Cedars mount view: a secluded retreat with starry skylights in NSW
Kangaroos are a frequent sight at this 38ha property in the famous NSW wine region, with award-winning luxury villas making it hard to leave.
Down and around, and to and fro we go. The spiral is repeated so many times we lose track (and traction). Once off paved roads, it’s a winding drive in the late afternoon of a very wet day to Cedars Mount View, nestled in an idyllic bowl in the lower realms of the Hunter Valley northwest of Sydney. Our hybrid car’s sensors ding-ding-ding like a chorus of demented insects as I veer to avoid potholes on unsealed tracks, almost clip a few startled rabbits, skirt around fallen branches and yelp as a kangaroo springs unannounced right in front of us as if from a child’s pop-up story book.
This visit coincides with the aftermath of a storm so it’s not the usual arrival scenario and definitely should not deter potential visitors. Just don’t imagine a gentle rural motoring experience once off the tarred roads from Wollombi. Instead prepare for a potentially rugged but ultimately rewarding entree to a magical hideaway of rare charm and beauty.
French-born owner-operators Gilbert Ponlot and Christelle Chardin took over the 38ha property in 2020 and have augmented and redeveloped an inventory of self-contained freestanding accommodation but, wisely, on a limited scale. Gilbert laughs about the initial process of learning how to operate farm machinery and fix a water pump, plus coming to terms with the vagaries of local wildlife, such as nosy microbats. Christelle’s former career with the Accor group brings strong hospitality credentials. It might be a long way from seaside Biarritz for the energetic couple and young daughter Charlotte but their love of the Australian bushland and formidable energy is inspiring. In earlier days, as enthusiastic backpackers, they worked in South Australia’s Coonawarra vineyards and were attracted by the outdoors lifestyle down under, the unbounded sense of space, and instant connections with untamed nature. It’s not the first French connection in the region, however. Hail the legendary Robert Molines, whose multi-awarded Provencal-style Bistro Molines is a short drive away, delivering a tarte tatin that’s the stuff of legend.
The Cedars’ name harks to the trees that defined the site long ago, before its conversion to a dairy farm. Most of the cedars were felled in those less enlightened days, their timber bound for pompous public buildings. But Gilbert and Christelle have planted more of these majestic species and nectar-rich grevilleas to attract native birdlife such as honeyeaters.
There are five villas, spaced well apart so there’s no sense of intrusion. The Vue, as its name heralds, is tucked away on a grassy rise. Lorea is clad in Colorbond with a classy sandstone entrance. Astride a ridge with wide views, the Treehouse spa villa’s name says it all, and Alaia, which translates to “joyful” in the Basque language, is a split-level open-plan option with kangaroos usually in proximity. All are equipped with the latest in best-quality bedding, appliances, fittings, natural surfaces and eco-efficient power. There are even EV charging stations in each entryway. Abundant windows frame landscape views interrupted only by birds and bushland. But, with a drum roll, the star of the show is Villa Stella, the latest and largest accommodation option.
As my husband and I arrive, there’s a melodious chime of bellbirds in the red gums. I had expected kangaroos at dusk, if not appearing on an unknown cue, then at least loitering in the gloaming. “I’ll send them down!” says Christelle. And she does. A mini-mob of just two come bounding along a grassy passage from the owners’ hilltop home and pause expectantly by our gravel pathway, checking us out. It’s a moment of sheer, almost spooky, magic.
Stella’s covered deck is home to a monumental Heston Blumenthal-branded Everdure barbecue. A hot tub sits by the wooden steps. Stella is one classy gal and is perfectly accessorised. Let’s tick such coveted brands as Foscarini bedside lights and Cultiver Portuguese cotton throws. There are dozens of Nespresso pods (a world-first, in my experience), essential condiments and pantry basics include the likes of Bonne Maman conserves, Brookfarm cereals and jars of Mayde organic tea (jasmine and rose proves irresistible). Even the crockery and glassware is completely on point, and rustling up a meal here instead of dining out is definitely no cop-out.
The TV is of home cinema size, with music soundtracks as cool as Cafe Jazz (cue Manilow sings Sinatra). A double-sided gas fireplace delivers instant heat. Books on home design and interiors plus several novels are thoughtfully provided. IKOU bath products feature fragrances like delightful lemon myrtle, cedarwood and a citrusy fragonia. The windowside terrazzo stone ovoid tub in the open-plan bathroom is made for wallowing and kangaroo-spotting, while the dual shower recess is almost the size of a carwash. Hanging space is plentiful. Surfaces are in a neutral palette, gently textured, streamlined and well-considered.
Best feature, though, is the skylight dome above the king bed, which is about 2m in diameter and opened or closed by a simple switch. We keep it open, hoping for celestial sightings, but all the hospitality stars ever needed for a top rating are already present and correct.
In the know
The Cedars is at 60 Mitchells Road, Mount View. Activities such as private wine tours, including a helicopter pick-up from The Cedars, are easily arranged with the owners. Two or four-day honeymoon experiences, hot-air ballooning and horse-riding are also available. Although kitchens in all villas are splendidly equipped for DIY meals, alternatives such as campfire dining or a barbecue hamper on site can be arranged or a local chef booked for an in-villa dining experience. Full details of all villa layouts and inclusions on the website. Seasonal variations and weekend surcharges apply; from about $790 a night for Villa Alaia to $990 a night for Villa Stella, including breakfast ingredients and welcome amenities. Expect minimum-stay requirements depending on villa category and dates.
Susan Kurosawa was a guest of The Cedars and Destination NSW.
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