Castle on NSW south coast is a holiday rental fantasy
This extraordinary holiday mansion on the NSW south coast has spiritual side.
Ser Infinito Estate hunkers down on a hillside, secluded from view while presenting jaw-dropping panoramas across bushland and out to a silvery Pacific Ocean. Part fairytale castle, part Mexican villa, part architectural folly, it’s difficult to imagine any property like it in the country. Where else could you find a house with a separate wing containing a Japanese bathhouse, replete with tatami room for tea ceremonies and a tub the size of a plunge pool; or a specially designed retreat with raised meditation platform; or a secret pitch-dark tunnel for silent reflection? For the first time since it was completed in 1997, the house is being made available for ultra-private holiday rentals.
Sitting on 12ha in the lush hills behind Mollymook on the NSW south coast, the mansion was a seven-year labour of love for New Age spiritualist Stuart Wilde, who died in 2013. A British teacher, music producer and author of 20 books, Wilde was introduced to the area by his wife, Robyne, who hails from the district. The pair lived in Taos, in the US state of New Mexico, and set about creating a haven for themselves and extended family in the style of a grand adobe villa.
The exterior takes the castle fantasy and runs with it, with weathered walls (a whopping 1.5m thick), rounded corners, multiple terraces and a circular tower overlooking a spectacular rooftop saltwater pool. Whitewashed interiors contrast with chunky beams of North American oregon and terracotta tiles imported from New Mexico. Look carefully as you cruise around the seven-bedroom, four-bathroom home, and you’ll spot the occasional paw print pressed into the floors. The story goes that curious coyotes came calling one night while the freshly made tiles were drying outdoors. They left their indelible marks and the manufacturer had to inform Wilde his order had been “ruined”. Rather than start over, Wilde requested the tiles be sent to Australia regardless.
Much of the furniture is original, made in situ by Wilde’s father-in-law, including a vast timber dining table that stretches the full length of the open-plan living area. A coffee table looks like it was recycled from wharf pylons, and the rustic four-poster beds throughout feature solid tree trunks, softened with swathes of dreamy linen. So sizeable are these pieces, they can never be removed, at least not without use of a chainsaw.
Estate managing director Karim Gharbi, who also runs high-end concierge service The VIP Sydney, first stumbled across Ser Infinito when he was seeking a coastal hideaway for a celebrity client. He contacted the Wilde family and received a polite but unequivocal no.
“There was no amount of money that could have got them across to rent it,” Gharbi says. “They weren’t interested. They’re very private and the property is very special to them.”
Later, the estate was put on the market yet still the family was adamant Stuart Wilde’s legacy should be preserved. When one potential buyer presaged removing the imported ceramic tiles and sinks from the bathrooms, her inspection of the property was abruptly cut short. Eventually, it was taken on by Wilde’s sister-in-law, with Gharbi at the helm displaying his dedication to personal service.
During my stay, butler Wendy serves pre-dinner cocktails while chef Jonny Staples whips up a tea-smoked duck noodle salad, crispy-skinned barramundi and a lemon brulee tart. In the morning, Wendy is back to offer fresh pastries, fruit salad, yoghurt, juice and coffee. Would I like breakfast under the marquee on the lawn, on one of the terraces, by the pool or at the casual kitchen dining table where my newspaper awaits? I opt for an alfresco nook, draped in billowing white fabric and surrounded by pots of succulents and cactuses. Afterwards, massage therapist Kiah Butschi kneads my cares away in the sunlight on the veranda of the Japanese bathhouse as twittering birds flit about the heavily-laden citrus grove below.
While such level of personal attention would enhance any stay, it is the house itself that is most memorable. There is nothing predictable about this extraordinary abode. Magical hidey-holes are found behind mysterious doors; games of hide and seek would surely last for hours. Granite boulders protrude from the floor and walls of bathrooms. A spiral staircase leads up to the pool deck, furnished with sun lounges and umbrellas. An adobe fireplace in the master suite stands waiting to issue a flickering welcome on a chilly night. Wise words from Wilde himself, Persian poet Omar Khayyam, even Morpheus from film The Matrix, adorn walls in elegant calligraphy. Dream weavers and Native American talismans add to the spiritual vibe.
The views are a constant distraction. From the moment guests walk through the weighty wooden doors and enter the vestibule, they are drawn downstairs and on to the main terrace to gaze at the horizon. Nearby bushland is energetically sprouting after the previous summer’s bushfires, which came so close the frames of a sliding door were scorched. Further beyond, the ocean is a vivid blue ribbon. Cows low in the gloaming.
In one room, a quote from Wilde reads: “I have no plan. I make minute-by-minute my plan.”
It’s a philosphy that could be custom-made for Ser Infinito guests. Don’t plan too much. Soak up the serenity and go with the flow.
To-Do List
Dine
At Rick Stein at Bannisters, Mollymook.
See
Sunrise from the clifftop walk at Warden Head, Ulladulla.
Try
Wine and cheese at nearby Cupitt’s Estate; 45 minutes, $45 a person.
Browse
The boutiques, galleries and cafes of historic Milton.
Essentials
Ser Infinito is on Little Forest Road, Milton, about three hours’ drive south from Sydney. It is available through Luxico; from $7500 a night (minimum three nights) with 24/7 concierge. Additional services such as helicopter transfers, butler and private chef on request.
Penny Hunter was a guest of Luxico and Ser Infinito Estate.
