Discover Trentham: Top food, art and outdoor spots in country Victoria
This little timber town combines old-fashioned heritage with a sophisticated dining and shopping scene.
This little timber town combines old-fashioned heritage values with a sophisticated dining and shopping scene.
1 Restored pub
Few pubs have a story quite like The Cosmopolitan. Built in the 1860s, the historic weatherboard has been a cornerstone of Trentham life for generations. A fire in 2005 devastated the building, leaving little behind except the facade and rare brick nogging walls. For new owner Rod Hughes, rebuilding The Cosmo wasn’t just about bricks and mortar, it was about restoring its soul. “I wanted to try and resurrect The Cosmo because it means so much to the community,” he says. Some traditions remain (like the Friday night meat tray raffle, which raises money for local organisations) but the food and wine offerings wouldn’t look out of place in a city gastropub. Expect a carefully selected lineup of local, cool-climate wines and craft beers, alongside a seasonal menu that champions regional produce. It’s a place that offers the best of both worlds; heritage charm with a menu that’s anything but old-fashioned.
2 Coffee and brunch
When Mitchell Reed Rogers moved to Trentham in the early 2000s, he was the “weird kid at primary school that wasn’t a spud farmer”. Fast-forward a couple of decades and Reed Rogers has carved out his own place, not in the paddocks but in Trentham’s food scene. Housed in the old Bank of Australasia, Trentham General is the go-to spot for its all-day brunch by head chef Michael Furness (ex-Vue de Monde), who brings serious pedigree to the menu. On offer are favourites such as house-made granola with creamy coconut panna cotta and mango foam, and eggs benedict with confit pork shoulder and house-made hash. Across the road is Mr Peacock, another of Reed Rogers’s venues, a sophisticated yet cosy wine bar specialising in vino, charcuterie, cocktails and pizza.
3 Rail trail
The Domino Rail Trail is a 6km (one way) stretch of old railway line on the traditional country of the Dja Dja Wurrung between Trentham and Lyonville. Cutting through the Wombat State Forest, towering eucalypts and pockets of pine create a canopy of green. It’s an easy track to follow, with old railway sleepers underfoot and the occasional collapsed bridge as a reminder of its past life. For something with a little more drama, stop in at Trentham Falls. The highest single-drop waterfall in Central Victoria, it plunges 32m over a basalt cliff and, depending on the season (winter and spring are when the falls are at their fullest), the torrent sends mist into the air as it dramatically crashes into the ravine.
4 Long lunch
Dining at Du Fermier feels like being invited to dinner at a dear friend’s home. Tucked down a quiet passage off Trentham’s main street, Annie Smithers’ tiny French farmhouse restaurant is a place where lunch is not just a meal, but a ritual. The ever-changing four-course menu is built around what’s in season and, as one of Australia’s most respected paddock-to-plate chefs, Smithers sources ingredients from small-scale regenerative farmers such as Brooklands Free Range Farm and Oberon Suffolk Sheep Stud. The experience is warm, slow and deeply satisfying, much like the classic French tradition wherein lunch is the most important meal of the day, and where there’s always time for another glass of wine.
5 Daily bread
If there’s one place in Trentham that truly rises to the occasion, it’s Red Beard Bakery. This beloved institution is known for its handmade wild-ferment sourdough, baked in a rare 19th-century Scotch oven that weighs a staggering 75 tonnes. Behind the sliding red doors, the space is warm and welcoming, with fairy lights, a sunny courtyard and a menu full of delicious treats, some with cheeky names, such as rough buns, nice buns and the infamous kill-a-brown-dog brownie. Seasonal ingredients are abundant, from pumpkin sourdough to poached peach Danish pastries. But the heart of the bakery is its slow-fermented sourdough, made using traditional techniques that allow the wild yeast to work its magic. The result? Expect a chewy crust, airy crumb and a depth of flavour worth travelling for.
