Cambodia river cruise: exploring Tonle Sap Lake’s floating villages
Riding the shifting waters of Tonle Sap is a journey through thousands of years of history and culture.
At 5am, the sky over Cambodia’s Tonle Sap Lake is a pale shade of lilac, with the merest hint of vivid peach and pink warming in the east. One by one, our small group carefully steps into one of the skiffs gently bobbing beside our ship. The only other signs of life in the water at this hour are dozens of dragonflies buzzing about, delicately dogging us. The temperature is still cool this early in the day, offering brief respite before the inevitable heat sets in.
Before too long, we’re cutting across the glassy surface of the lake heading southwest, the sun slowly beginning to burn up the sky. As we edge closer to dense clutches of greenery – what would normally be trees but right now, with the lake at its annual peak, look more like floating bushes – we enter a birdwatchers’ paradise. Scores of black cormorants spiral overhead, occasionally joined by a flash of white from an egret or whiskered tern.
This corner of the lake, Prek Toal Core Bird Reserve, spans 22,000ha and is one of the world’s most significant biospheres, a haven for an enormous variety of species, many endangered, such as the grey-headed fish eagle, the spot-billed pelican and vulture-like greater adjutant. After Cambodia’s wet season, which runs from May to October, the area is literally humming with life. During this period, the perennial rains that drench the surrounding delta run into the connecting Mekong River and technically “reverse” its flow, expanding the edges of Tonle Sap fivefold while water levels rise by at least 10m. This seasonal transformation makes it possible for our ship Aqua Mekong, run by luxe adventure cruise line Aqua Expeditions, to explore deeper into the hydraulic landscape of Cambodia.
Our journey across the country’s waterways began a day earlier in Siem Reap. Starting at the northern edge of Tonle Sap Lake, over the next four days the ship will sail down to Phnom Penh, with a brief detour up the Mekong River. Narath, one of Aqua Expeditions’ local guides, and an archaeology graduate from a local university, explains we won’t just be travelling several hundred kilometres to Phnom Penh. We will journey through thousands of years of Cambodian culture and heritage.
Since launching its first cruise in 2007 with a sojourn along the Peruvian Upper Amazon, Aqua Expeditions has redefined the small-ship cruising experience, venturing into the world’s most remote and ecologically significant regions. “Our boutique fleet and small group excursions allow guests an up close and personal access to views and sights that larger ships cannot get to, far away from crowded areas, with a focus on nature, wildlife and local culture,” says company founder Francesco Galli Zugaro. His vision has found a matching demand in travellers looking to tread lightly while venturing deeper into uncharted waters. Today, Aqua Expeditions’ fleet has expanded to include ships in Indonesia’s coastal waters, the Galapagos Islands, the Mekong River, and from next year, new sailings in the Seychelles and Zanzibar, Tanzania. Each one is personally scouted by Zugaro before it goes public.
Less a traditional ship and more a piece of floating architecture, the design elements of Aqua Mekong were brought to life in collaboration with Noor Design and Australian designer David Cole and Zugaro’s wife Birgit.
Interior decor draws direct inspiration from the natural surrounds of the region. Dark woods, low lighting, and decor influenced by lotus roots and lilies help create an elegant and warm environment, connecting guests with the beauty of the Mekong Delta.
“The challenge was balancing luxury with functionality on an expedition vessel, where comfort and style needed to meet practicality,” says Zugaro.
The suites are spacious, with floor-to-ceiling windows and private balconies perfect for watching the river scenery drift by. A screening room, cosy study, games room, and a lively lounge and bar area offer numerous spots to relax, while a plunge pool at the stern is the perfect way to cool off in the afternoon, cocktail in hand. Life on board is a blend of comfort and extreme pampering, with a one-to-one guest-to-staff ratio ensuring personalised service. At any given moment, on hand to help with any of your needs, there’s a staff member, whether that’s our incredible cruise director, Vuthy, or any of the service team members who operate the bar, kitchen or back-of-house. All of the F&B crew have managed to memorise not only our names but our particular palates. Not fond of coriander? Or perhaps your tastebuds run milder than standard Southeast Asian fare? All preferences have been taken care of by the chef and his team, who have happily tweaked the menu created by Michelin-starred Australian chef David Thompson.
