Hunter Valley’s new luxury retreat in Bimbadgen Estate
Architecturally designed villas at Bimbadgen Estate are a perfect respite between all the eating and drinking.
The lawns of the new Lane Retreat in the Hunter Valley still bear the gridmarks of turf-laying when I arrive in late October.
A groundsperson is watering the grass and hoping for rain, while spindly shrubs planted around the 60 smart new villas look decidedly pre-pubescent. Their maturity is only a matter of time, however. Things tend to grow well here in the red clay and sandy loam soils of the NSW wine region.
Part of Bimbadgen Estate, the Mulpha Hospitality Group-owned winery just outside Pokolbin, The Lane Retreat is surrounded by 15ha of vines that have been producing fruit for nigh on 50 years.
Those grapes are the essential ingredients in the top-shelf semillon and shiraz for which the Hunter Valley is renowned, along with smatterings of chardonnay, verdelho and tempranillo.
But while Bimbadgen’s wines are a major drawcard, I’m keen to check out the villas splayed across a gentle hillside that overlooks a dam and beyond to the Broken Back mountains.
Arranged in clusters of three and four, the villas’ roof lines seem to mimic the craggy silhouette of the range in the distance.
Designed by Simone Barr of Brisbane architecture firm DAARC, the studios were largely prefabricated offsite, and the jigsaw puzzles pieced together on location.
Each modular unit features sleek, modern lines in dark Colorbond and timber that blend harmoniously with the surrounds. Solar power, rainwater catchment and the treatment and re-use of grey water drive the operation’s eco credentials.
The interior of our villa also points to the environment, with a palette of rusty orange, charcoal and brown dominating the king bed, soft furnishings, a pair of armchairs and dining table for two. There’s a compact kitchenette with microwave oven, toaster, tea and coffee-making essentials and minibar with an eclectic range of softies, craft beer and (naturally) Bimbadgen wines.
Also in the fridge are our breakfast supplies: bagels, cream cheese, fresh juice and yoghurt with fruit compote. (These are refreshed the following day with delicious breakfast frittatas.)
The bathroom has generous proportions, with double vanities and twin rain showers stocked with Hunter Lab brand (what else?) toiletries.
Sliding glass doors lead to a small deck, from which my husband and I watch ducks and – to our surprise – a pair of black swans swanning about on the dam. The only thing missing is somewhere to put our luggage, which for our short stay remains in our bags on the floor rather than being hung in the wardrobe.
A short stroll away is the swimming pool, surrounded by travertine and flanked by sun lounges under jaunty striped umbrellas giving off Amalfi vibes.
We spend a couple of blissful hours lolling here in the late afternoon sun after an indulgent lunch up the road at Bimbadgen’s McDonald Road property. Esca restaurant, winner of Australia’s Wine List of the Year award in 2023, is helmed by chef Keira Madeley.
Her five-course Signature Experience presents a leisurely opportunity to sample some of Bimbadgen’s fine drops accompanied by elegantly plated creations such as rich and spicy Western Australia octopus with nduja (paired with a Palmers Lane chardonnay), a delightfully light pea risotto with asparagus and mint (McDonalds Road semillon), and a perfectly pink lamb backstrap (with a full-bodied shiraz from McDonalds Road vines). Beware the moreish focaccia to start; you’ll regret filling up on carbs.
A striking feature of Bimbadgen’s cavernous main venue, where visitors can pop in for wine tastings and a pizza made in the blazing wood-fired oven in the courtyard, is a new copper still, shipped over from Germany in 2021.
Our host Jayson Daloso explains that the winemakers use this gleaming piece of equipment under cover of darkness, when their vintnering duties are done.
Their experimentation with botanicals such as licorice root, sandalwood, pepperberry and finger lime has resulted in a dry gin and vodka, sold under the aptly named label Night Merchant Spirits.
Jayson prepares a gin and tonic laced with a dash of red grapefruit cordial and garnished with dried orange peel and fresh rosemary. It’s delicious and I’ve been re-creating it all summer.
The warm weather vanishes suddenly overnight and we listen to the rain pour down on the roof of our villa. We don boots and waterproof jackets and wander up to The Pantry, the Lane Retreat’s rustic-chic store where guests can pick up a latte and browse a carefully chosen array of products ideal for a wet Hunter Valley day.
Adult board games, jigsaw puzzles, pastel ceramics and cookbooks are on display beside Bimbadgen wines and spirits.
On our way back to the villa, the Hunter’s rich volcanic soil sticks to our shoes. I can imagine the groundskeeper’s happiness at such a generous drink for the new gardens.
When we return home, the mats of our car are still smeared with dried red clay. Along with cases of wine and a bottle of gin, we’ve brought some of the Hunter home with us.
In the know
The Lane Retreat is at 409 Palmers Lane, Pokolbin. From February 1 to July 31, stay two nights and save 15 per cent; from $255 a night including supplied breakfast. Three of the villas are wheelchair accessible.
Say cheese
There’s nothing quite like the heavenly marriage of shiraz and cheese, and the Hunter Valley has several fromageries to choose from. For soft fresh cheeses to make you swoon, head to Binnorie Dairy in Lovedale, just east of Pokolbin. It uses milk from farms in the region, and the marinated feta and creamy labna are divine. Open seven days.
Browse and buy
Fetch Homewares, in Pokolbin’s Peppers Creek Village, is another top spot to pick up a pretty knick-knack you didn’t know you needed. Mayde teas, Sage + Clare cushions and resin kitchen accessories, Kollab bags and gorgeous Ziggy Lou baby rompers are all on offer in this cute sandstone store.
Penny Hunter was a guest of Bimbadgen Estate.
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