It’s risque business on adults-only Virgin Voyages but don’t be afraid
Richard Branson’s cruise line has a reputation for being something of a swingers club at sea, and passengers certainly let their hair down.
Danger, romance, good luck. The colour red has long been used to symbolise these notions. As the signature hue of Richard Branson’s business behemoth, it’s a suitably bold choice for the Virgin brand, which began as a humble mail-order music venture in 1970 and has since spread its tentacles into rail, air, space travel for the uber rich, and most recently cruising. The colour is emblazoned across Virgin Voyages ships, which first set sail in 2021 with Scarlet Lady. The palette is hardly surprising. You wouldn’t expect a man renowned for shameless publicity stunts and daredevil adventures to create a beige cruise product. Boring is not the word to describe this brazenly fun-seeking branch of the business. Danger, romance and good luck – Virgin Voyages seems ripe with possibilities for all three.
Resilient Lady, christened last year as the third in the fleet (a fourth is on the way), is in Australia for the first time this summer, plying local, New Zealand and South Pacific waters. I board in Melbourne for a five-night voyage to Tasmania, lured by the prospect of a night and two full days in one of my favourite Australian cities, Hobart. The week of my sailing sees the launch of Royal Caribbean’s biggest ship to date, a leviathan that can accommodate 7500. In comparison, Resilient Lady carries a modest 2770 passengers but the ship still looks enormous berthed at Port Melbourne.
As part of the check-in process, I’m given a hipster-style wristband that will serve as a key to my Sea Terrace cabin and be used for all purchases. At the gangway, it immediately becomes clear this is no ordinary cruise ship. Instead of crew in starched uniforms issuing a demure welcome, a young man in a cheeky short jumpsuit is prancing about doing high kicks and calling “Ahoy sailors” to arriving guests. Let the fun begin.
Fun takes many forms on Resilient Lady, and let’s be clear, it may not be to everyone’s taste. Stage shows can be risque, and in the case of the resident drag queen’s performances, a crude kind of British pantomime. I see a handful of older passengers make a hurried exit from one show that pushes the boundaries. Sexual innuendos are served generously – even the ice-cream stall is called “Lick Me Till …”. But this is an adults-only operation, so if you can’t stand the heat, stay in your cabin – or any of the other rather lovely spaces around the 17-deck vessel.
If there were debauched shenanigans taking place I was blissfully unaware, but this is an irreverent brand that encourages guests to let their hair down
You could try the Sip Lounge, a classy bar with plush velvet seating, or the Social Club, a happy casual hub where passengers gather to play trivia and board games (it has a fantastic den filled with retro video games such as Pacman and Space Invaders). The Aquatic Club by the pool is popular with sun lovers but also has large shaded couches. Private cabanas can be booked for extra seclusion, or you could nab a screened red lounge at the Sun Club on Deck 16. Those with RockStar status, staying in the largest suites, converge on Richard’s Rooftop, an exclusive chic white haven of hot tubs and circular sunbeds where the Moet flows freely from 5pm-6pm each day.
My two favourite public venues are at the stern. The Dock is a relaxed al fresco lounge where passengers loll about on double day beds. When it’s sunny and not blowing a gale, head here to chill out with a book while sipping a glass of wine. Then there’s The Wake, one of the main restaurants on board. Forget those vast dining rooms you might find on ships of a similar size. The design of this seafood-and-steak eatery cleverly creates discrete zones, gently lit and given a touch of Art Deco glamour with curved banquettes and chevron mirrors. My table is in prime position, overlooking the restaurant’s churning namesake as we sail past Portsea and enter Bass Strait.
Dining on board
There are plenty of other dining options. Razzle Dazzle serves inventive vegetarian fare – the brunch menu is excellent – along with the likes of lamb shanks and fried chicken. Gunbae is the place for Korean barbecue (and noisy drinking games), Pink Agave gives Mexican a modern twist, and there’s Italian at Extra Virgin, and hit-and-miss molecular gastronomy at The Test Kitchen, where mint green and stainless-steel decor gives off science-lab vibes. The buffet is absent, replaced with The Galley, a gourmet food court with grab-and-go bento boxes of fruit and granola or sushi, along with stations serving baked goods, salads, burgers and noodle soups – and real coffee. I’m impressed by the standard of food hygiene. Passengers don’t get their dirty mitts on tongs or breathe over bain maries – all food is behind glass and served by staff.
Fitness facilities are impressive too. Technogym weight-training equipment is housed on one side of the pool deck, with dozens of treadmills and stationary bikes on the other. The set-up ensures you feel virtuous pedalling or pumping iron while looking through the windows as other guests blob by the pool slurping cocktails. There’s a plethora of fitness classes, too, but they book out quickly, so get in quick.
Technology
All activities, dining and excursions are controlled via an app, so mobile phones are essential tools. This might pose challenges for passengers not accustomed to having their life mapped out on a small screen but tech skills improve as the voyage progresses. There are bonuses, too. Shake that mobile anywhere on the ship and champagne will be delivered to you direct. I find restaurant reservations the most challenging – everything is booked out. But each eatery allows for walk-ins, and there’s only one night where I take the easy option of The Galley.
Since my return, I’ve been peppered with questions about the Virgin Voyages experience. Somehow, the brand’s “adults-only” tag has gained it a reputation as a swingers’ club at sea. The age range on my voyage spanned from 18 to 85. They were a diverse and inclusive crowd out to enjoy themselves, regardless of their years. If there were debauched shenanigans taking place I was blissfully unaware, but this is an irreverent brand that encourages guests to let their hair down.
So let’s get back to those three possibilities: danger, romance and luck. Danger? The acrobats and aerial artists certainly put their bodies on the line when performing an energetic show about Persephone, queen of the underworld, as the ship crosses Bass Strait. Romance? There was a lot of love in the air at the exuberant Scarlet Night party, held each cruise on the second-last night. Good luck? For those willing to roll the dice, there’s always the casino.
In the know
Resilient Lady has a 10-night one-way voyage from Melbourne to Auckland via Sydney, calling at Picton, Napier and Rotorua, departing March 5; from $6940 for two in a Sea Terrace cabin. Other accommodation options are Insider, XL Sea View, RockStar and Mega RockStar Quarters. Includes meals in the 20-plus dining venues, soft drinks, wi-fi, group fitness classes, entertainment. February bookings get a $250 bar tab. Drink packages available.
Penny Hunter was a guest of Virgin Voyages.
