Northern lights and Arctic adventures: a journey to Tromso, Norway
With aurora activity peaking in 2025, it’s prime time to venture into the freezing cold of the Arctic to see the show.
As a firm devotee of sun-and-sand holidays, I consider travelling to a freezing destination covered in snow might be worthwhile only if I see the Northern Lights. It is the sole reason I have been convinced to travel to the Norwegian port city of Tromso, suspending all expectations of comfort, and bracing for the dubious dining pleasures of fermented shark and freeze-dried cod. Instead, I’m pleased not only to be warm everywhere I go, but to relish classy cocktails at Just Relax bar and savour tasty scallops at seafood restaurant Fangst.
Tour operators in the Arctic Circle have turned up the heat on outings to cater to the new wave of “noctourists”, visitors chasing extended hours of darkness and the chance to see ribbons of colour dance through the night sky. My partner and I have signed up with Wandering Owl, 10-year veterans of aurora-chasing and kayaking excursions.
It’s well known that the aurora borealis can be fickle. Two of the 14 people on our minibus have tried to see the phenomenon before, without success. The pair are back in Tromso for another round, and happily so because the city, which sits 350km above the Arctic Circle on Norway’s northern reaches, is a fantastic destination in its own right. There’s so much to do that seeing the Northern Lights would simply be the icing on the cake. I never thought I’d snowmobile through a snowstorm, but that was me earlier today, zooming along on the icy tundra. Tomorrow I’ll be feeding reindeer. Even if Mother Nature doesn’t perform, I’m convinced my time and money will have been well spent.
Tonight, though, snowy conditions will present a challenge to our quest. It’s 6pm and our guide, Javier, says we’re going to learn the true meaning of “hunting” the lights. We will drive out of Norway, through Finnish Lapland and into Sweden if necessary. We might not be back until 3am, such is Wandering Owl’s commitment to ensuring guest satisfaction. Still, there are no guarantees. Travellers have become accustomed to being in control while on holidays. We pay to skip queues, bid for flight upgrades and pre-book restaurants months in advance. This tour costs about $395 but no amount of money can ensure the clouds will part over your little patch of the Arctic. The aurora borealis demands presence and patience but sometimes rewards with disappointment.
This year, though, is predicted to offer the best Northern Lights viewing in more than a decade. In 2025 we will hit “solar maximum”, when the sun’s activity reaches its peak. The sun emits charged particles that collide with gases in Earth’s atmosphere, creating colourful lights in the sky near the poles. The aurora occurs between 80km and 200km above us. Javier assures us he is monitoring weather forecasts and checking the relevant WhatsApp groups for updates. He alights from the bus a handful of times to check conditions at inconspicuous spots but none is up to his standards. His strategy is that if the weather is bad in one location, you either wait for 10 minutes or drive 10 minutes further down the road. Either way, you’ll experience entirely different conditions. That’s how active and diverse the microclimates are in this part of the world.
It’s been three and a half cramped hours in the bus and we still haven’t found our prize, so I’m starting to doubt the “10 minute” rule. Sensing our agitation, Javier invites us to stretch our legs on Finnish Lapland. He’s trying to sound upbeat, but we detect defeat. We shuffle out into minus 12C. The snow has fallen so softly and plentifully that with each step my feet sink deep into powder. We’re clambering behind our guide when he shouts “Baby aurora!” and we come to an abrupt halt.
In the sky is a little milky patch so subtle I can’t trust my eyes. My companions are using their teeth to rip off mittens, fumbling with frozen fingers to get phones photo-ready. I’m squinting and looking at my partner sceptically. This can’t be it, can it?
I need not doubt. The sky is peeling open like a zipper, and a shy green starts to reveal itself.
Hands shaking from the cold and the thrill, I lay flat on my belly on the snow to balance my phone for a steady shot. It’s so fragile, I don’t want to miss it. I look up and the sky rips open. The swirl of magnetic activity seems to grow in confidence. Like some kind of extra-terrestrial, the sky comes alive. I roll on to my back to take it all in. It is ethereal, and I’m certain my smile has never been wider.
The aurora stays with us in its more modest guise as we eat turnip soup from a thermoflask, drink coffee and warm up around a fire. We notice, only after an hour, that the snow around the fire is melting in an unusual way. The firepit has sunk into the ice like a sculpture. Where are we?
“You’re standing on top of a frozen lake right now,” our guide grins. I decide to trust his expertise and focus on the sky rather than worry about what happens when ice meets flame.
The aurora stays with us for 90 minutes before the clouds close like curtains, a sign that it’s time to go back to Tromso. We are only 100m from a bridge that leads to Sweden, so we walk over just to tick it off. We’re giggling, deliriously cold and happy. It’s been an honour to see the universe put on a show.
Tips for seeing the Northern Lights
Where to stay in Tromso: The Radisson Blu and the Clarion Edge are the best located hotels. Almost all tours use these two as landmarks for pick-up and drop-offs. The Clarion Edge has a spectacular sky bar open from 5pm Thursday-Sunday.
How to get to Tromso: British Airways and easyJet have just joined Wizz Air and Norwegian in flying to the small Tromso airport from London.
How many days should I spend in Tromso? The more nights you allow, the greater chance you have of seeing the Northern Lights. You can comfortably fill three nights and four days with fjord excursions, reindeer feeding, snowmobiling, museums and husky sledding.
What to wear to stay warm? Three layers are a good start. You’ll need a thermal undershirt, a warm mid layer such as a woollen jumper, and a waterproof jacket. If walking through snow will be required, wear two pairs of socks. Closed leather or rubber shoes are great, and you can purchase spikes for walking on ice at souvenir shops for $10. Most excursions have snow suits and boots included in the price.
In the know
Wandering Owl runs a seven-hour aurora hunt in the Arctic wilderness outside Tromso from September 5 to April 15; from 2350 krone ($332) a person (maximum 15 people), including pick-up from select hotels, use of thermal suits and boots, campfire meal and photos. Guests are collected around 6pm and returned around 1.30am.
Elyse Popplewell travelled at her own expense.
If you love to travel, sign up to our free weekly Travel + Luxury newsletterhere.
