From Corsica to the Côte d’Azur: 4 favourite holiday spots
The playgrounds of Europe have long drawn Australia’s fashion insiders in search of inspiration and rejuvenation. Here a coterie of tastemakers reveal what makes their favourite holiday spot tick.
Edwina and Felix Forest
Aje creative director Edwina Forest and photographer Felix Forest are fans of the Côte d’Azur for its art-filled villas, sun-drenched scenes and exuberant style, and echoes of the storied region resonate in their work
Do you have a personal connection to the region?
Felix: “I’m French and we both love the south. We spent a few days in the Côte d’Azur during our honeymoon.”
Edwina: “The family-owned La Colombe d’Or in Saint-Paul-de-Vence was the first place we stayed in as Mr and Mrs Forest. It has an extraordinary art collection and a glorious history as the most celebrated salon in the south of France for artists, poets and philosophers of the early 20th century.”
What inspires you most about the French Riviera?
Felix: “The level of sophistication in the simple things. It’s the epitome of douceur de vivre (easy living or sweet life): the climate, the smells of nature, the Mediterranean food, the light and, of course, a rare concentration of art.”
Edwina: “After WWII artists gravitated here for safety and escapism, but also for the multicoloured seasons that inspire new palettes. French sculptor César Baldaccini extolled the “lavender sky, honeyed light... the precious scent of thyme and nostalgia”. It touches the soul – so much so that it has become the inspiration for my next Aje spring collection.”
What’s the secret to dressing like a local?
Edwina: “An air of insouciance. Nothing should feel overdone or contrived, but, rather, casually thrown together – in the same way that the flowers
on the hotel’s tables are done, freshly picked from the garden and effortlessly arranged.”
Felix: “Embroidered white dresses and casual safari suits.”
Packing essentials?
Edwina: “A wide-brimmed raffia hat and market bag, cat-eye sunglasses, swimsuits, cotton shirts, broderie anglaise sundresses, and a pair of killer heels for dinner and dancing.”
Stylish souvenirs to take home?
Edwina: “Saint-Paul-de-Vence is an idyllic little village bustling with life, cafés, art galleries, and gift stores for mementos. Additionally, La Colombe d’Or has a beautiful hardcover book published by Assouline that was the perfect keepsake for us.”
Standout art or architectural gems?
Felix: “Eileen Gray’s E-1027 modernist house, Le Corbusier’s Le Cabanon, Chapelle Saint-Pierre for its Cocteau murals, Musée Matisse, Musée Picasso and Musée Fernand Léger.”
Edwina: “La Fondation Maeght is around the corner from the hotel. It’s France’s first independent art foundation, and home to the work of fêted sculptors including Joan Miró, Alberto Giacometti and Georges Braque.”
Ultimate people-watching?
Felix: “The grande dame Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc never disappoints.”
Best bathing spots?
Felix: “Plage des Ondes is a great beach on the west side of Cap d’Antibes. Sentier du Littoral is a beautiful coastal walk.”
Edwina: “The pool at La Colombe d’Or is surrounded by green vines and hedges, enveloped with the scents of the region, and ornamented with a Calder sculpture that stands at the end of the pool like a welcoming host.”
Favourite films to take you back?
Felix: “Pierrot le Fou, La Piscine, To Catch a Thief, and Bonjour Tristesse.”
Patrick and Tamsin Johnson
Work transported tailor Patrick Johnson to central Italy, but the region’s breezy style, stately architecture and boundless beauty keep him coming back. The clothier often visits with his wife, interior designer Tamsin Johnson, and their children, Arthur and Bunny.
Do you have a personal connection to Tuscany?
“I’ve been working there for nearly 20 years. My old boss Robert Emmett once told me to work where you want to travel, and I always want to travel to Tuscany. Seven years ago we started Sartoria Carrara, our Tuscan workshop with 60 artisans, where we make our beautiful hand-tailored suits. We’re in between the arts town of Pietrasanta and the coastal Forte dei Marmi, between mountains and sea.”
What inspires you most about the region?
“I love a messy rolling Tuscan garden. Florence is always inspiring. It’s a bit like Disneyland now, but I don’t mind that. The sea in Tuscany is underrated – jumping off the rocks in Porto Ercole is hard to beat. Most of all I think
I want to die (a long time from now) in a house on top of a hill in Tuscany. It’s good to have goals.”
What is the secret to dressing like a local?
