Free at last: Spicers Sangoma Retreat in the Blue Mountains
A long-awaited weekend escape from Sydney leads to a luxury Blue Mountains retreat.
On my first, long-awaited weekend escape from Sydney after weeks of COVID-enforced isolation, a cold snap is adding to the sense of anticipation. It’s only two days since snow fell on the Blue Mountains township of Katoomba, and there’s a chance further falls will deliver a dusting to countryside that was deeply charred by bushfires over summer.
Heading out through historic Richmond and the polo fields of Windsor to Bilpin, the road is jam-packed with other visitors apparently keen to escape the city for the tonic of fresh, cool air. Orchards and carefully tended gardens line the Bells Line of Road, which is dotted with roadside stalls and shops selling everything from fresh limes and pumpkins to the obligatory apples. Prices for the fruit have skyrocketed since the Gosper’s Mountain bushfire heartbreakingly turned towards Bilpin in December, leaving a trail of destruction. Nonetheless, there are queues for the district’s famed fresh pies, ciders and juices plus bags of pink ladies, fuji and royal galas. It seems the tourist hordes have two motivations for being here: the desire to flee Sydney and to bolster Bilpin’s ravaged economy.
Our destination is Spicers Sangoma Retreat, which sits on the eastern fringe of Blue Mountains National Park, just over an hour from Katoomba. After wheeling around the switchbacks of Bowen Mountain, we pass through a security gate and arrive at the resort to be greeted like long-lost friends by general manager Bede.
We head straight to our Luxury Bush Suite, a spacious pavilion looking out over the eucalypts. First impressions are of rustic rural lodgings, but once inside it’s clear comfort and quality are the priority. Furnishings are a mix of leather and fine fabrics; a cow-hide rug adorns the floor, and a faux fur blanket is strewn across the inviting, plump bed. Bathroom facilities are appropriately opulent, with a rainwater shower and super-sized bath big enough for two, plus an array of beauty products by Australian brand Leif featuring botanical extracts and essential oils.
The polished concrete floors are heated but it’s time to ramp up the cosy factor. Lighting the combustion wood heater is a task made easy thanks to a starter kit replete with instructions, matches, firestarters, kindling and a generous pile of pre-cut logs on the side. This thoughtfulness extends to the complimentary minibar stocked with half bottles of Mumm champagne, wines, lagers and premium soft drinks. There are piles of handmade treats from Katoomba’s Whisk & Pin, including rocky road and white chocolate and raspberry biscuits.
Sangoma means “healer” in Zulu and there’s a warm African safari-meets-Australian bush aesthetic to the property. The retreat was originally established by South African operators before being taken over by Jude Turner’s Spicers group. Faux antlers and other African trinkets still feature in the public areas, but the overwhelming feel is of understated Aussie luxe.
We are invited for cocktails at 6.30pm, with dinner to follow. The timber-lined restaurant and great room, overlooking bushland and heated by a roaring wood fire, make for a romantic dining setting. Staff are attentive and chatty, and seem genuinely delighted to have guests back after the easing of coronavirus restrictions. Chef Will Houia has devised a menu that makes the most of local produce, much of which is sourced from farms in the nearby Hawkesbury district. Vegetables get star billing and are served in myriad ways, from pickled mushrooms to creamy cauliflower; there are few stodgy carbs in sight. Carnivores are also well catered to with pulled lamb patties, crackling pork and juicy sirloin steaks; desserts give a nod to nearby Bilpin, with tarte tatin among the offerings.
The following day we are greeted with another cornucopia at breakfast: hotcakes with sliced strawberries and coconut cream, bircher muesli, bacon, avocado and tomatoes on the vine. To us, the only jarring element is a spicy chorizo sausage, but we overhear a young couple singing its praises to the waitress. A request for jam is answered with a delicious concoction of quandong and ginger.
Walking trails abound around Sangoma’s eight pavilions, but we are hankering for a look at Katoomba and hoping to see snow. The Echo Point Lookout, which delivers vistas of the Three Sisters and escarpment, has been cordoned off by Blue Mountains Council, but the barriers have been pushed aside and there are scores of tourists viewing the fabled trio. The air is breathtakingly cold but, alas, there’s no snow.
We press on to the Hydro Majestic Hotel, originally opened in 1904 as a health retreat and reborn in 2014 after a $30m refurbishment. The gift shop and cafe are abuzz with customers browsing souvenirs and ordering hot chocolates to fend off the cold.
Our route back to Sangoma takes us past the landmark 150-year-old Victoria and Albert Guesthouse at Mount Victoria and then cruises the Darling Causeway down to the Bells Line of Road. We are aghast at the extent of fire damage to the bush and can see in places where flames jumped the road. Thankfully, recovery is under way and tree trunks are sprouting green leaves.
Snug and warm back in our treetop haven, we discover the minibar has been amply replenished. It would be tempting to stay put and have a cheese board brought to our pavilion but we brave the 50m walk to the restaurant for dinner. In summer, I can imagine sipping a cocktail by Sangoma’s lap pool, which is set in a Balinese-style garden. A limoncello and prosecco concoction topped with vanilla ice cream, perhaps?
Already I’m dreaming of a December getaway — no need for snow.
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In the know
Spicers Sangoma Retreat is at 70 Grandview Lane, Bowen Mountain, about an hour’s drive from the Sydney CBD. Tariff includes all meals and beverages, including Australian and Italian wines; from $1299 a night for two. There are five Spicers properties in Queensland, two in NSW’s Hunter Valley and one in inner-city Sydney.