Mediterranean cruise to Greece, Croatia
Does the clan that cruises together, stay together? Hope floats.
With all 670 passengers back on board, Viking Sea pulls out of Corfu Town. Up in the panoramic Explorer’s Lounge, a happy scene is playing out as an American family gathers for a group photo: Grandma is centre stage, smoothing her snazzy silk dress; then on either side, her middle-aged offspring and partners; and bookending the group, four smiley twentysomethings.
“Move closer! Get smoochy!” urges waiter Riri, and they laugh. He captures the moment, pleased with his perfect shot of what I later learn is a family birthday celebration.
It’s moments like this, sitting amid the convivial buzz of chatter, cocktails and classical piano music, when I wish I had one of those cruising naysayers beside me. You know the type; the anti-cruiser who has never actually sailed yet bangs on about the hell of behemoth liners and superannuated passengers. If they could see this elegant mid-sized ship and witness the wide age range among those on board, perhaps their attitudes would change. Yes, there are many retirees present, but nudging down the average age significantly are two multi-generational groups – including us.
Even though I’m a big fan of cruising, this holiday is not my idea. It is our 26-year-old son, Felix, and his girlfriend, Lydia, who have scoured the brochures and suggested a voyage together. Not drawn to the idea of big ships and having outgrown high-octane fun, Viking’s understated Scandi vibe and smaller vessels have been deemed “pretty cool-looking”. Add to that the importance of great food to this age group, and Viking Sea, with its promise of inclusive high-end restaurants, ticks all the boxes.
Nowadays, there are ships to suit all needs, whatever the age of your offspring. And with grown-up kids no longer needing to be shepherded or dragged along on organised excursions, a family voyage at this stage of life can prove an enriching experience. Days are free to do our own thing. In port that might mean an organised tour, a snooze on the top deck or a gym workout. Afterwards, there’s the pleasure of gathering for dinner to mull over each family member’s day.
We have opted for a 10-day Mediterranean sailing covering four history-rich European countries. There will be cities where trade thrived, ports in which battles were fought, towns where emperors lived and, along the first Olympic track, victorious races were run.
Kicking off from Athens, we begin with a Greek odyssey to Santorini, Corfu and Katakolon. Then it’s a speedy swish up the Adriatic to Kotor, in Montenegro. Next will come Croatia’s Dubrovnik and Zadar, then Koper in Slovenia and finally Venice. Sadly, there are no sea days, but with destinations like these, we want to cram everything in, and a cruise is an ideal way to go about it. There’s no hassle of packing and unpacking, nor the stress of travel, which is immensely appealing to young adults more used to backpacking.
Inevitably, some days stand out more than others. Our first is Katakolon, a 40-minute drive from Olympia. My son’s girlfriend is preparing for the London Marathon, and both want to try out the ancient Stadion running track. En route are bucolic glimpses of rural Greece, a lush landscape where rivers irrigate fields of fig trees and olive groves. Our guide, Athina, regales us with tales of ancient Greek athletes and the Olympic Games that began here in 776 BC. As we stand before the stony remains of the gymnasium training area, we are told how 100 bulls would be sacrificed to thank Zeus for allowing the Games to take place, and how 45,000 spectators would attend, many travelling for two months from as far away as Crete. Each runner was assigned his own philosopher whose job it was to train the athlete into the right mindset. Then came the practical rituals. Oil was slicked on the body as a protectant, which, post-race, would be scraped off using a strigil, or curved stick.
Our sporty duo is raring to go. The sandy track where up to 20 runners once sprinted is 190m long, and the pair hunkers into the blazing 42C sunshine. For a moment it looks as if Lydia is in the lead, but with one last burst Felix wins by a whisker.
Back on board and justifiably hungry, it’s time to explore the dining options. All passengers can book the two supplement-free speciality restaurants, Italian-themed Manfredi’s alongside the pretty-as-a-picture tasting menus served at The Chef’s Table. There’s also a superlative main restaurant, with daily choices reflecting each port of call, and a top-notch buffet that becomes my husband’s favourite. Add to those a pool grill for lunchtime burgers, hot dogs and first-rate seared tuna, and an excellent English-style afternoon tea served in the elegant Wintergarden, and there’s no excuse to feel underfed.
The youngsters have already purchased Kalamata olives in Corfu, and olive oil in Santorini. Now they are ready for a more in-depth culinary experience, delivered in Montenegro’s exquisite port town, Kotor.
During our early-morning sail we listen, Mimosa cocktails in hand, to commentary from one of the onboard lecturers. Kotor, he tells us, is the best-preserved fortified town in Europe. Founded by the Romans then taken by the Venetians, it endured a pattern of brutal takeovers, including a spell under Serbian control, until gaining independence in 2006. Kotor’s magical setting unfolds. From its opening at the mouth of a narrow inlet, tree-freckled limestone mountains drop to a navy-blue sea. There’s an uncanny resemblance to the Norwegian fjords, only with the thermostat turned to high.
It promises to be a particularly exciting day because executive chef Willy Moors is taking us on a market tour. Later, we will sample what he buys in the ship’s semi-private Chef’s Kitchen. Dressed in trademark whites, Willy zips around the produce stalls. You can almost hear the whisper of “hey, big spender” as pungent slivers of ham and cheese are proffered as bait for a big-scale sell. Then come fat juicy cherries and the chokingly strong quince spirit Rakija. Willy returns to ship with his loot while we explore the old town’s lanes flanked by Venetian-style palaces.
That night, Willy sprinkles herbs from a great height and performs theatrical frying-pan flourishes. Felix is encouraged to stir and chop. On the menu are a caprese-style salad of oxheart tomatoes and Skripavac cheese, pan-fried seabream with wilted leeks and olives, and, most delicious, beef tournedos with porcini mushrooms. The cherries and figs are creatively caramelised and served with a blueberry Chantilly.
Each of the ports offers something our young folk admire. In Dubrovnik, they escape the crowds for a secluded beach. In Koper, they find Europe’s oldest cafe and adorable cats. They love Zadar for its sea organ, where pipes cut into the port wall create eerie sounds when the waves wash up.
Yet above all, it’s the ship they adore. The helpful staff, the chic public spaces, and of course, the restaurants. They even favour low-key Torshavn nightclub on Deck 2 where they regularly sit among passengers their parents’ age. Mind you, the sight of my son’s face when I hit the dance floor with Lydia on our last night, is not one I will easily forget.
Louise Roddon was a guest of Viking Cruises.
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