From Ikea to Volvo: Sweden’s best museums
This Scandinavian country is highly influential when it comes to art and design and here are seven highlights for a future visit.
From the democratic design approach of IKEA to a restaurant inspired by Brutalist architecture, and the swoon-worthy Stockholm hotel that turns the notion of luxe hospitality on their head, Sweden boasts a progressive design ethos that’s often more joyful and colourful than expected. Travelling by rail allows a meandering approach to exploring what makes this Scandinavian nation Swedish not only by nature, but by design.
Svenskt Tenn, Stockholm
Marie Kondo would have a tough time in this Swedish treasure trove of design, founded 100 years ago by visionary Estrid Ericson. Every item, from the intricate animals carved into nested pewter tables (Svenskt Tenn means “Swedish pewter”) to textiles brimming with colourful depictions of nature, sparks joy. It’s a minimalist’s conundrum. Ericson was an intuitive genius in everything from setting a table – she spoke of investing mealtimes with “poetry and pleasure” – to nurturing Swedish craftsmanship. Together with Austrian architect and designer Josef Frank, who she hired in 1934, she created a world where humanity dances through the designs. Cult items include the Liljevalchs Sofa, Frank’s pushback against the cookie-cutter functionalism of the ’30s with its outrageous depth and comfort.
World of Volvo, Gothenburg
Billed as an “experience centre”, World of Volvo is inspired by the concept of allemansratten; the Swedish right of public access to natural spaces. It’s an intriguing proposition, even if you’re not a car enthusiast. The 22,000sqm Henning Larsen-designed building is a soaring, swirling monument to nature. When we visit the newly opened venue, the smell of wood – the bones of the structure – is fresh in the air, and living trees dot an immense stairwell complete with floor cushions and lamps, where locals lounge happily. The organic, curved construction, with colossal beams branching out to support the circular roof, invokes a warmth not usually associated with motoring. Vintage and modern vehicles are positioned around the multi-level behemoth, which houses exhibitions exploring the role Volvo has played in Swedish culture, alongside dining venues and other public spaces.
Ett Hem, Stockholm
In a world of endless hotel hot lists, Ett Hem (“a home”) – part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World portfolio – has quietly established itself as a game-changer. Opened in 2012 by owner Jeanette Mix, this in-demand, brick-walled bolthole began by transforming a 1910-built Arts and Crafts-style townhouse into an impossibly stylish, home-like oasis. It’s since gently expanded to include two neighbouring townhouses, the most recent opening in 2023 with three residences for long-term stays. The aesthetic, honed by Mix and British designer Ilse Crawford, is a covetable, non-flashy alchemy. Think: polished-brass hanging candelabra and roaring fires in the open kitchen; soothing grey walls given a glow-up by a glossy red dining table; monochrome striped armchairs paired with romantic glass chandeliers, and original dark wood-panelled walls enlivened with modern art.
Brutalisten, Stockholm
Based on the stripped-back simplicity of Brutalist architecture and opened in 2022 by artist Carsten Holler, Brutalisten’s kitchen manifesto outlines the rules: only one ingredient per dish; in some cases, water and salt may be added. This ingredient is prepared using various methods before being reassembled on the plate, garnish-free: “Brutalist cuisine is not about lack of sophistication, but lack of combination of different ingredients and a commitment to purity.” The experience is much warmer – and more thrilling – than it sounds. The intimate space features raw brick and polished chrome, with wooden surfaces and burgundy leather banquettes softening the edges. Friendly service brings you on the journey, explaining how, for example, Amandine potato from Gotland is transformed into potato puree; wafer-thin crisps; smoked potato dip, and a broth made of fermented potato juice and roasted skins, summoning a miso-like depth of flavour. One to open your mind, eyes and palate.
Subway art, Stockholm
Underground art takes on a literal meaning in Stockholm, where many subway stations double as part of a sprawling subterranean art gallery. Central hub T-Centralen station was the first to feature artwork, its blue-and-white colour scheme both calming and enlivening. Some sections celebrate, via silhouetted representations, the workers who built the station, passing tools and installing lightbulbs. Others feature charming, almost folksy natural motifs, with leafy patterns reaching up the walls and across the arched ceilings above the hustle and bustle. At Tekniska Hogskolan station, near the KTH Royal Institute of Technology, the artwork depicts themes of scientific study and advancement, the fantastical spread including representations of DaVinci’s efforts to create a flying machine, geometric diagrams and billowing cloudlike forms tracing the cavernous walls.
Ikea Museum, Almhult
The IKEA Museum lies in the small town of Almhult, making for a nostalgia-filled stop between Stockholm and Malmo. This temple to the cult Swedish furniture brand – the first store opened here in 1958 – and founder, the “playful entrepreneur” Ingvar Kamprad, weaves the history of IKEA with broader insights into shifting home, design and cultural trends from the 1950s through to today. From the optimism, pop music and political protests of the ’60s, through the ostentation of the ’80s and the minimalist ’90s, iconic furniture pieces and textiles are arranged in a compelling, kaleidoscopic array of greatest hits (along with some interesting “misses” – behold circular mattresses, launched in the 2000s). A gift shop stocks posters of popular prints and knick-knacks; don’t miss the colour-pop cafeteria for those famed gravy-cloaked meatballs with pickled cucumbers and lingonberry jam.
Moderna Museet, Malmo
Coastal city Malmo’s charms span the historic to the modern, one of the most striking being the Moderna Museet. With a perforated, Fanta-coloured facade (designed by Tham & Videgard Arkitekter) sandwiched between traditional brick buildings, the gallery occupies a former electricity plant and now hosts thought-provoking exhibitions. Swedish artist and activist Monica Sjoo’s exhibition features passionate and poignant reflections on womanhood, nature and politics; Unhealed, a collection of works from Algeria to Yemen, Romania to Sweden, examines the Arab uprisings and how they affected the lives of millions. The cafe and gift shop are saturated in that fizzing orange hue, a dazzling, mood-boosting application of colour. Fans of the “more is more” aesthetic will gravitate to MJs hotel’s moody, opulent tones and textures.
In the know
Eurail offers travel to 30,000 destinations in 33 countries across Europe. Select from options including a one-country or global pass (for unlimited travel in 33 countries), for durations between three days and three months.
Nikki Wallman was a guest of Eurail and Small Luxury Hotels of the World.
If you love to travel, sign up to our free weekly Travel + Luxury newsletter here.
To join the conversation, please log in. Don't have an account? Register
Join the conversation, you are commenting as Logout