6 Beer garden with the lot
Set amid rolling farmland just outside Trentham, the Pig and Whistle looks every bit the classic country watering hole, with its weathered facade draped in ivy and a welcoming front veranda made for lingering. It’s the kind of place where locals pull up a stool at the bar, families spread out in the sprawling sun-drenched beer garden, and live music drifts through the air on weekends. There’s a dedicated menu for kids, plenty of vegan and gluten-free options, and even space for dogs to snooze under the tables. The menu leans into hearty pub favourites such as bourbon-glazed sticky pork ribs, slow-cooked lamb shank in red wine, and a rich Sri Lankan chicken curry, while the tasty vegetarian pad Thai delivers a punchy kick of heat. Everything about the Pig and Whistle is inviting: the beer is always cold, the service is friendly, and staying a little longer feels inevitable.
7 Local gallery
Some galleries feel like hushed spaces for earnest contemplation, but Trentham Little Gallery, run by local artists, is a welcoming, light-filled former mechanics’ garage that’s become a dynamic hub showcasing everything from painting and sculpture to artisan crafts. Among the artists featured is Rose Wilson, one of the people behind the gallery, who brings a rich storytelling element to her paintings, whether in deeply textured landscapes inspired by the bush or the poignant portraits that have seen her shortlisted for prestigious awards, including the Archibald Prize. Another standout is Helen Cottle, a self-taught painter whose realist-impressionist landscapes are shaped by her fascination with light and everyday scenes. With a constantly evolving lineup of artists and exhibitions, Little Gallery is a true reflection of Trentham’s thriving creative community, which is small in size but brimming with talent.
8 Something to take home
A new store wasn’t part of the plan, but when John D’Agata spotted a sweet timber cottage for sale on a Friday, viewed it on Saturday and bought it on Monday, the idea of one last hurrah in old-fashioned retail took hold. Together with Sjaak Berg, D’Agata (the former head of jewellery for Leonard Joel) has created The House of Marcelle and Mr John, a store that feels more like a carefully curated collection than a retail outlet. “I tend to buy things I like and that are aesthetically pleasing,” D’Agata says. Inside, you’ll find mid-century paintings, handcrafted bespoke lighting from Paris, Steiff teddy bears and Heinen Delfts Blauw wall plates. It’s an eclectic, deeply personal mix, where everything is beautiful, exclusive and chosen with an expert eye.
9 Where to for wellness
Hidden away at the back of The Green Store, past shelves of sustainable homewares and lifestyle products, is a small, private room where the temperature is high, no matter the weather outside. An infrared sauna awaits, promising deep warmth and a different kind of relaxation. Unlike traditional saunas, infrared heat is said to work from the inside out, warming your core for a deep, detoxifying sweat without the oppressive steam. For 30 minutes, there’s nothing to do but sit, stretch and listen to music (via Bluetooth on my phone). Or why not customise the experience with chromotherapy lighting. It’s not just heat, it’s a full-body reset, one sweat-drenched minute at a time.
10 Where to stay
Some of the best stays are when guests can roll almost straight from dinner to bed, and The Cosmo Cottage delivers. Set within the verdant country gardens of The Cosmopolitan Hotel, this beautifully renovated three-bedroom weatherboard house is a short stroll from the hotel’s restaurant and historic stables. Inside it’s all understated luxury. Think: moody pewter-hued walls, buttery-soft Cultiver linen, alpaca quilts from Creswick Woollen Mills, and sleek, modern finishes designed by architect Marcus Roberts. Local artwork, including still life paintings by Llael McDonald and beautiful botanical drawings by hotel gardener Freya MacLaren, bring a touch of Trentham’s creative spirit. Shaded by century-old elms, the cottage is the perfect retreat for those escaping the city for a slow weekend in one of Victoria’s most charming yet relatively undiscovered country towns.
Lindy Alexander was a guest of Daylesford Macedon Tourism.
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