Blue Mountains rural retreat: Megalong Valley Station
Have a highland fling at this tranquil rural retreat away from the day-tripper throngs.
As a child visiting my relatives’ dairy farm, I was warned emphatically against entering the paddock where the property’s bull resided. It instilled in me a certain respect, if not terror, of cattle, with nightmare visions of being chased down by a horned behemoth intent on my demise.
Yet here I am, standing next to an intimidating 1200kg bovine called Wellington as the Hereford munches on lucerne and gets an affectionate scratch behind the ears. Admittedly, his love rival Napoleon is safely ensconced out of sight in another paddock. No need for any Waterloo-style conflicts here. With an abundance of heifers nearby, Wellington looks content, like he wouldn’t hurt a fly.
Glen Wellham, owner of Megalong Valley Station in NSW’s Blue Mountains, is taking us on a tour by all-terrain vehicle of the property on which he has raised cattle for the past 12 years. We’ve met the cute, fluffy Highland calves Harry and Oscar, and their dad, Snowball – “The only thing I’ve ever bought on Gumtree,” Wellham tells us – plus checked the yabby trap in the dam. The ATV has taken us up rugged hills and down dales in a fascinating introduction to country life. It’s clear Wellham, a part-time financier whose family has farmed in the valley for 40 years, feels a deep connection to the place and is proud of the progress he’s made with his 150-strong herd.
Guests at the station have two accommodation options: the sprawling Glengarry, which has generous wraparound verandas and a swimming pool; and Redledge Cottage, a cute, freshly modernised abode that is named after an old miners’ route to the Glen Shale Mine. We three gal pals make ourselves at home in the latter.
With help on the interior design from his sister, Wellham has created a rural retreat with a touch of the Hamptons. Installed on a lush lawn and surrounded by rose beds, the cottage’s timber exterior is on-trend, painted a deep ocean blue with contrasting white trim on the sash windows and balustrades. The colour scheme continues in the four bright bedrooms, several of which are dressed in fine French linen by Carlotta + Gee. There are three bathrooms, including a deep tub that promises indulgent soaks on a chilly evening. To help keep the cold at bay, a double-sided fireplace is set and ready for lighting and proves more than adequate at keeping the expansive kitchen and dining area warm, as well as the cosy lounge, where oversized creamy couches are populated with an extended family of cushions.
But we are drawn to the deck, where rattan sofas are the places to perch, breathe the fresh country air and survey the valley. At night we can see the lights of the Hydro Majestic Hotel twinkling high on the escarpment. During the day, wispy tendrils of fog creep up the rock face. There’s the lowing of cattle, visits from the odd grey kangaroo, and the occasional ruckus as cockatoos and other birds argue noisily over the heavily laden fruit trees. The orchard, which runs beside the cottage, is heaving with apricots, pears, apples, figs and plums during our visit. The bounty inspires ambitious talk of making jam and chutney, but it doesn’t translate into action, despite the kitchen being well-equipped to handle most culinary pursuits. Instead we whip up mushroom risotto and tray-baked salmon over our two nights, and sip cups of coffee on that deck.
The name Megalong Valley is derived from a Gundungurra Aboriginal word believed to mean “valley under the rock”. When Europeans arrived around the 1830s, Indigenous people had lived in the area for an estimated 40,000 years. For a few decades in the late 19th century, the region saw a flurry of shale-mining activity – the resource was used to make kerosene – but these days cattle easily outnumber humans. Compared with the likes of Leura and Katoomba, this is a tranquil corner of the Blue Mountains, where you might have to slow down while an echidna leisurely crosses the gravel road.
Hikers appear to outnumber cars, too. The 46km heritage Six Foot Track passes through Megalong Valley Station, bearing adventurers on a three-day walk from Katoomba to Jenolan Caves. On our way to taste wines at valley vineyards and to scoff fresh scones with cream and jam at the local tearooms, we see hardy types lugging towering backpacks. They look happy enough in their labours but I’m relishing the prospect of a cheese platter and a glass of pinot noir from Megalong Creek Estate.
To-Do List
DINE
On freshly baked apple pie or fruit scones with blackberry jam and lashings of whipped cream at Megalong Valley Tearooms.
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TASTE
The wines at Dryridge Estate, with its sweeping valley views to the escarpment, and Megalong Creek Estate, which serves generous cheese and charcuterie platters.
BROWSE
Collectibles at the Victory Theatre Antique Centre back up the mountain at Blackheath, and European labels at the Blackheath Family Shoe Store.
READ
Historic Megalong Valley by Mary Shaw.
themegalongvalleystation.com.au
Penny Hunter was a guest of Megalong Valley Station.
This article was originally published in November 2021 and has since been updated.