After our daily meditation by the pool at 6am with Narath, followed by a small philosophical chat on Buddhism, breakfast kicks off at 7am. All meals are served at set times, which is a departure from the casual free-range grazing approach on some cruises. But with the quality and variety on offer, from local dishes to occasional international fare, the structure is refreshing.
I soon discover there’s the occasional surprise dish, too, when several trays of bar snacks are presented and the curious-looking crisps on one plate are actually crispy, deep-fried tarantulas. Turns out my FOMO is stronger than my arachnophobia. Hand on my heart, I can say these taste remarkably like barbecued sausage.
Twice-daily excursions offer a blend of cultural immersion and outdoor adventure. True to Narath’s word, our first two days are spent swimming – or kayaking, as it turns out – in history, with a visit to several of the region’s famous floating villages, including an over-water Buddhist temple. There are about 172 of these villages along the edges of Cambodia’s waterways, home to more than 80,000 people. Many are also home to refugees from Vietnam who make a living from fishing in the lake. When it comes to kayaking, there’s no expectation of skill level. Quite often, several of us take a slightly more scenic route through the village, but the Aqua Expeditions crew are always on hand to help steer us back on course and the smiling faces of locals as pop music blasts over speakers make the extra work worth it. There’s always the option to ride in a skiff the entire way.
Eventually, as Tonle Sap Lake ends and the river to Phnom Penh begins, Cambodia’s artisanal heritage takes centre stage. Kampong Chhnang, known as “pottery port”, is famed for its handcrafted pottery and palm sugar cultivation. Here, we meet Pha, a potter continuing a family tradition passed down from her grandmother. She creates each piece by walking around a “wheel” made from the stump of a tree, the definition of handcrafted for those who enjoy a more tactile memory of their travels.
Aside from pottery, the village has a small palm sugar production. This is taken care of by local celebrity Uncle Ry, the village’s 72-year-old palm sugar harvester, who proves age is no barrier by nimbly scaling the world’s tiniest ladder – a bamboo pole with carved footholds – to reach the treetops. Once back on solid ground, Uncle Ry shares the secret to his youthful vigour courtesy of a shot glass of his own special blend of moonshine made from distilled palm sugar that tasted like a mix of vodka but with the lip-numbing effect of kava.
For something a little shinier, our next stop is Koh Chen village, famous for its intricate, hand-etched silverware. The pieces make for stunning keepsakes or gifts. If you’re up for a challenge, the 500-step climb to the temple at Udong Mountain rewards with one of Cambodia’s most sacred sites, said to house the Buddha’s remains. For those who enjoy the history side of cultural immersion, there’s the chance to visit Cambodia’s royal palace in Phnom Penh, followed by either a moving tour of the Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocide or the National Museum of Cambodia, which houses the world’s largest collection of Khmer art.
A true highlight is our visit to Silk Island, or Koh Oknha Tey, to witness the production of Cambodia’s rare golden silk, a naturally occurring variant of the luxury textile found nowhere else in the world. From cocoon to loom, visitors can discover the entire process, watching as silk is spun, threaded and woven into the nation’s iconic krama scarfs. These versatile textiles, available in cotton and silk blends, have dozens of uses, from scarf, skirt and blanket to towels, which are handy to mop sweat if you go on any bike tours on offer beside lush rice paddies instead of taking a tuk-tuk. It’s a way to truly immerse yourself in the fabric of Cambodia.
In the know
Aqua Expeditions Mekong voyages range from three, four and seven nights between Ho Chi Minh City, Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. From $US4650 ($6987) a person for three nights. Early bird rates are available on some 2025 departures, starting at $US3255. Fares include complimentary transfers to and from designated meeting points at port of cruise embarkation.
Travel tips
A practical note on money in Cambodia: exchanging currency to riel (KHR) while in Australia is nearly impossible. You’ll need to withdraw local cash once you land, handy for smaller expenses such as street food or souvenirs in places such as Kampong Chhnang. In more established regional places and cities, credit cards are widely accepted. However, most places price in US dollars so you’ll need to do some rapid maths while handing over your riel. Downloading a currency conversion app such as xe.com will take this hassle out of the equation.
Benjamen Judd was a guest of Aqua Expeditions.
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