Villa hopping in Lake Como
Having collaborated on the interiors of new it-hotel Passalacqua, fashion designer JJ Martin shares her guide to exploring the alpine lake.
When it comes to holiday destinations that embody la dolce vita, Lake Como sits high on the list. The picturesque see-and-be-seen destination swells with travellers during the spring and summer months but for a select few residents and regulars, the resort town is more than an iconic seasonal hot spot.
One such regular is American-born, Milan-based fashion designer JJ Martin, who has frequented Lake Como for years. The founder of maximalist label La Double J has recently embarked on a new project that deepens her ties to the area: designing the interior and outdoor bar at Passalacqua, the newly-opened sibling property to the iconic Grand Hotel Tremezzo.
Located in a heritage villa that dates back two centuries, the all-suite hotel in the enclave of Moltrasio is the ultimate canvas for Martin’s eclectic aesthetic; think plush pool loungers in pencil pine green and fringed sun umbrellas lined in fuscia floral fabric. The dreamlike lodgings are certainly befitting of its self-proclaimed status as a “once-in-century” hotel.
Considering Martin’s extensive knowledge and appreciation of Italian art, history and fashion, a collaboration with Passalacqua feels only fitting — as does taking the designer’s recommendations for a trip to Lake Como. From a mountaintop restaurant that boasts the best views of the lake to a rentable villa that is “truly out of this world,” JJ Martin generously shares her book of must-visit spots below.
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Go-to coffee spot: “Poletti is a beautiful vintage pasticceria in Cernobbio, perfect for a really good coffee and beautiful classic Italian pastries.”
Best place to people-watch: “Bar Sanremo at the Bellagio. The bar is set on a terrace hanging over the lake next to where ferries arrive, so you see all the people coming in and out of the Bellagio on their fabulous boats.”
Must-have brunch: “La Tirlindana. It’s a casual and boisterous little family-run locanda where you can literally dip your feet in the water. It’s a great spot if you’re out on the boat and want to stop for a classic Italian lunch.”
Dinner: “Al Veluu is one of my favourite places for dinner. It’s high up on the mountaintop, which takes a little effort to get to but has the most spectacular views of the lake.”
Cocktail hour: “T Bar at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo overlooking the pool and the lake. Tremezzo has become the spot where all the coolest people hang out in Como, so it’s always a really fun scene.”
Art gallery: “Villa Balbianello is like an open-air museum. The explorer Count Guido Monzino lived there, and he left it and all of his collections to the Italian National Trust before he passed. It houses amazing ancient artefacts, like thousand-year-old slabs of jade that could belong in the Met.”
Place for fashion inspiration: “The Mantero family’s historic palazzo, whose archives are rich with extraordinary vintage prints and patterns.”
Place for artistic inspiration: “One of the oldest and grandest villas on Lake Como, Villa Pliniana, was built around a natural spring that literally runs through it. Some of the renovated interiors have been redesigned by Patricia Urquiola — it’s an extraordinary space.
“A villa that you can rent is Villa Sola Cabiati. It’s still owned by descendants of the historic Serbelloni family, and is one of the most fantastic palazzos in Como, filled with antique touches and Tiepolo frescoes. It has six rooms (one of which one belonged to Napoleon) and is truly out of this world.”
Under-the-radar spot: “When going to the Cascata Nesso, make sure to actually dive off your boat and swim all the way in the back, climb the rocks and stand under the waterfall. This is my absolute favourite thing to do in Lake Como.”
Place to stay: “Passalacqua, the most gorgeous new hotel on the lake. It’s a 24-room villa so you feel like you’re staying in an aristocratic home. Every detail is wildly considered by Valentina de Santis, our friend and founder of the hotel (and the unequivocal queen of Como hospitality). From the tote bags to the slippers, to the hair dryers – everything is beyond.
“Don’t forget to check out the pool and lounge areas, which we designed from top to bottom. The surprising burst of colour amid the supreme sophistication of the rest of the property makes it such a special place.”
Boutique for pieces to take home: “To find something unique and local, we go to Moresi, a lovely little knitwear shop that produces all of their own cashmeres and cotton knits. For a more luxury fashion experience, go to A.Gi. Emme — they have a really nice curation of iconic designer pieces and more modern brands, like La DoubleJ.”
On the lake: “I actually love to go water-skiing early in the morning. Ask your hotel to book you a boat and they’ll come and pick you up at sunrise or sunset when the water is still glassy and the lake is completely quiet.”
Best way to unwind: “I like to do a lake meditation when I can. Just float out into the lake in the evening and meditate for a moment of calm surrounded by nature.”
Day trip: “Pigra is a wonderful little commune in the area, and very off the beaten track so its never crowded with tourists. You go to the top of the mountain by a little funicular, and from there, you can walk to the Monte Crocione, which has the best view ever over Lake Como.
“Valtellina in the North part of Lake Como has fantastic restaurants and wine tastings, too. The Heroica vines grow up across very steep hills and mountains in the area so to collect the grapes they have to use this elaborate system with ropes and harnesses. The wine is just as delicious as those produced in Piedmont but is much less famous.”
Something everyone should do: “Hiking is an amazing way to explore Como. In Moltrasio, there is a beautiful little walk you can take along the walls of the town that guides you to these untouched waterfalls and natural pools.
“Another hike takes you from Grand Hotel Tremezzo along a winding path until you reach the Chiesa di San Martino, an amazing little church that looks like it has just been dropped on a little perch of rocks. From there you can look out and see the whole two forks of the Lake.”
A version of this article appeared in the September issue of Vogue Australia.