Cruises to Iceland
A 10-storey plummet towards the sea is one of the many thrilling attractions on this new vessel.
It’s a blustery day just south of Iceland and the Atlantic Ocean is gunmetal grey beneath a sky full of bruised-looking clouds. Rain splatters against the window of my stateroom on Norwegian Prima and in a fit of madness I go up to Deck 18 and throw myself off the ship. Yes, you did read that correctly. One minute I’m shivering in a bitter wind, the next, tumbling at speed towards the ocean. Colours blur, there’s a flash of sea, and then darkness. Have I lost my marbles? Is this some kamikaze-style reaction to all the food eaten aboard?
Well, rest assured it’s simply a sea day aboard Norwegian Prima, NCL’s newest and swankiest ship, which is full of bells and whistles attractions. I’m trying out its Dry Drop, a squiggly 10-storey plunge that heralds the world’s first free-fall dry slide at sea. Needless to say, it’s both exciting and terrifying. And joining it are myriad other adrenalin boosters, including two glass bridges on which it feels like walking on air over water, and the fastest go-kart racetrack to be found on any liner, alongside countless mind-warping VR experiences.
I join Norwegian Prima’s maiden voyage after whirlwind touring in Iceland, where the ship is docked for two nights before setting sail for Ireland, then Portland on Britain’s south coast, followed by the French port of Le Havre. Iceland is an extraordinary place; it throws four seasons at you in a day. One moment, rain patterns those moss-freckled lava fields, then come hailstones, and finally the sun appears, sharpening the muted lunar-landscape of oatmeal greys, silvered blues and browns.
On my Landmarks of the Golden Circle excursion around the country’s most distinctive volcanoes, geysers and waterfalls, sun glints off squat white houses as we travel towards Reykjavik, the capital, with its cluster of colourful clapboard buildings and far-reaching views onto distant conical mountains. It’s hard to get your head around the harshness of life for Icelanders: all those roads that get cut off in winter; vast areas rendered permanently uninhabitable; polar bears that occasionally make an appearance, crossing over on ice currents; then the tremors and quakes experienced on a daily basis.
And yet you’d be hard pressed to meet a more cheerful community. While our chatty guide regales us with jokey folkloric stories of trolls, ghosts and sea monsters, I drink in the sight of Atlantic rollers frosting a gnarled coastline, then broiling rivers of salmon, ice-blue lakes and fields full of shaggy Icelandic horses with big-hair manes. Eventually, we fetch up at Thingvellir rift valley, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are physically tearing apart and, on this blustery day, I can almost hear nature screaming as the wind howls along a deep and narrow gash between basalt columns.
It’s hugely atmospheric, and so too is a visit to Geysir, where ghostly palls of steam dance around Strokkur, its explosive hot spring. We patiently wait while the pool belches and bubbles, eventually catapulting a plume of hot water that rises 30m towards the cold blue sky. There’s also drama at Gullfoss Falls, where we stand on a lip of rock, our ears deafened by the roar, faces dappled wet as the waterfall gushes like a rippled liquid curtain into unseen depths.
Back aboard Norwegian Prima, I set to exploring. The ship is the first in NCL’s planned series of six smaller Prima Class liners and, despite a clunky-looking exterior, it’s surprisingly elegant and upscale. Bold artwork patterns walls and restaurants, carpets are seriously squishy, and the decor carries a cool mid-century modern vibe. The statistics are mind-boggling – six restaurants and eight specialty dining venues; nine bars; accommodation for 3100 passengers; a smattering of pools, hot tubs, waterslides; and those adrenalin-boosting attractions – but it doesn’t feel hemmed in. Put that down to an emphasis on wider outdoor deck areas. I come across quiet hideaways with canopied sunbeds fronting small infinity pools; then tucked away whirlpools; and even in the neutral-toned staterooms, there are no awkward coffee tables taking up unnecessary space.
If you’ve money to flash and splash, The Haven at the top offers swish penthouses, suites and family villas. Add 24-hour butler service, private pools and individual hot tubs, alongside a spa, bars, exclusive sundeck and restaurant. Overall, it’s hugely impressive, guaranteeing luxurious ship-within-a-ship privacy.
That said, Norwegian Prima exudes upscale luxury at all accommodation levels, and the food, too, is pretty much faultless. Particularly memorable is the seafood buffet at Surfside Cafe, comprising lobster claws, spider crabs and mountains of prawns and langoustines in seemingly unending supply. The menu at Palomar is inspired by the cuisine of the Greek Islands and proves exemplary. My choice? A perfectly cooked Dover sole and. for a fellow guest, a salt-crusted baked sea bass filleted tableside. Feeling indecisive, we also share tastings of all the exquisite desserts on offer.
Our second sea day uncovers yet more diversions. I choose a visit to Mandara Spa. It’s a massive two-level marble-clad enclave with salt pool, whirlpools, intoxicating steam rooms, sauna, ice room and, best of all, an enormous relaxation lounge with heated day beds, which are snug perches from which to gaze at the cold blue ocean through panoramic windows. Less impressive is the automatic 20 per cent service charge added to already pricey treatments.
Eventually we reach Ireland and goodness it’s gorgeous. The sun has returned, accentuating what our witty guide Kieran describes as “fifty shades of green”. Cobh, where we are docked, is a bucolic island just 22km from Cork and it’s a delight, full of grand Victorian villas and tree-covered soft hills. It’s only marginally bettered by Cork itself, a lovely leafy city where time-warp stores and old warehouses either side of the River Lee mix with elegant red-brick Georgian townhouses.
At St Fin Barre, a handsome French Gothic-style cathedral built by the famous medieval-loving Victorian architect William Burges, there are colourful mosaics and wall paintings; tiny carvings of birds, squirrels and grimacing faces; and with an overall human scale that few cathedrals share. Later, Kieran walks us along pretty streets lined with historic houses and the jokes continue. “Cork is famous for its pharmaceutical industries,” he tells us. “They make Viagra … what we call the Pfizer Riser. Mind you, oysters and Guinness would do the job just as well!”
And indeed we do find oysters at the covered English Market. Trading since 1788, it’s one of the oldest in Europe and a marvel of Irish produce, from fat wheels of country cheeses, local salmon and langoustines, and crusty sourdough bread to chocolates and homemade jams and pickles. Business is brisk, and I yearn to purchase a taste of Ireland. But as the only downside of cruising, fresh food isn’t going to last for the journey home. Still, who could complain, as Norwegian Prima’s fantastic array of restaurants guarantees no passenger could possibly go hungry.
In the know
A 10-day Northern Europe: Iceland & Norway cruise from Reykjavik, departing May 23, 2023, starts at $4180 a person twin-share. Ports of call including Isafjiordur and Akureyri in Iceland; Alesund, Geiranger and Bergen in Norway; Amsterdam, Brussels and Southampton (London). Check the NCL website for offers on voyages across its fleet, including free beverage packages and 40 per cent off selected cruises.
Louise Roddon was a guest of NCL.