Sarmiento says.
While these upgrades make Aspen a fair comparison, Niseko is forging its own identity, rich in Japanese cuisine, wellness and architecture. However, it’s much earlier in the process of development and infrastructure for visitors, according to Max McKee, founder of adventure tourism operator Kammui.
“For those reasons, I think it’s really important to visit with the right travel operator to get the most of your Niseko experience, especially if you want to experience Japanese culture,” he says.
As for food and beverages, not everything is new and shiny in Niseko. In the evening, we reconvene at its oldest cocktail bar, Bar Gyu, down a dimly lit side street in Hirafu Village. It began in the loungeroom of a home built 25 years ago by ski instructor Hirashi Watanabe, who has since converted the whole house into a speakeasy-style venue, co-owned by his wife Ioanna Morelli. Part of its appeal is its secret entrance – a vintage Coca-Cola vending machine. Ducking under the fridge doorway, we find a candlelit table, while a DJ plays jazzy tunes and bartenders whip up Japanese whisky sours.
Morelli, who is also a director at Niseko Tourism, says the ski destination is more like the Jackson Hole of Asia.
“World-class powder makes Niseko more like Jackson,” she says. “Both resorts also offer great off-piste options in the backcountry, but Aspen has a much more polished vibe and Niseko is a lot more casual, making it a bit more fun.”
When she goes out, Morelli heads to Bang Bang, the oldest izakaya in town, run by a Japanese couple for more than 38 years. Chai also loves this classic pub for its wagyu beef, sashimi and “the best yakitori in Niseko”.
Meanwhile, Sarmiento recommends Ebitsutei, in lower Hirafu, for its Hokkaido-style fried chicken, burdock chips and dan dan noodles. The new Magic Mountain is her top pick for cocktails, especially the yuzu sour.
McKee’s favourites are Bar Gyu and the less crowded Karabina, in an old mountain hut in Annapuri, run by the son of the owners of the famed Rakuichi Soba restaurant. According to McKee, Niseko captures the Japanese belief that nature is a source of health and spirituality, from enjoying the mountains by bathing in hot springs to appreciating local food, wine, art and people. “I think if you can connect with those things while skiing and snowboarding in Japan, you can have a once-in-a-lifetime experience,” he says.
In the know
Niseko’s ski season stretches from late November to April, with the best snow in late December, January and February. Located on Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island, Niseko is a two-hour flight from Tokyo to New Chitose Airport, followed by a two-hour drive. Most accommodation providers will arrange transfers to hotels and chalets.
Tsubasa at Hanaridge is a five-bedroom chalet, a five-minute drive from Hanazono ski resort. All-inclusive pricing starts at ¥339,000 ($3400) a night in summer; ¥1 million in winter. Rates include a vehicle with a private driver for local drop-offs and pick-ups throughout a stay (excludes petrol).
Concierge service includes arrangement of transfers, ski lift tickets, lessons, gear rental, non-ski activities, car hire and in-accommodation catering. More affordable options include The Maples, a ski-in ski-out hotel with studios priced from ¥34,000 a night for a studio in summer; ¥41,000 a night in winter.
A guide to the snow fields
Best skiing
Collectively known as Niseko United, the interconnected resorts of Grand Hirafu, Hanazono, Annupuri and Niseko Village share the one mountain. The Niseko United Ski Pass is valid for all four, which meet at the summit, so skiers can take a chairlift from one point and then return to another area. Famous for its wide-open powder bowls and tree runs, Niseko caters to all abilities. Listed below, Tash Sarmiento recommends her favourite ski runs.
Beginners
The Hanazono Symphony Gondola is perfect for families and beginners, allowing them to disembark at the mid-station and head on to Juicy Fruit, a green run that’s wider, gentler and less crowded than the slopes at Niseko Grand Hirafu. Families
can take a break and meet up at Hanazono Edge Restaurant.
Intermediate
A variety of groomed and ungroomed red and black runs provide exciting terrain for skiers and snowboarders. In Niseko Grand Hirafu, directly below the King Hooded Quad Lift No 3, you can drop into Rinkan, an ungroomed red trail in the gulley. The
trail offers the choice of navigating through tight tree lines or cruising through
wide-open spaces.
Advanced
Advanced skiers and snowboarders can discover the backcountry and side areas. Miharashi in Niseko Hirafu offers plenty of different lines with waist-deep snow on Japow days. Ski through the trees, explore big natural features such as jumps and cliff drops, or cruise through the black ungroomed run.
Louise Goldsbury was a guest of The Luxe Nomad.
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