Five classic Dublin pubs for Guinness and good times
Renowned as a friendly city where history and craic are in abundance, the Irish capital delivers both in these storied watering holes.
Dublin is renowned as a friendly city where history and good company are in abundance. Visitors will find both – plus prized pints – in these storied pubs.
1 McDaid’s
Literary classic with a colourful past
Located on Harry St, McDaid’s is a tall, narrow pub with an intriguing history. In the 18th century, the building housed the Dublin City Morgue, then later it became a chapel, which explains the high ceilings and Gothic-style windows. In its most recent incarnation as a pub, it was a favourite haunt of writers including Brendan Behan, Flann O’Brien and Patrick Kavanagh. Good Guinness and conversation are still very much the order of the day. Seats are a rarity on weekends, when much of the crowd spills out on to the street, so drop in on a weekday afternoon if you want to experience the surroundings over a quiet pint.
2 Mulligan’s
Timeless pub unspoiled by modern distractions
Mulligan’s on Poolbeg St has several claims to fame. It is one of Dublin’s oldest pubs – established in 1782, originally situated on Thomas St. It was also name-checked in James Joyce’s short story Counterparts. In the 20th century, Mulligan’s was popular with actors from the nearby Theatre Royal and journalists from The Irish Times and neighbouring The Irish Press newspapers – it was even visited by a pre-presidential John F. Kennedy in the 1950s, while he was working as a journalist. These days, a no-television policy ensures good banter, while a friendly and experienced bar crew guarantee perfectly crafted pints.
3 The Long Hall
Victoriana dream famous for its delicious pints and warm welcome
Red-and-white striped canopies and swirly signage make quite the entrance, but it’s the lovely atmosphere and even lovelier pints that really hit the spot. Licensed since 1766, The Long Hall on South Great George’s St is one of Dublin’s oldest and best-loved pubs. The fact its decor has changed little since an 1881 makeover only adds to the appeal. Expect genuine Victorian fixtures and fittings, goldleaf embellishments, and ruby-coloured walls, ceilings and carpets – plus, you might even spot The Boss, Bruce Springsteen, if he’s playing in Dublin. It’s one of his favourite hangouts when he’s in town. He wouldn’t be the first famous face to grace the pub. Brendan Behan was no stranger to a jar here, while some scenes from Phil Lynott’s Old Town music video were shot at the bar.
4 The Stag’s Head
Cinematic Victorian-era pub hosting regular events
Keep your eyes peeled on Dame St for a mosaic of a stag’s head on the pavement that points you in the direction of Dame Court. Featured in movies such as Educating Rita, A Man of No Importance and horror series Penny Dreadful, The Stag’s Head is one of Dublin’s most beautiful Victorian-era pubs. Low lighting, stained-glass windows, an imposing mahogany bar, and a majestic wall-mounted stag’s head lend an elegant, Gothic vibe. But downstairs, in the Stag’s Tail, there’s a serious craic den. Regular storytelling events, live music sessions and comedy gigs pull in the crowds most nights. The pub serves a selection of classic Irish dishes from 1-7pm daily, including beef and Guinness stew, fish pie, and its own take on a ham and cheese toastie – sourdough bread, Irish ham hock, Dubliner cheese and bechamel sauce.
5 The Brazen Head
Stop by Dublin’s oldest pub for a pint and a few tunes
Based in the centre of Medieval Dublin on Lower Bridge St, just a short stroll from Christ Church Cathedral and the Guinness Brewery, The Brazen Head is worth visiting for both its history and its live music tradition. Officially Dublin’s oldest pub (it dates back to 1198), The Brazen Head hosts nightly traditional Irish music sessions as well as its famous Sunday sessions, which take place weekly from 3.30-6.30pm. This is a popular venue with tourists all year round, but don’t let that put you off. On a summer’s evening, the cobblestone beer garden out front is a top spot for a pint.
This is an edited extract from Beyond the Cobblestones in Dublin by Fiona Hilliard, published by Hardie Grant Explore. Available in stores nationally, $34.99. Photography by Joe Ladrigan, Gareth Byrne and others.