Cruising through the fog from Montreal to New York
There is nothing like sailing past the Statue of Liberty after a two week journey down the coast from Canada.
Like a snoring partner, the deep honk wakes me in the middle of the night. I’m not angry about it; the navigational noise stirs my sea-loving soul. It’s also the law when sailing through heavy fog to sound the ship’s horn every two minutes. The baritone blasts become Viking Neptune’s heartbeat for much of this cruise from Eastern Canada, alerting other vessels that we are safely approaching.
I step out on my balcony to witness the whiteout, and I can’t see a thing. Even when the fog finally lifts, it’s impossible to tell if this is ocean or river. The peculiarity about this itinerary is that it could be either or neither. Along the varied waterways from Montreal to New York, our 930-passenger ship sails down the St Lawrence and Saguenay rivers, on the Atlantic Ocean and through Cape Cod Canal.
Unlike a standard ocean cruise, where the view is almost endless horizon, or a river cruise that barely hits a ripple, this hybrid version is both scenic and seafaring, with the shoreline visible for much of the trip. Long stretches of calm freshwater are lined with mountains and dense forests of maple, birch, beech and pine trees. Other sections are wide and wavy enough to give a sense of ocean cruising, particularly along the St Lawrence, which forms part of the international boundary between Canada and the US.
Ships sail exceptionally slowly to protect the local marine life, especially the endangered North Atlantic right whale. Beluga, blue, minke, humpback and fin whales, white-beaked dolphins and four species of seals can also be spotted in these waters. Quietly observing the passing scenery is the best part of this leisurely cruise; with each nautical mile, nature’s masterpiece unfolds.
The two-week journey is remarkable given it takes only five hours to drive between Montreal and New York. Going the long way allows overnight stays in cosmopolitan cities, full days in historic harbour towns, and visits to small ports rich in indigenous and French-Canadian culture.
For the first two days, the ship remains docked in Montreal, allowing an extended time to explore its attractions. In the morning, the cruise line offers its first excursion (included in fares) at staggered times to keep the groups small.
A coach delivers us to the Notre Dame Basilica, a neo-Gothic cathedral with a splendid interior of gold-leaf stars on vaulted ceilings, strikingly lit in brilliant blue, and a towering 19th-century organ with four keyboards. Continuing to the Chalet du Mont-Royal, we walk to Belvedere Kondiaronk, a panoramic lookout over the city.
Back on board before sail-away, I attend the solo travellers drinks, where I meet enough fellow guests to keep me company for the rest of the trip. As the ship pulls out from the quay, we take our cocktails onto the deck to watch the departure past the Montreal Clock Tower, Canada’s tallest ferris wheel, and the Jacques Cartier Bridge.
I have dinner with two of the solo guests at The Chef’s Table, one of the all-inclusive dining options. The menu changes every three nights so you can come back several times for a different experience. Tonight’s five-course, wine-paired tasting includes an amuse bouche of sweet potato chips with apple and creme fraiche, followed by crab cake and avocado, a Moscow Mule granita, seared halibut, and a mandarin and ginger parfait.
Our first port of call is the francophone enclave of Quebec, with a guided walking tour in the Old Town. Fortified in the 17th century, this UNESCO World Heritage site is the only remaining walled city in North America outside of Mexico, distinguished by its cobblestoned shopping street, Petit-Champlain. In the afternoon I head uphill to Chateau Frontenac, a palatial hotel built in 1893 on a promontory that overlooks the river and Lauretian Mountains.
For dinner, I return to the ship to dine at Manfredi’s, which I repeat another two nights. The crispy calamari, osso bucco and seasoned rib eye are standout dishes. On other days I feast on roast suckling pig, Cajun gumbo, and sashimi freshly prepared by the sushi chef – and that’s just the food on the buffet.
A scenic sojourn down the Saguenay River leads to our next stop, where adventurous activities are offered. Passengers can choose extra-cost options such as a seaplane flight over the fjord, a high-speed ride on a Zodiac boat, or whale-watching. Aside from some Inuit and Cree villages, there are no towns due north between Saguenay and the Arctic.
The next day is spent sailing along the St Lawrence Seaway, which allows vessels to travel between the Atlantic Ocean and the Great Lakes of the Midwest. While admiring the scenery, I swim in the infinity pool, have afternoon tea accompanied by a cellist, and relax in the spa’s sauna, steam room and snow room.
Arriving in Halifax, Nova Scotia, we are welcomed by the oldest surviving lighthouse in North America, built in 1758, which sets the scene for this historic city. Halifax was established around Citadel Hill, where Fort George protected the natural harbour; the world’s second largest after Sydney. The hilltop fortress is among the stops on the hop-on hop-off bus tour. I spend most of the day at the excellent Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, and the Fairview Lawn Cemetery, where many victims of the Titanic disaster are buried.
The most captivating stretch is the route to New York as the ship squeezes through Cape Cod Canal. Passengers are thrilled by the up-close views of beautiful mansions, parks, picnic spots and seafood shacks while cruising under the century-old Sagamore, Bourne and Railroad bridges. For the grand finale, we sail under the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge and past the Statue of Liberty, before an overnight stay on yet another river, the Hudson.
In the know
Viking Cruises’ 12-night Eastern Seaboard Explorer departs Montreal on September 12, 2024. The itinerary also runs in reverse, sailing from New York on September 24, in time for autumn when the greenery transforms into glowing shades of red, yellow and orange. From $12,095 a person, twin-share, in a deluxe veranda cabin, including all dining, wine and beer with meals, wi-fi, gratuities and one complimentary shore excursion a day. An upgraded drinks package is $37 a day, which includes premium wines and cocktails.
Louise Goldsbury was a guest of Viking Cruises.
FOR MORE STORIES ON CRUISING, CLICK HERE
