Morpeth in the Hunter Valley a charming historic town
Charming historic treasures abound in this former river trade hub.
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In the 1830s, Morpeth became the Hunter Valley’s major port on the river trade route with Sydney. As the settlement flourished, significant buildings were built over the following three decades. The Morpeth Heritage Walk covers 25 of these colonial-period sites, such as Taylor’s Bond Stores and St James’ Anglican Church, along the main street and cobblestone alleys. In September, the walk was upgraded with new site markers and a self-guided audio tour (available on the Maitland Walks app). Pack your headphones to listen to the narrated history of each place and the people from its past. Pick up a map from the Maitland Visitor Information Centre or download a digital version. Morpeth is 133km northwest of Sydney; mymaitland.com.au.
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Considering its proximity to the Hunter Valley hub of Pokolbin, Morpeth might be presumed to conceal a few secret wine weapons, but the town has no wineries and only one cellar door, Boydell’s, which opened last year. An offshoot of its small vineyard in the Hunter, the venue also houses a restaurant with a seasonal menu focused on locally sourced produce and paired with its wines. Set in a residential area, the renovated slab hut attracts as many locals as tourists. A courtyard can be used for al fresco dining in spring and summer, while the open fireplace warms the corrugated iron and timber beams in winter. The restaurant, led by head chef Sheldon Black, can be booked for lunch or dinner, Thursday to Sunday. At other times, the cellar door offers wine sales, tastings, cheese platters and bar snacks; boydells.com.au.
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Stephen Arnott, a sixth-generation baker whose great-great-great-grandfather William created one of the world’s largest biscuit companies, has started teaching sourdough bread-making in the family’s original bakehouse. The hands-on classes, enhanced by a sprinkling of science from Allison Arnott, who holds a master of food microbiology, are conducted in the 1850s kitchen, which is thought to have the oldest Scotch oven in the Southern Hemisphere. The William Arnott Hotel, with stylish suites named after Iced Vo Vo, Sao and Monte Carlo biscuits, recently opened on the same premises; historicarnottbakehouse.com.au.
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Established more than 175 years ago, Campbell’s Store is a sprawling two-storey complex comprising an art gallery, tea room, antique dealers and speciality shops selling a vast range of crafts and collectibles, including teddy bears, dolls, war memorabilia, jewellery, hats, handbags, vintage fashion and novelty teapots. Morpeth Gallery displays hundreds of original paintings in a landscape wing and a wildlife wing, as well as gifts featuring the work of Australian artists. The Servants Quarters Tea Room, which also serves coffee and the usual cafe fare, is situated in the old residence of original owners James and Eliza Campbell’s maids and butler. Add in a few tastings of honey, fudge, nuts and cordials and it would be easy to spend a couple of hours here; campbellsstoremorpeth.com.au.
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The village of Morpeth is ideal for browsing beautiful shopfronts of sandstone buildings, and shoppers will be equally delighted by the quality merchandise and friendly service in these designer boutiques. Hunter Collection is stocked only with products handmade in the Hunter region, while the family-owned Australian Alpaca Barn’s garments come from alpacas at a local farm. Above a heritage-listed cafe in the old bond store, Savannah’s on Swan has lovely farmhouse-inspired homewares, books, scarves, candles, soaps and furniture. For the princess in your life, Fairytale Lane is full of fairies, pixies, bunnies, unicorns and fancy costumes; facebook.com/theHunterCollection.
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There’s no need to venture out to the vineyards because Morpeth Liquor is managed by an obsessive connoisseur of Hunter Valley wines. Armed with your chosen beloved bottles, stroll down the road to pick up some matching treats. Since opening last year, Swan Street Deli & Larder has become known for its home-cooked meals and sublime variety of cheeses, charcuterie, condiments and antipasti. In a cute cottage, Miss Lily’s Lollies is an old-fashioned lolly shop for rediscovering your childhood favourites as well as classic American candy and Britain’s best sweets. Opened in October, Donarch at The Bronte is an award-winning chocolatier specialising in European techniques; visitnsw.com.
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The region’s lively craft beer scene is free of crowds and pretence. In nearby Maitland (10 minutes by car), check out The Whistler, with 16 quality brews on tap, and The Pourhouse, which has an outdoor bar in a converted vintage caravan. Morpeth Brewery at the Commercial Hotel produces all-natural beers, such as Black Tractor double black IPA or Anzac ale, which really does taste like Anzac biscuits. This busy microbrewery can be observed from behind a glass panel inside the pub, but the best view in town is from the upstairs verandah. Down the street, in a blue barn at the back of Campbell’s Store, Morpeth Ginger Beer Factory is not as it seems. The beverages on offer for tastings are non-alcoholic cordials, but it’s fun to watch the old-school process of brewing and stirring by hand and labelling each bottle individually; itmustbemorpeth.com.au.
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Depart from Newcastle, about 35 minutes away by road, on an eight-hour roundtrip cruise along the Hunter River that includes a 90-minute stopover in Morpeth and admission to Morpeth Museum in the former courthouse. The captain’s commentary describes the port’s interesting history as the gateway to inland Australia. Devonshire morning tea is served aboard the vessel, with tastings of wines, fudge and sourdough on the return journey. Limited departures depend on the tides, and capacity has been reduced to 22 passengers because of social distancing requirements. Tickets, $89 (concession, $84; children, $54); novacruises.com.au.
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A 10-minute drive from historic Morpeth Bridge to Maitland passes the iconic landmark of Dr Morse’s Indian Root Pills signage wrapping around an old shed in Raworth. This underrated city is home to impressive restaurants, most notably Coquun and Fratelli Roma. On Friday nights, Live at the Levee presents performances of local bands while revellers drink at the riverside bars. Art is another drawcard. The Levee Art Gallery has works by 17 resident artists and sculptors on permanent display, while Maitland Regional Art Gallery hosts rotating exhibitions in 11 spaces. Maitland also has a vineyard, Tranquil Vale, offering complimentary tastings. For an overnight stay, Quest Maitland is centrally located and offers spacious apartments and studios; questapartments.com.au.
Best beds
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The Bronte boutique hotel, overlooking Morpeth village and neighbouring farmlands, added contemporary barn-style accommodation in September. This stylish extension called Bronte Lofts comprises two self-contained one-bedroom apartments, each sleeping up to four guests, which can be booked separately or together. For groups that book both, the owners offer bespoke tours to wineries or Port Stephens. Hot breakfast is served on the balcony, where guests are also encouraged to enjoy dinner, wine and cheese purchased from the local stores. Built in 1832 for Caleb Soul, founder of Soul Pattinson Chemist, the main terrace houses six ensuite guestrooms furnished with an eclectic fusion of Asian and Victorian antiques; thebronte.com.au.
Louise Goldsbury was a guest of Maitland City Council.
