Hotel de Russie Rome’s Le Jardin Restaurant
Book well ahead for a table in this wildly popular eatery in Italy’s capital.
Whether you’re planning to travel overseas or in Australia, T+L’s On the Radar series offers inspiration for tourists.
HOT IN THE CITY
Le Jardin de Russie, Rome
This courtyard restaurant at Hotel de Russie is madly popular but still feels secretive and special. With table d’hote menus at €55 ($84.25) a person (plus taxes) and a Michelin-star chef at the helm, it’s a surprising bargain for the Italian capital.
Market umbrellas bloom over tables angled towards the five-star property’s tiered gardens and there’s further seating in a terrace-side salon newly decorated with whimsical murals and columns painted in a botanical theme by Gio Bressana. During my recent visit, temperatures are hitting the mid-30s, the mood is lively and trays of Aperol spritz are circulating in vivid orange flashes. A chap goes down on one knee and proposes to his dining companion, shaking so much he almost drops the engagement ring box. Her smile is as sparkling as the solitaire diamond and we all cheer as waiters wave stiff white napkins in victorious salute. There are two birthday songs at surrounding tables and more shouts of joy and pops of champagne corks.
Such happy interruptions enhance the experience as I tackle creamy burrata with tomatoes that smell of the sun, seafood linguine and scoops of lemon and blood orange sorbets that are summer on a plate. A la carte options are also available. Book online as far ahead as possible; I creep in with 14 days’ notice but it’s high summer and an even longer lead time is recommended. Hotel de Russie is located between Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps.
SUSAN KUROSAWA
REGIONAL RICHES
Siblings Kirra, Coolangatta, QLD
In a refreshing sign of the times, and of a gentrifying Gold Coast, Kirra Beach’s heritage-listed pavilion is now home to a sharp and breezy new bistro. Siblings Kirra has taken over the space which, for 40 years, housed a very well-patronised Pizza Hut. Run by brothers TJ and Jarrod Cianci, the 200-seat restaurant revels in its beachfront location and views to Surfers Paradise skyscrapers with a covered deck open to surf and sea breezes. It’s a place to drop by for brunch or a full feast with fine wines; feel free to come straight from the beach (just pop on some shoes and a shirt).
Siblings’ interiors channel a bygone Gold Coast vibe with a touch of Miami, all summery pastel tones and liberal use of tiles, timber, glass and greenery. The menu is a please-all affair that might loosely be dubbed modern Mediterranean, if not for the presence of Baja-style Mexican fish tacos or the Bang Bang chicken salad with vermicelli noodles and sesame.
“We’ve always tried not to limit ourselves to a single cuisine because we love groups and families and really have something for everyone,” says TJ, whose family are the well-known Gold Coast restaurateurs behind Edgewater and The Fish Emporium. “Everyone’s got to be able to find something they’ll enjoy.”
There’s a decent selection of wines on offer but, this being the Gold Coast, cocktails dominate. If there’s a house special it’s probably the Caramilk Spank, a heady blend of caramel, vodka, Kahlua and coffee perfumed with violet liqueur distilled in the hinterland. So GC. Open Tues-Sun, 11am-late.
KENDALL HILL
COOL IN THE COUNTRY
Waubs Harbour Distillery, Bicheno, Tasmania
There’s the tang of salt in the air, a small yacht bobbing in the tranquil harbour and a colony of seals basking in the sun on a nearby rock. Welcome to Tasmania’s newest craft whisky outfit, Waubs Harbour Distillery. Located in a former oyster hatchery on the rocky shores of Bicheno, midway up the island state’s east coast, Waubs Harbour is the creation of brothers Tim and Rob Polmear and Tim’s wife, Bec (pictured). They began production of their maritime-infused spirit four years ago and began releasing their first whiskies a couple of months ago, all of which sold out in less than an hour.
While this might be their first appearance on the whisky landscape, “it’s not our first rodeo”, explains Tim. Rob was previously the head distiller at Overeem and worked in production at Lark Distillery. He has a marine science background and, says Tim, “is a natural craftsman. We had a unique opportunity to team up. I’m a big fan of single malt whisky and wanted to set Rob up with the equipment to unleash his potential.”
The whisky is distilled and matured in these buildings by the sea, with the coating of rust on the staves of the barrels a testament to the influence of the ocean air on the final product. The maritime impact is not just on the barrels, however; seawater is also used to cool the copper stills and Rob has been experimenting with coastal peat for a hint of smokiness. Plans are afoot to create a tasting room in the former abalone hatchery next door, that will also house another bond store and a tank for the crayfish Tim collects from his pots before work. “We’ve always had an affinity with maritime ways,” says Tim, “and we wanted to create a single malt that had been breathing in the sea air.” Tours and tastings available by appointment.
ALIX CLARKE