Dram good drinking from new whisky distilleries in Scotland
When in Scotland, be sure to sample these latest examples of the national product.
1. Holyrood Distillery, Edinburgh
It’s been almost 100 years since the mysterious art of making whisky was practised in the city of Edinburgh. That changed in August with the opening of this distillery in a 180-year-old railway building. It’s opposite Holyrood Park, a heather-dotted expanse with the rocky lump of Arthur’s Seat at its centre, and just a short walk to the Royal Mile. Production of its whiskies has begun, and in the meantime it is producing a range of gins and gin liqueurs with ingredients such as blood orange and fennel, apricot and ginger. The shop has whiskies sourced from across Scotland and bottled under the Holyrood label, plus vintage examples from its private collection.
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2. Ardnahoe Distillery, Islay
Islay, off Scotland’s west coast, is renowned for producing peaty, smoky single malts, and this family-run newcomer to the scene isn’t about to break with tradition. The Laing clan dries the barley over peat smoke for 20 hours, grinds it in a 100-year-old mill and draws water filtered through peat and rock from nearby Loch Ardnahoe. The name of the lake, and the distillery, means Height of the Hollow in Scottish Gaelic, reflecting its picturesque setting just north of Port Askaig and a stone’s throw from the Isle of Jura. It’s said that when the moon is full, the ghost of a white stallion can be seen rising from the loch. A restaurant called the Illicit Still operates on site, dishing up the likes of Macsween’s haggis and venison sausages. Ardnahoe’s arrival brings the total number of distilleries on Islay to nine.
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3. Lagg Distillery, Isle of Arran
This island, southwest of Glasgow in the Firth of Clyde, was once infamous for producing top-quality illegal whisky that fuelled a prolific smuggling trade on the mainland. Lagg’s opening in June doubles the number of (legal) whisky producers on the island. They are both run by Isle of Arran Distillers, which has been making single malts at Lochranza on the island’s north since the mid-1990s. The harder water found in this southern location, combined with the pursuit of more peaty flavours in the barley processing, means the two operations will make vastly different spirits. Two gleaming copper stills are visible through broad picture windows in the architecturally stunning visitor centre, which has a roof covered with plants that change colour with the seasons. Lagg laid down its first cask of whisky in April and only 700 barrels will be released for public sale in the first 10 years of distilling.
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4. Torabhaig Distillery, Isle of Skye
The Isle of Skye has been synonymous with the famous single malt Talisker for more than 120 years. Now there’s a rival on the scene. Torabhaig, on the southwest coast, is only the second licensed single malt Scotch whisky distillery on the island. Its first drams will become available for sampling next year, after spending the required minimum three years in barrels. The operation is housed in a historic farm, built from stones salvaged from a ruined 17th century castle. A four-year refurbishment has created a beautiful cafe, cellar door and distillery where skilled alchemists aim to produce a single malt with “well-tempered peat”. They draw water from a spring and are experimenting with a range of casks and barley.
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