Lomani Island Resort review: A peaceful retreat for adults on Fiji’s Malolo Lailai Island
Recently refurbished and with a new spa opening soon, this luxurious island is a quiet, peaceful haven thanks to its no-kids policy.
Let’s do the math, as they say. Four into five stars won’t go. Even when clumsily put, that’s a travel industry truism. But I’ve stayed at places rated four stars that have outshone contenders awarded that elusive fifth and I am increasingly sceptical about what it all means. During a recent holiday in Fiji, I have time and inclination to ponder such secrets of the tourism industry universe while engaged in lolling about and doing absolutely nothing else. I am good at lolling, as it turns out. My husband and I could represent Australia in the lolling Olympics but would only win medals if the contest were to involve a daily siesta break and take place on a South Pacific island.
So here we are at Lomani Island Resort, on Malolo Lailai in the Mamanuca group. It’s exclusively for adults and teenagers 16 and over and rated four stars by whichever organisation gives out such accolades. We arrive from Port Denarau via a 50-minute catamaran hop and, with eyes averted, then zoom by golf buggy past Plantation Island Resort, a long-term favourite for families, opened in the 1960s. Utilitarian cabins nestle under groves of palms and the kids waving as we pass are clearly having a ball. Our offspring are all grown, with children of their own, and we wave back at these small holidaymakers and share their enthusiasm, but now we want to lie down, a privilege we have earned.
Bula! Lomani is now in sight. And the first things we learn is that its name means love. Opened in 2004, there’s a faithful clientele of returning guests that most resort owners would just dream about. The 30 white-painted bures, all with cute pointy roofs, are ranged in a meandering row facing a long stretch of beach and separated by privacy “fences” of trees and vines that cast latticed shadows. The setting is of postcard-perfect low-angled palms, soft sand and plenty to marvel at in the shallows come low tide. We are soon fossicking in rock pools, taking care to avoid critters such as sea slugs, and mesmerised by tiny translucent fish darting about as if playing chasings. About 500m offshore, a sandbank is marine life central, rich with colourful corals. We walk up and down that west-facing beach in the early evenings, marvelling at the cyclorama of colours. One late afternoon, we join Captain Bill and his crew on a catamaran cruise and sail towards the setting sun in soft air that shimmers around us like gauzy gold curtains.
There are also newly refurbished suites with balcony or patio in a two-storey building, while the bure categories cover deluxe, beachfront and those with a plunge pool, although dipping pool would be a more accurate description as they are not large enough for swimming. Nonetheless, we cool off in ours after sea sorties and then it’s mere steps to flop on the daybed or sidle to the ensuite for an indoor or outdoor shower, the latter in a bulbous walled enclosure where butterflies and dragonflies visit, and frangipani petals softly fall. Bathing and skincare unguents are by Pure Fiji so it’s a given to emerge spelling as sweet and fragrant as a tropical garden.
Hibiscus flowers appear scattered all about our bure and messages such as BULA! WELCOME HOME are arranged in leafy letters on bedcovers. Decor is pretty functional, in earthy tones but nicely brightened with framed floral prints, fabrics with palm leaf motifs, and good lighting. There’s a lovely airiness, floors are tiled, and the lack of designer-chic falderals is a relief, in fact. What’s more important is that there’s oodles of space, very good beds, rattan furniture, and touches such as bathrobes, complimentary bottled water, bowls of fruit and biscuity treats. There are ceiling fans as well as air-conditioning.
A pair of steamer-style wooden loungers sit side by side at the seafront garden’s edge, with a sheltering white market umbrella in place. Indian mynahs, those renowned bandit birds, zoom about eyeing off our morning tea bananas. Everyone passing by waves and smiles. I love it that many of these fellow guests look as downright daggy as I do. Permission granted for bucket hats and baggy shorts.
The groomed garden estate, with hammocks set between palms, is mostly flat and easy to stroll about, with a big main pool just off the lounge and dining area, where an adjacent bar tiled with groovy aquamarine tiles serves up cocktails of the day. Passionfruit mojitos seem mighty popular. Flame Tree restaurant has well-spaced tables, a buffet spread at breakfast and myriad ingredients fresh from the gardens and greenhouses. It’s all plentiful and comforting rather than high gourmet, but the smiles behind the service and the generous portion sizes make guests feel welcome and at home, and the Indian curries are outstanding. One evening, there’s a fire show performed by staff beside the pool. It’s joyous and loud, with maximum applause.
A full-service spa is is due to open in mid-March with all the expected contemporary facilities and wellness treatments that resorts require these days. Make way for that refreshed name: Lomani Island Resort & Spa. And another star, perhaps? But let’s hope that pair of high massage beds in a semi-open, softly curtained thatched hut by the beach are still firmly in place. What fun to book a traditional Fijian Bobo massage, climb up, flop down and be flipped over by the “spa ladies” who ease away aches and knots with their sturdy hands.
We then segue to a dinner by the beach, serenaded by guitarist Kele as the cold-pressed nut oil lingering on our recently pampered bodies mingles with the fragrance of frangipani. Next morning I wake with the sparrows and take a long walk. It’s sunrise and the gardening team is raking away every leaf that’s dared to fall in the night. Another day in paradise awaits.
In the know
Lomani Island Resort is on Malolo Lailai, in the Mamanuca Islands to the west of Viti Levu, Fiji’s main isle. Deluxe Suite with garden view from $F4480 ($2983) for two guests for four nights; rates in all categories include full breakfast, wi-fi, watersports gear and selected guided tours and activities.
Fiji Airways flies to Nadi from Sydney, Canberra, Melbourne, Adelaide and Brisbane. Look for best-value seasonal LITE deals.
Susan Kurosawa was a guest of Lomani Island Resort.
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