“Well, you want to avoid dressing like most of the locals, unless you like super-tight, super-distressed denim and slogan T-shirts that make no sense. But for the elegant ones, the ones who do the passeggiata each evening, then the key is to dress simply. Start with a well-cut pair of trousers in a season-appropriate fabric, a beautiful white shirt (always white in the evening) and a cosy sweater over the shoulders, and elegant but not fussy shoes.”
Where do you prefer to stay?
“I like Albergo Pietrasanta and JK Place in Florence. I do rather like Il Pellicano on the coast, and also Augustus in Forte dei Marmi.”
Your favourite lunch and dinner spots?
“Giacomo, one of my favourite restaurants in Milan, opened a fantastic courtyard restaurant in Pietrasanta a few years ago. It’s a lovely little town. You have all that amazing stone so it naturally attracts sculptors. I like lunch at one of the beach clubs: Bagno Carlo Rossi at Marina di Massa or Ristorante Gilda in Forte dei Marmi – they do a lobster risotto that is special. In Florence my favourite restaurant is Trattoria Sostanza.”
Best daytrip?
“The cascading hot springs at Cascate del Mulino are wonderful. Also head up the mountain for a breathtaking tour of the marble quarries. Lago di Isola Santa is a beautiful oasis. Kids can swim in the lake and there’s a great restaurant and B&B named Casa del Pescatore that does very good light food. Also visit the Church of San Jacopo, built in 1260 as a lodging for pilgrims, and hike up towards the peaks of the Apuan Alps.”
Ultimate people-watching?
“Probably Pisa airport’s ‘businessman’ traffic.”
Best bathing spots?
“The island of Giglio is arguably the best along the Tuscan coast. It has dozens of rocky shorelines and deep-indigo water – just remember to watch out for wrecked ferries.”
Family attractions in the region?
“The walled city of Lucca is perfect for a market day with the kids. Our kids love Forte dei Marmi and more specifically this really odd American roadside diner called 1950 American Diner. The beach clubs at Forte dei Marmi and Marina di Massa also have lots of kids’ toys, big slippery slides and are safe and easy to access.”
Any other tips for the area?
“The wines of the Bolgheri area, not too far away on the motorway, are definitely some of the best in Italy, housing all the ‘super-Tuscan’ reds. Try the lardo (cured prosciutto fat) – the Apuan producers are famous for this. It’s pretty dangerous on toast.”
Sean Venturi
Venroy founder Sean Venturi nominates the Amalfi Coast as his ultimate travel destination – and it’s easy to see why. The jet-set jewel offers clifftop resorts, sun-drenched beach clubs and buzzy restaurants aplenty.
Do you have a personal connection to this place?
“My nonno’s family is from Brescia, a beautiful town in northern Italy. I’ve always identified with my Italian heritage and I’m drawn to the Amalfi Coast. It’s addictive. The combination of aesthetic beauty, vibrant food and charming people always feeds the soul.”
What inspires you most about the region?
“I love people-watching and I find observing the locals going about life stimulating. Dolce far niente is an Italian saying that loosely translates as the pleasure derived from doing nothing. This is what holidays are all about for me. I find that it inspires my designs, too.”
What is the secret to dressing like a local?
“Wear linen!”
Your packing essentials?
“Comfortable Venroy sandals, lots of loose shirts, swim shorts, and a linen blazer and trousers for night-time. Also, Aesop’s Hwyl fragrance and Oliver Peoples sunglasses.”
Favourite local souvenir?
“I love taking matches from the hotels I visit.”
Where do you prefer to stay?
“I love Le Agavi hotel in Positano. It somehow manages to be both unpretentious and super-luxe in offering a five-star experience. Their service is unparalleled. Staff are really friendly, and their in-house beach club is a great option if you feel like a lazy day.”
Your favourite lunch and dinner spots?
“Da Adolfo is a local institution and I also have a personal connection. I went to school with Marco Bella, whose family owns the restaurant – nothing beats the food here. Da Vincenzo is also excellent for dinner. And Franco’s Bar at Le Sirenuse hotel is a must for drinks.”
Best daytrip?
“Conca del Sogno. It’s fun to arrive by boat and make a day of it. There’s a beach club, an incredible restaurant and great music if you feel like dancing afterwards. Order the frothy dessert cocktail Sgroppino and the waiters will create a hilarious scene.”
Ultimate people-watching?
“Grand Hotel Quisisana in Capri has the best vantage point to sit and watch the world go by. And it’s not just international tourists. I’ve found you see more Italians on holiday on the island.”
Best bathing spots?
“Almost all the beaches have a cold-water cave somewhere. In particular, the caves between Tordigliano and Nerano are the best. Rent a private boat from Positano and ask your boat driver to take you there. I also love Arienzo Beach for a swim.”
Any other tips for the area?
“You can’t miss Lo Scoglio for lunch. A beautiful backdrop and another great spot for people-watching.”
Favourite film to take you back?
“The Talented Mr Ripley is an all-time classic. When I watch Dickie Greenleaf weaving through the streets on his Vespa, I know it’s time to book a trip back to Italy.”
Sheree Commerford
Designer and digital guru Sheree Commerford equates Corsica with utopia. A visit to the mountainous island southeast of the French mainland, accompanied by her partner, Sam Elsom, and their children, Sugar and Captain, is forever etched in her memory.
What inspires you most about the island?
“The rawness, the untouched and diverse landscape. There is a simplicity to the Corsican way of life and yet it is so complex because of its history and identity, which has been shaped by centuries of invasions. I have a friend who is Corsican and every time she speaks of her homeland I am hypnotised.”
What is the secret to dressing like a local?
“Osmosis. My big style tip is to buy one thing that centres you in the place. Say a scarf or a bag. It doesn’t have to be expensive but one thing that you can use as a cornerstone for your wardrobe that connects you to the feel and style of the place.”
Your packing essentials?
“Rationale sunscreen, Chanel Hydra Lip Balm, Canvs Bottega x Helen Kaminski Mesa hat, Powerbeats Pro earphones, Of Origin jute sandals, Blundstones, Leica camera and statement jewellery to be worn when you least expect it, like while swimming.”
Where do you prefer to stay?
“Hôtel Misincu on the northern part of Corsica is beautiful. It’s a stunning drive from the south to the north and takes a day. On my next visit I want to stay at one of the smaller guest houses or hotels perched on the edge of Cap Corse. It feels like time has stood still here. Old aristocratic French villas tumble down cliffs and into the sea. It’s a real-life utopia for me.”
Your favourite lunch spot?
“A Pignata in the south is a Michelin-starred rustic restaurant in the middle of the countryside near the mountain village of Levie. Traditional Corsican food has its own distinct character. We dined on zuppa corsa (a vegetable minestrone in a ham-bone stock), aubergine farcie (Provençale tomatoes and eggplant) and cannelloni brocciu (a pasta bake using Corsica’s best-known cheese, brocciu) followed by goat’s cheese and fresh apples for dessert.”
What’s a memorable dinner spot?
“In the most insanely beautiful part of southern Corsica is Domaine de Murtoli, an estate with stone-built shepherd houses. La Table de la Grotte is a restaurant in a natural cave with views across the estate and the sea. They serve traditional Corsican food from their working farm and local producers. It’s one of the most incredible dining experiences we have had.”
Best daytrip?
“We took a two-hour tour on a chartered boat looking back on Bonifacio. Inspired by tales of Jacques Cousteau, we explored natural caves and grottos before heading to Isuli Lavezzi. It’s a tiny island that is part of the Archipelago of Lavezzi and we swam in water so emerald green it seemed fake.”
Favourite gem on the island?
“I fell in love with Bonifacio, a World Heritage site on a cliff above the water. It’s the gateway to the Italian island of Sardinia and where you’ll find the ferry terminals. We did a history walking tour through the citadel. The highlight was walking the King of Aragon’s Stairway. Legend has it these 187 steps were built overnight in 1420 during the famous siege of Bonifacio.”
Ultimate people-watching?
“They call Sartène the soul of Corsica and a step back in time to its medieval origins. We spent time drinking at a café on the Place Porta, eavesdropping on local conversations. This is the true Corsica, they say.”
Choice bathing spot?
“Erbalunga is one of my favourite places in the north. Its Genoese tower, cobbled streets and fishing port date back to the Middle Ages. If you drive from here to Brando you’ll glimpse a blue you have never seen before.”
Family attractions in the location?
“The drive up to Col de Bavella to swim or hike at the Cascades de Polischellu waterfalls. Corsica is covered with mountains. You’ll see clear mountain water streaming from rocky waterfalls into natural pools.”